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Hunter/Gatherer
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im sure there are some threads explaining walk back tuning on here but i thought id add one more. :)

I have a Paint diagram i made so that some could see what walk balk tuning is. I have also described how to do it. ;)

I just hope someone gets some use from it and learns something. :slice:

To walk back tune...

First set up a target with a dot in the middle or close to the top in the center. You wont want to use a dot close to the side as this tuning tests the center shot of your bow.

Next place a nail or screw in the top of the target above the target dot. Then hang a piece of string from the nail so that the hanging string intersects the middle of the dot and goes to the bottom of the target. Placing a weight on the hanging end of the string helps it to stay centered in the middle of the target dot.

Now you are ready to begin the tuning process. ;)

Having your bow sight sighted in and your bows center shot set with a squaring device or paper tuned, step back to the distance of your shortest pin. Which is usually 20 yards. Shoot an arrow at the target dot. Dont worry about being slightly off.

Then step back to 30 yards and again use your shortest pin and shoot an arrow at the target dot. Again dont worry about where the arrow hits.

Repeat for 40 yards of distance.

Now you should have 3 arrows in the target. If your center shot is perfect your arrows will hit in a straight line down the target parallel to the string you hung. (See the yellow Xs in the diagram.) If thats not the case then you have work to do. Your center shot is off.

Your arrows may be in a / or \ line going down the target. If you arrow are in the / line then you need to adjust your rest 1/16th of an inch to the right. If they are in the \ position then adjust to the left. I have diagrammed this in my Paint attachment.

The red Xs are the first 3 shots. The center shot is off so a 1/16 of an inch adjustment to the left was made to the rest.

The green Xs are the second 3 shots. Center shot is still off. Another 1/16 adjustment was made to the left.

The yellow Xs are the final result. Center shot is perfect and you are ready to sight in your sight. :smile:

If anyone has anything to add please do so....






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Bonehunter
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Good post, also the level on the bow has to be set and used at all distances. Without it WB is a waste of time.
 

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Hunter/Gatherer
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good post, also the level on the bow has to be set and used al all distances. Without it WB is a waste of time.
Great point! Thanks for adding that!
 

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The only comment I have is that shooting one arrow at each distance is not enough. Minimun 3 to get a better handle on arrows sliding off right or left because of centre shot issues.
 

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How about a reverse walk back tuning?

Since you can get a more precise windage setting of your sight at longer distance this is how I do it.

Paper tune first.

Roughly sight in and work your way back to 60 yards.
Once at 60 get this pin/mark set exactly.
Go back up to 10 or 20 yards and shoot at the target using your 60yd pin/mark. The arrow will impact HIGH. Use the same adjustments. If your group goes \ with the 20 yd shot high left you will need to move your rest to the left and if it goes / with your twenty yard shot high right the move your rest to the right.

Once you have made any rest adjustments, go back to back to 60 (be careful your arrows will impact left/right of before) and re-set your windage. Come back to 20 and repeat.

This "reverse" method helps eliminate any chance it the problem is in your sight setting rather than in your rest since you get a much more precise windage setting at the longer range.
It also allows you to use 2 marks farther apart. If you were to shoot your 20yd pin at 60 you need a very large target to let the arrow drop that low, but your 60yd pin at 20 will only impact 1-2 feet high.

Mitch
 

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Im sure there are some threads explaining walk back tuning on here but i thought id add one more. :)

I have a Paint diagram i made so that some could see what walk balk tuning is. I have also described how to do it. ;)

I just hope someone gets some use from it and learns something. :slice:

To walk back tune...

First set up a target with a dot in the middle or close to the top in the center. You wont want to use a dot close to the side as this tuning tests the center shot of your bow.

Next place a nail or screw in the top of the target above the target dot. Then hang a piece of string from the nail so that the hanging string intersects the middle of the dot and goes to the bottom of the target. Placing a weight on the hanging end of the string helps it to stay centered in the middle of the target dot.

