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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When you are walk back tuning, how do you know if the sight doesn't just need to be moved? The further back you go, the more magnified your problem if your sights aren't perfectly on. So how do you know when to move the rest instead of the sight?
 

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if you walk back tune would will need to adjust your rest (centershot problem). Say you shoot at 20 yards and the arrows are in the bull but at 30 they start grouping left and at 40 they group even more to the left and at 50 even farther. Nudge your rest to the right until they group center of target. Sights shouldn't have anything to do with it.
 

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With the walkback tuning process you use the same pin regardless of distance. By doing this you are verifying your rests centreshot setting. Every time you adjust your rest you need to reset your sight for 20 yards and move back from there...
 

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Still not getting it

I am still not getting it because if your sights are on, the further back you go, the more magnified the problem. It seems to me that it could all be your sight. Almost seems that the opposite would be true - sight in at 60 yards and if it is not on at 10 or 20 then the rest is off.
 

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I am still not getting it because if your sights are on, the further back you go, the more magnified the problem. It seems to me that it could all be your sight. Almost seems that the opposite would be true - sight in at 60 yards and if it is not on at 10 or 20 then the rest is off.
Are you using your 20 yard pin at all distances? Using the same pin takes the sight out of the equation. If moving the rest is not fixing the problem, it could be a form issue or a spine issue as well...
 

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Your arrow is coming off the rest at a slight angle and the further you go back the more magnified it will be.
 

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Smilin' Bob
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I am still not getting it because if your sights are on, the further back you go, the more magnified the problem. It seems to me that it could all be your sight. Almost seems that the opposite would be true - sight in at 60 yards and if it is not on at 10 or 20 then the rest is off.
If you're missing the line at 20 (or closest reference point) adjust the sight until you do hit it.

Move your rest to get the arrow to impact on the line at the longer reference locations.
 

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http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=939376

here is how you do it. Shoot 1-2 arrows at say 20 yds, another 1-2 at 30, and so on. you use the same pin and target point for every shot. Even if you are shooting at 40 yds, use the 20 yd pin. If the arrows have a left impact pattern, move the rest in small increments to the right. And the opposite for arrows impacting right. You can actually do this without starting at 20 and going back. You can do this by shooting at 40 or whatever distance you want from the git go and making your adjustments from there. It's a pretty cool tuning process as you see results pretty quickly.
 

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I am still not getting it because if your sights are on, the further back you go, the more magnified the problem.
Nope.

A sight pin off will not be magnified with distance. If the bow is tuned and your pin is off 6 inches at 20, it will be 6 inches at 60. Otherwise your pins would not line up in a vertical line. If your group gets farther off with distance, then it is the rest and most definitely not the pin.

If you are gonna walkback tune, sight in your top pin for dead on at 10 yards and use that pin on the same dot (top of target) for all distances.
 

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This is call French Tunning.


I recently discovered my new favorite way to tune my bow - French Tuning. Forget shooting bullet holes through paper and walk back tuning, when done properly French Tuning will be easier and can be done in your basement as long as you have 10 yards to shoot.

The problem with paper tuning is that any slight variation in your hand will cause your arrow to impact the paper differently and the tear to change. Remember paper tuning and walk back tuning are just a start before broadhead tuning, once you get your bow dialed in here and it's shooting "perfect" it probably won't be perfect with your broadheads so more tuning will follow this.

I first read about French tuning on the Archery Talk Forum and after doing some walk back tuning of my own I was able to fine tune my bow even more with French Tuning. The best part is that I have 15 yards to shoot in my basement range and with French Tuning you only need 10.

The first thing you need to do is get a weighted piece of string and nail it to the top of your target or hang it from the top of your target stand. The weight will hold the string down in a perfect vertical line and this is what you will be shooting at.

Back up about 3 yards and start shooting three arrows at the string then adjust the windage (left/right) of your sight until you literally hit the string with you arrows. It is possible, but can take awhile. Once you're dialed in on the string its time to go back to ten yards.

At ten yards shoot at the string, but this time adjust your arrow rest center shot (left/right) until the string splits your 3 arrow group in half. Once your 3 arrow group is split in half by the string from 10 yards it's time to go back to 3 yards.

Again, aim for the string and shoot your arrows at it adjusting the windage on your sight pins until your arrows hit the top of the string. Once you achieve this go back to 10 yards and adjust your center shot until your group is split in half by the string. Continue this process until no adjustments are needed and your arrows will not only be flying exceptionally well, but you'll be ready for broadhead tuning which shouldn't take too much time after this.
 

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My Elk Hunting Home
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Still not getting it
Look at it this way.........say you have your 20 yard pin dead on. Then you go back and shoot from 60 yards with your 60 pin. All your groups hit about 6" left of target. If you move your sight to correct for this, the next time you shoot a 20 yard group......your group will be right of target, even though your 60 is now dead on. The only way to get the two together is to move your rest until they are BOTH the same in relation to your target point. Then you adjust your sight to bring them both on target.

The further back you shoot, the easier it is to see centershot problems. Also, you need to make sure that your bubble is level on all shots while doing these adjustments.
 

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like in these angles here (if they post). your line of sight would be the horizontal line and your arrow flight is the other. The further back you get the more distance there is between the two lines.
 

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