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I'm getting tired of having Gander Mountain re-fletch all my arrows. I want to start doing my own but I'm not sure what all I will need. Of course I know the arrows and vanes, plus the glue. But if I buy a Bitzenburger, what do I need. The make straight, left helical, right helical. I'm shooting a drop away rest, so I would like to try the helical, but left or right? I'm SO confused :confused:
 

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Right

I beleive that the most popular helical is right helical.

You will also need some De-natured alcohol to clean the arrow shaft and the vanes. Its is sold at most hardware stores in the paint dept. it is about 3 or 4 dollars for a quart and it lasts for years as long as you put the lid on when your done.


Rchr
 

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The jig comes with one clamp and you can buy the other. I would get a straight and a right helical. Right helical is the most common. If you plan to use feathers make sure you get right wing feathers (again, most common), you have to use a left helical clamp for left wing feathers. It doesn't matter which clamp your use with vanes.

Darrel
 

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Head to the drug store or one of the "Marts" and pick up some 91% isopropanol. Make sure you get the 91% and not the 70% rubbing alcohol. It is pretty cheap. Use this to clean off your shafts before fletching. I got the Bitz with the right helical, alcohol, vanes, shafts and some Bohning Quantum XT and after a quick read on the Bitz manual I was up and fletching.
 

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All of the above advice is good. I use Acetone instead of the alcohol. Just be sure that you wipe the excess off after you apply it.
 

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Bitz

Im jealous Doc, I didnt get the manual with mine. I got the straight clamp with Bohning 2" vanes and fletch with just a little offset. I shoot ACC's and dont use any type of alcohol. I clean them with a green scrub pad and a little comet and rinse them clean with water. I wipe them with a clean dry paper towel and let them sit for a little while before fletching them. I used denatured alcohol on my first try and some of the vanes came off. I also cleaned the vanes though and Bohning recommends that you do not clean their vanes before fletching. Everyone has their own way to fletch. I learned by trial and error as you will. Good luck.
 

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bowhunter0916 said:
Im jealous Doc, I didnt get the manual with mine.
That's just not right. If you need a manual try calling Bitzenburger Phone:888-724-5697. If they don't give it to you, let me know and I'll scan mine and send it via PDF to you. If you want an autographed copy, I'll photocopy mine and send it via the mail...just let me know who to make the autograph out to.
 

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My fletching kit:
A) Arizona E-Z Fletch (RH Helical)
B) Arizona Fastset Gel
C) whichever knife is in my pocket at the time
D) vanes, of course (my personal favorite is Vanetec)

I remove the old vanes and all of the old glue with the knife. I then wipe the glue dust off the shaft (with shirtail or on pantsleg). Although I use no cleaning fluid of any sort on the shafts or the vanes I get good adhesion on both aluminum shafts and my Bemans.

Try it the simple way first; there's no point in making things more difficult than neccessary.
 

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What are you fletching?

I use Flex Fletch vanes and for these I use denatured alcohol on both the vane and the shaft. A friend of mine just recently decided to fletch these without cleaning them and they were falling off very easily.

If you are using Bohning vanes then you do not want to clean them with anything. Bohning recommends that you use an SOS pad or even "Simple Green" to clean the shafts. Bohinngs plastics are so tough now that they use a chemical on them (an accelorator) at the factory to help with the glueing. So cleaning the vane would actually work against you.

Most brands of vanes out there tell you what to use and what not to use on their products, they put those recommendations on their for a reason. Play it safe and follow the recommendations.

Rchr
 

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Doc said:
Head to the drug store or one of the "Marts" and pick up some 91% isopropanol. Make sure you get the 91% and not the 70% rubbing alcohol. It is pretty cheap. Use this to clean off your shafts before fletching. I got the Bitz with the right helical, alcohol, vanes, shafts and some Bohning Quantum XT and after a quick read on the Bitz manual I was up and fletching.
I think most of us started fletching because we had to for some reason or another.

I agree with everything Doc said. I am falling in love with Bohning Blazers and Fletchtite-Platinum. I would use it instead of the Bohning Quantum XT because it is cheaper and is going to give you more working time if you makes a mistake. Since you are on a learning curve, you will make mistakes. The Patinum takes about 5 minutes of clamp pressure. The Platinum sticks well to the shafts and especially the fletching, but can be easily removed with a dull knife or potato peeler. I would save the Quantum XT super glue until you have more fletching experience. It is a great product for the rest of the arrow's consturction.

If you use left helical on arrows with screw in points, the points will loosen more. Right helical help keep the points screw in.

Enjoy your new hobby!!!!! :)
 

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Deezlin said:
I agree with everything Doc said.
You are definitely a smart man :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the advice. Time to get the checkbook out! BTW, I'll be using Blazer 2" vanes on Gold Tip Pro Hunters.
 

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birddog1 said:
Thanks for all the advice. Time to get the checkbook out! BTW, I'll be using Blazer 2" vanes on Gold Tip Pro Hunters.
I think you will like the Blazers. I'm shooting them on my GT Ultralight 22s and they work fine. I think I've picked up a little speed also.
 

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Me Too!

Birddog,

I just got a Bitz with a right helical clamp. This will be my first attempt at fletching since my archery clas in HS (back in the 70's! :eek: ) I bought Goat Tuff adhesive based on recommendations here. I'm thinking of experimenting on my Super Carbons before I try putting 2" Blazers on Gold Tip Pro Hunters.

Bernie at Bitzenburger faxed me the manual. (Thanks for the phone number, Doc!) It's only 4 pages long, so don't expect a lot of detail.

I'm thinking of doing the spray enamel cresting because it adds almost no weight, and should make it easier to remove fletching when it is time to.
 

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did it!

Agent Zero M said:
Birddog,

I just got a Bitz with a right helical clamp. This will be my first attempt at fletching since my archery clas in HS (back in the 70's! :eek: ) I bought Goat Tuff adhesive based on recommendations here. I'm thinking of experimenting on my Super Carbons before I try putting 2" Blazers on Gold Tip Pro Hunters.

Bernie at Bitzenburger faxed me the manual. (Thanks for the phone number, Doc!) It's only 4 pages long, so don't expect a lot of detail.

I'm thinking of doing the spray enamel cresting because it adds almost no weight, and should make it easier to remove fletching when it is time to.

Made up 1/2 dozen fade crested GT XT hunters this past weekend. Painting it was a breeze. I forgot to clean 1 vane (FF) and it showed up the 1st day shootin'. So now I'll find out how easy it is to remove the cresting.

I think you need a acrylic enamel. I used a regular enamel (R.O.) which may be harder to remove. I'll find out tonight.
 

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bitz

I have 2 older models. One straight ansd one right. I use mainly the straight with a hard right off-set on F-F 418 vanes. A 4" vane with a hard right off-set seems to work real well.

Now when I start fletching the wifes arrows I'll be using shorter vanes and a right clamp.

I finally have almost everything for my arrow building department. :D
 
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