Now you are ready to begin the tuning process. ;)

Having your bow sight sighted in and your bows center shot set with a squaring device or paper tuned, step back to the distance of your shortest pin. Which is usually 20 yards. Shoot an arrow at the target dot. Dont worry about being slightly off.

Then step back to 30 yards and again use your shortest pin and shoot an arrow at the target dot. Again dont worry about where the arrow hits.

Repeat for 40 yards of distance.

Now you should have 3 arrows in the target. If your center shot is perfect your arrows will hit in a straight line down the target parallel to the string you hung. (See the yellow Xs in the diagram.) If thats not the case then you have work to do. Your center shot is off.

Your arrows may be in a / or \ line going down the target. If you arrow are in the / line then you need to adjust your rest 1/16th of an inch to the right. If they are in the \ position then adjust to the left. I have diagrammed this in my Paint attachment.

The red Xs are the first 3 shots. The center shot is off so a 1/16 of an inch adjustment to the left was made to the rest.

The green Xs are the second 3 shots. Center shot is still off. Another 1/16 adjustment was made to the left.

The yellow Xs are the final result. Center shot is perfect and you are ready to sight in your sight. :smile:

If anyone has anything to add please do so




View attachment 802889
great job simplifying it with the paint X's
 

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i thought walk back tuning was for "center shot".......
 

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Hunter/Gatherer
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Hunter/Gatherer
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
maybe i just read it wrong.....so you need to paper tune first before walkback tuning?
Paper tune or squaring device. Either one will get you close.;)
 

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Two things confuse me, one- if you papertune ands get a bullet hole, THEN move your rest in the process f walk back tunning won't your papertune then be off? I mean your moving your rest so it had to effect the tear right? Second- if your dead on at 20 and move your rest bc your shooting to the right or left back at 40, 50 etc, then you will be off at 20 right? Is that when you use windage? Little help?
 

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1: Paper tuning just lets you know that the arrow is traveling strait at the exact point when it goes through the paper. It can help you determine correct spine, contact, torque and things like that. But it is only a means to and end. Walkback tuning is a way of testing the "end" itself. What you are really concerned with is that your arrows do not drift left or right as you shoot.
Often the very minute changes you make while WB tuning will not result in any visible change in you paper tune.

2: Yes, moving your rest will change your POI at 20 but it will change it twice as much (more actually) at 40. Then you just adjust your sight to correct. If you were shooting left at 40 and you move your rest to the right you will move your 20yd impact right some, but your 40yd impact to the right about 2x as much, then my moving your sight to the right to sight back in at 20 your POI at 20 will move back to the left towards the bull a little and your 40 will move more.
 

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Hunter/Gatherer
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Two things confuse me, one- if you papertune ands get a bullet hole, THEN move your rest in the process f walk back tunning won't your papertune then be off? I mean your moving your rest so it had to effect the tear right? Second- if your dead on at 20 and move your rest bc your shooting to the right or left back at 40, 50 etc, then you will be off at 20 right? Is that when you use windage? Little help?
1: Paper tuning just lets you know that the arrow is traveling strait at the exact point when it goes through the paper. It can help you determine correct spine, contact, torque and things like that. But it is only a means to and end. Walkback tuning is a way of testing the "end" itself. What you are really concerned with is that your arrows do not drift left or right as you shoot.
Often the very minute changes you make while WB tuning will not result in any visible change in you paper tune.

2: Yes, moving your rest will change your POI at 20 but it will change it twice as much (more actually) at 40. Then you just adjust your sight to correct. If you were shooting left at 40 and you move your rest to the right you will move your 20yd impact right some, but your 40yd impact to the right about 2x as much, then my moving your sight to the right to sight back in at 20 your POI at 20 will move back to the left towards the bull a little and your 40 will move more.
He beat me to it. :)
 

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Hunter/Gatherer
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
LOL, sorry about that.
I may have just muddied the water, fell free to try and clear it up.
You did a great job! Thats what this thread is about... Good info. :darkbeer:

The spacing of my Xs verifies your point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Woulda love to try this but the only place I go to shoot is an indoor range that only offers 18m distance.
Block target outside is what i do.:D
 
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