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I have been using Fletch Tite Platinum but I am out at the moment and I am using Goat Tuff until I get omething else. I don't like Goat Tuff because it is basicly super glue and I really don't care for Fletch Tite Platinum because I want something that dries faster. What do you use? I know all about Fletch Tape. I have several rolls of it. Right now, I want to use glue.
 

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I have been fletching arrows for many moons. Admittedly, over the years I did briefly experiment with other fletching glues but always returned, and shall remain, with the old standard; Bohning Fletch-Tite.

I did try the Bohning Platinum, but it has "super-glue" properties and I did not like it. When fletching arrows, fast drying and hard adhesives that contain cyanoacrylate (super glue) is, in my opinion based on experience, not good for several reasons....at least it was not for me.

When fletching arrows, fast is not good; whether it be applying the fletch or the drying time of the glue.

Adhesives that dry slow are generally stronger long-term, and the glue will not crack or crystallize with age as fast-drying glues commonly do, especially cyanoacrylates. Two seasons past, I pulled out 2 dozen of Easton aluminums from the mid-60's and 70's. The fletch and the glue was as solid as they day they were fletched...with Bohning Fletch-Tite.

No matter how long you have fletched, you will sometimes flub. A slow drying glue allows you ample time to correct the flub. When I experimented with super-glue and Bohning Platinum, there was no room for a mistake. I did goof a couple of times and had to scrape the glue rather than just wipe it away with acetone.

You should always wipe the valleys between the fletching clean of any excess. I could not do so with the cyanoacrylates. I had to scrape the valleys.

Every so often a shaft will need new fletch, or maybe you will want to refletch a set. When I decided that I did not like the super-glue for my fletch, I refletched an entire dozen. I had to scrape and sand so much, I was concerned that I was scraping and sanding down some of the thickness of the shaft.

I use a Bitzenburger jig. With the standard Bohning Fletch-Tite, I wipe the clamp edges clean with acetone. The Platinum dried so fast and hard, I had to scrape the clamps with a knife. Anyone that uses Bitzenburger will tell you how soft the metal is on the clamps. A couple of times when trying to remove the Platinum from the clamp edges, some metal was scraped away.

Using the standard Fletch-Tie, I can do a dozen of 3-fletched arrows in an hour to an hour and a half. I have shot them after a few hours of drying time, but prefer to all them to dry for a full day.

If you do use a glue that contains cyanoacrylate, don't get it on your nocks and do not let the fumes bathe the nocks. Cyanoacrylate will destroy soft plastics. If a nock turns dull white or gray, that nock is destroyed. Dry your shafts nock down so that the fumes dissipate away from the nocks.

Not telling you what to use. You brought up a good subject to cover.
 

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I don't build my arrows (yet) but for the occasional fletching fix (when a feather is partially pulled off, yeah, I know your supposed to use a jig for this but they were just practice arrows and they worked just fine) I use Fletch Tite. Works great.
 

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AKM,

I haved used Goat Tuff. It woked well for me but I think that it left a lot of white residue. I tried Fast Fletch and I was liking it better than Goat Tuff but the pointed applicator top broke off when the bottle was still pretty much full so I ended up wasting about ten bucks.:angry: I used Fletch Tite Platinum on my last arrows b/c of this. It had been in my box for a long time and I never used it b/c I thought it would take too long to dry. It worked well but you did have to wait at least ten minutes or more. I read a post on here a long time ago from someone who used Fletch Tite Platinum. This person said to get it to dry quicker he put the fletching on so that it was set on the shaft then immediately pulled in off for a second or two then put it back. He claimed that this made it dry quickly. I have not tried it and probably won't but it is an idea.

By the way, I am still waiting on news strings for the Kodiak Hunter that you helped me out with but I have shot it with a string of equal length form another recurve and I was very happy with the way it shot. It was loud but I will work on that when I get the new string.
 

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I have been using Fletch Tite Platinum...
Yep, this what I use and have been satisfied with the results.
 

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I use Duco on my wood shafts and I use Goat tuff on my Carbon shafts....
 

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Adhesives that dry slow are generally stronger long-term, and the glue will not crack or crystallize with age as fast-drying glues commonly do, especially cyanoacrylates. .

Look at the Gorilla ("Impact Tough") Super glue

Great stuff!

Anyone that uses Bitzenburger will tell you how soft the metal is on the clamps. A couple of times when trying to remove the Platinum from the clamp edges, some metal was scraped away.
Try some silocne impregnated "Jig Release Tape"

Again, Good stuff!
 

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Contact Cement.... can be messy if you're not careful, but I guarantee you'll never lose a feather..... :grin:

:cool: :beer:
 

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aluminums-fletchtite
carbons-fletchtite platinum
With wraps-feathers-platinum
With wraps- vanes- one of the superglues
Fletchtite is easy to cean off the shaft when I refletch them so thats why I use it if glueing directly to the shaft. Superglue is a pain in that reguard. But I will use it if I'm using wraps.
I just prefer the non superglues for feathers.
 

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I've been using Saunders NPV Arrow Mate with no complaints on carbon shafts.

I missed my 3D whitetail target last night and put an arrow (three-fletched with 5.5" Gateway Mags) through the side of my doghouse... Texture 111. It penetrated to about half-way up the flectching. I figured I'd be refletching that one after I got it out. Nope! Pulled it through intact.
 

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I like the old FletchTite better than the newer Platinum for aluminum arrows. I still use Duco Household on woodies with regular lacquer, not Bohning lacquers which are MEK based and are best when used with FletchTite. Duco is acetone base as is regular lacquer. I've tried a number of different glues for carbon and they all seem to work. I found Goat Tuff to be too watery and often glued the feathers to my clamp. Black Widow Spider Goo Thick is pretty good stuff. My favorite is the AAE gel - can't remember the name right now. It's pretty fast and doesn't slop around like Goat Tuff. I just read in another thread that LocTite superglue is really good and will probably try it next.
 

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If you don't want that tape, I'll take it off your hands. It's all I use for feathers over wraps.
 

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I meant to tell you that I have only used the Goat Tuff on Carbons where it worked well and I got the white residue. I only used the Fast Fletch on Carbons and liked it better than Goat Tuff.
 
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