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P#NW045
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I have been told a few different lengths. So how far should you shoot from when you paper tune?
 

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Their may be several different responses to this question. If it works for you stay with it. That being said, I always shoot thru paper at 6 feet. After I get the bow shooting perfect holes thru paper at 6 feet I then proceed to walk back tune from there.
Hope this helps, It's worked for me for many years.
 

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I try for 10ft., 12ft., and 15ft., so I can be sure I am not catching the arrow as it flexes straight and gives me a false read. Good luck.
 

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I use 10 ft to give the arrow time to give me a good read on how far out it may be. I make adjustments to get a bullet hole at this distance and when successful check it at 25ft to make sure it is still straight. If it is straight there too then i am done. If it isn't I need to check for fletch contact issues and rule them out. I recheck at 10 and then 25 again. If I get a bullet at 10 ft but not at 25 you may have timing issues or poor nock travel or excessive cam lean. This can happen and make the arrow nock high at 25ft because most rests have no support on the top of the arrow and will then tune nock low. Most bows with poor nock travel will push the arrow down into the rest with will cause the bow to tune nock high. If you are having problems getting a bullet hole at 10 ft it is not the end of the world. You need to make sure you get a good hole at 25 ft and then shoot a 3rd distance at aprox 40 ft to make sure the arrow has straightened out and stays straight. If the arrow is not stabilizing you should get the opposite tear at 40ft indicating the arrow is fishtailing. You then need to look further at arrow spine and if you have cam lean. Fot chronic right tears at 10 ft you may need to add a few twists to the right side of the yoke. do the opposite for left tears. If this fails make sure you are not pressing the bowstring too tight to your face and grip placement or torquing the bow. I then will make small adjustments at long range group tuning. Most often I don't need to mave the rest any further at all. Keep in mind that you need to be confident in your shooting abilities for this step.
 

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3 feet, 8 feet and 15 feet. When I can get perfect bullets at those three distances windage is often on all the way out to 80 yards.
 

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3 feet, 8 feet and 15 feet. When I can get perfect bullets at those three distances windage is often on all the way out to 80 yards.
I do the same as buckfevr but I add on 25 ft as the final. As previously mentioned, french tuning and walkback tuning should be done next and are just as important if not more important than paper tuning. Finalize the tuning with broadhead tuning.
 

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I always start at 3 feet. Any closer, and you'll gat a bad tear all the time and it will drive you crazy.
 

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3 feet because you want to know what the arrow is doing right as it leaves the bow. Any further and the fletching has had time to correct the arrow flight.
 

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paper tuning is the only true way to "see" arrow flight. Shoot through paper at 3-4 feet initially to get a slightly high/left (1/4-1/2" tear) for right handed shooter. This has been proven to be the very best pattern for accurate arrow flight over the years. A bullet hole at this range is usually/almost always a somewhat critical setting that may yield occasional erratic arrows because of a less than perfect release causing vane strikes.

Then, strive for a bullet hole at 15 feet and re-check at 30-45 feet for the same bullet hole. A minimum of three readings is essential to ensure that you are not seeing a tear from an arrow that is flying erratically, but simply happens to be straight at the particular range you are testing.

Follow this by group tuning to make minor adjustments for the final settings. Walk back tuning or french tuning is useful if your groups change windage at differering yardages.
 

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As close as possible to the paper, I get it to shoot a bullethole and my fp/bh hit the same to 80yds, I never had to walkback tune, I dont even bother at 3ft or further out, I take off my stab and hold as close as poss and never had any issues, I also shoot fixed blade and do the extra work to get them perfectly straight, no wobble, spin everything etc.
 

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you need to have good tear at 2, 5, 8 yards... and that's the least testing you need to do.
 

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FITA pro is wrong. One distance is useless and arrows do show a true flight pattern tendency at 3'. If he is a recurve shooter, then paper tuning is probably not the best method for him anyway.
 

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Bringer of truth
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9 feet is the max i.m.o

6 feet is the min

I am usually about 8 FEET from the front of the bow to the paper.
Had to go down and measure it.

Just the way it works out in my shop.
 

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Its best to make adjustments at the distance your tears are the worst. It is at this point that you can make the finest adjustments and get the best results. Generally 3ft wont tell you much. It will tell you which way it is tearing but not how severe. You can have a tear that looks good at 3 ft but checked at 8-10ft it may still be severe and show you need further adjustments. I have seen the reason most people ( not all )don't believe in paper tuning that have tried it is they don't know how to do it efficiently and give up or they have such poor form that they can get anything to fly well. Huntmaster I agree that 6-9 ft will work most of the time but you need to check further back because a small % of bows will still have problems after that. If you never checked backed farther you would'nt know if you had one that still had an issue.
 

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I have always paper tuned as close to the paper as I can get then at 20 yards. If its a bullet hole at both distances Im good to go.:)
 

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It is very possible to have a tear that looks good at 3 ft and is actually tail left 1" or more at 15 ft but straightens out and goes through the paper good at 20 yrds. Shoot back farther and you may see it fishtailing or porpoising.
 
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