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Discussion Starter #1
Curious what you all do when you get a new set of arrows that are bare. I was going to spine test mine but have mixed thoughts on that whole process.

Really interested in what you have to say about this. What’s the most efficient method you have found to get it all dialed in.


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Depends on their purpose for me... My competition arrows come from Jerry at SouthShore, and when I order a set I usually also order two additional bareshafts for tuning the bow, and I shoot them all as is.

My practice arrows I may nock tune through paper, but not always; sometimes I'll just hold out a couple bareshafts for tuning at "distance" ]I use much shorter distances usually than is recommended here, but also within my limits], making sure my BSs fly close together and marking any arrows I find are not grouping like the others.

I think generally though shooting them and nock tuning gives the best results, provided form is repeatable enough to get consistent results.
 

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I normally order fletched arrows cut to my length with whatever fletching/ wrap I want from black ovis. I don’t have them install inserts because I like using heavier inserts and they don’t offer that option (yet). I’ll start by pulling the nock off and squaring both ends of the arrow. Then I’ll install inserts, let them dry, and depending on what insert in what arrow, I’ll square the insert off. My gold tip hunter xt’s have exposed inserts so they need squared again. My Easton axis have the HIT inserts so there is no need. Then I’ll screw a broadhead in and throw it on the arrow spinner to make sure it spins true.


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Have them fletched with what I like and go shoot them. I don't over complicate it. I don't shoot for big money, bragging rights or to impress anyone but myself.
 

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I buy shafts (if my shop has them) and have them cut to my length and have my choice of inserts glued in, or I will install whatever insert I prefer if the shop doesn't have them in stock. I prefer to wrap and fletch my own as I really enjoy the process. I used to spine index my arrows but I don't do that anymore. Haven't found it to be that necessary.
 

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1. Cut
2. Square both ends
3. Glue in inserts
4. Fletch
5. Shoot them
 

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Cut to length, spinning each shaft and cutting from the end with the most wobble, I think will work and square both ends and put in point and nock and bushing. Shoot through paper and turn nock to get same tear. Don’t have to be good just consistent for all the shafts. Then I shoot groups at 20 and see if I get consistent groups and then if so I will fletch. Then I will shot at a line at 30 and 60 and get a good set of marks and move to 80 and get a good mark. Then I shoot the line and see if they all group consistent and then I will get my final marks and shoot groups and make sure each shaft will hug behind the pin.
 

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After assembling the arrows (nock, vanes, points ...) I weigh each arrow and make groups with the most equal weights, I number them and finally I shoot at all distances, 30, 50, 70 and 90 meters to observe groupings and matching arrows.
 

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Buy shafts, Fletch most and leave a couple bare, cut em square em and tune to bare shafts out to 30.

Number them and shoot, If I get an inconsistent arrow I rotate the nock and see how it reacts. Bad arrows get a few x marks on vanes but I still use em, not too many arrows won’t group.


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Have them fletched with what I like and go shoot them. I don't over complicate it. I don't shoot for big money, bragging rights or to impress anyone but myself.
This is what I do. I used to go all out on everything but it got to the point it took the fun out of shooting.
 

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Square both ends of the full length shaft.

Put points in both ends and Compress the shafts with my bow press and mark the bend. (Google Dan Mcarthy doing this)

Spin to determine which side to cut off. Since I started shooting 0.001 sorted Black Eagles I rarely need to worry about this.

Cut to length.

Square the cut end or ends.

Weight sort bushings and points.

Prep and clean inside shaft for bushings.

Install bushings with a small drop of low temp hot melt.

Prep and clean inside shaft for points.

Install points or inserts with low temp hot melt.

Shoot bare shaft to determine if I need left or right offset. (Google clocking bare shafts)

Fletch, leaving some bare shafts for tuning.

Number them with a sharpie.

Shoot each one and nock tune until I trust it’s hitting correctly. I rarely ever turn nocks on this step since I started marking the bend with my press. I’m not even sure what it’s telling me but they are all marked to where they flex the same. This is controversial but I believe it makes finished arrows more consistent.

It’s a lot of steps and I usually make 24-36 at a time. Takes forever but I know when I’m done that they are as good as I can make them. And since I make so many I only have to do this once a year.


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I spine test. Mark the one that shows the weakest spine.
Cut and square.
Then I nock tune all of them some times. Some times just the one for now.
Then bare shaft tune with the weakest one.
Double check all shafts to make sure match to the one I shoot.
Then fletch.

Things to remember. My bow has has its power stroke set. This means new arrows most will nock tune to a bullet hole because bow is already set.

The advantage of having a bow set makes it easy to just chsnge arrows and tip weights.
 

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Spin em, Cut em, spine match and mark em stiff side up, square both ends, cool melt pin nock, spin test insert - cool melt em in place. Bare shaft test. Wrap em, Fletch em, Nock tune em. Enjoy.
 

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Call The Bow Rack, order my normal Easton Axis 340 / 300 Match set up [AAE Hybrid 23 4 Fletch w/ wrap]- once received - add Iron Will Impact Collars & Field Points - go shoot.
 

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Spin em, Cut em, spine match and mark em stiff side up, square both ends, cool melt pin nock, spin test insert - cool melt em in place. Bare shaft test. Wrap em, Fletch em, Nock tune em. Enjoy.
Just ordered 12 new arrows and my plan is to do this.
 

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Aluminum-fletch, cut, glue in points/inserts & "choot em".
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Depends on their purpose for me... My competition arrows come from Jerry at SouthShore, and when I order a set I usually also order two additional bareshafts for tuning the bow, and I shoot them all as is.

My practice arrows I may nock tune through paper, but not always; sometimes I'll just hold out a couple bareshafts for tuning at "distance" ]I use much shorter distances usually than is recommended here, but also within my limits], making sure my BSs fly close together and marking any arrows I find are not grouping like the others.

I think generally though shooting them and nock tuning gives the best results, provided form is repeatable enough to get consistent results.
Awesome! I keep hearing how great Jerry is. Seems like awesome guy for sure!!!


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Discussion Starter #20
Great posts everyone!!!! I like it and it’s awesome to see how you guys do it. You all are seriously great guys and thanks again for putting your techniques into the thread. This helps me and many many others.

I was all into doing all these steps but think I burnt myself out with it. Now I just want to get everything in there and just shoot. I built a spine tester and it’s prob a great way to set up an arrow but I don’t even know if it’s accurate.

So far I have done what many of you mentioned.

1. Spin tested the arrows to see where wobble is and mark ends.
2. Cut ends with arrow saw.
3. Weighed each component of arrow and arrows.
4. Put heavier components in lighter arrows and lighter components in heavier arrows. (This worked really good and all my arrows are super close regarding the total weight of each arrow).
5. Put insert, collar, bushing and nock in arrow without glue
6. Spin each arrow with all components and rotated the insert and nock until each arrow had the least amount of wobble. (This honestly worked as I was able to easily identify the positions that displayed wobble).
7. This is where I am really hoping to get your thoughts.

a). Should I bare shaft these through paper?
b). Should I put vanes on and shoot through paper?
c). Should I shoot groups of vanes and bs at 20?
d). None of the above

Now I will say this, I just got this bow and just put new cams and strings on it, so I don’t know if my d loop is in right spot, and the power stroke is prob not correct.

If you say d, please tell me what you recommend. THANKS IN ADVANCE BROTHERS!!!!!!!!!!




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