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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

As we approach indoor season, I've decided to change some things up and start using some larger diameter arrows. I'm a olympic recurve archer that currently shoots 570 ACE's, 100 gr. points. I shoot 42lbs on the fingers, and my draw length is about 27.5 inches. My ACE's are currently a little over 28."

I've been trying to look up the different options for the x7 Eclipses, and I'm very new to the Easton aluminium sizing system. I would like to get as large of diameter possible (no more than 23's) but not too stiff that it won't tune out of my bow. The Easton spine chart recommends I should shoot a 2014, but I'm wondering if the 2114 or even the 2212 would work? Also, does playing around with point weight have a greater effect on tuning aluminium arrows than it does tuning carbon/aluminum arrows? Thoughts?

-Allen
 

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Lowered expectations
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2014 at 28”, might be a bit stiff. If you can cut them a bit shorter than your DL, 1914 at 27”.

But if you’re a bit flexible, you might consider Platinums in 2013 at 28”.
 

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what style shooting?

If shooting barebow, you could go longer to get a weaker dynamic spine. Along with heavier points and feathers instead of vanes, you could potentially get a larger shaft to fly pretty nice. You could use "screw in points" which might afford you 125 or even 150 grain points.
 

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There are many threads on if it's worth it to go to fat arrows indoors. You should read those if you haven't already.

If you want max diameter arrows.......

You can't get 23xx X7 arrows anymore. Technically, you can get the silver X23 in a few wall thicknesses. If you must (like me) have black arrows (easier for me to see shooting BB), the 2214 are not a bad choice. I've become fond of using inserts and screw-in points as tuning is simpler than adding weight to Nibbs. Indoors, I use the 2214s left pretty long (31.5" arrows with my 28.5 draw) out of my BB rig with inserts (23gn?) and 150gn points at ~35# otf. Very heavy arrows that get my point on much closer to 18m than my outdoor sticks. Your higher # would want a shorter arrow (or lighter point), but shorter draw than mine would go back the other way. Tempted to suggest you start with ~30.5" 2214 arrows, inserts and 125gn points and finetune from there via shortening arrows or 100gn points if weak or heavier points if stiff.

Another option is 475 spine Superdrive23 carbon arrows with the adjustable weight points...again, left a bit long then tune with point weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't have too much flexibility with arrow length as I do have a clicker to worry about (olympic recurve). Can't leave them super long.

My philosophy has always been better slightly stiff than weak....weak is bad. Still have room to crank in the limbs a bit too, which I plan on doing gradually anyways...

Also, any differences with tuning for a bullet point vs a nibb point?
 

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Many people use stiffer/fat shafts left long and use an extended clicker such as the AAE magnetic clicker that attaches to the sight extension.
This^^^^. I played this game with the Oly bow as well. That said, I think either my fat arrow tune was off or the longer fat arrows with heavy points aren't as forgiving. For oly, I am now in the camp of "just shoot the outdoor arrows year round"
 

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Yup. Giving up tune/forgiveness over diameter for a possible line cutter, was never a good idea in my mind. if I give up forgiveness, usually an "OOPs" ends up in a 5 or 6 ring where well tuned smaller arrows will get more 9's and 10's and oops arrows will generally still be 9's and 8's. Net was usually loss of points going to a fatter arrow for me and most of my friends that were playing that game long before NFAA put the 23xx limit on arrows.
 

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actpt -

IF the 570s tune, you'll need 1914s. However, considering I'm using about the same rig, with a slightly longer draw, I think you might actually need 1816s, but they don't make those in X7s anymore. I would expect the 570s and 1914s to tune stiff.

Viper1 out.
 

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Shootin and Cussin
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So, the new SuperDrive 23 go down to a .470 spine. You could get a set of them with the adjustable point system and load up the front a bit.

That should do what you want.
 

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You have ACE arrows …...work on form. Fat arrows can deflect as well as cut lines. Something to think about!

LAS has PDP points to point weight the X7 & XX75 arrow choices. If you buy some , don't go weak. Use the point weight system to break the spine of a 1816,1914 or 2014 to fit the poundage you prefer to shoot. The 1816 Platinum plus will be the strongest wall requiring less arrow straitening due to the added wall strength. 13 wall thickness is not a good idea unless you shoot spots.


I haven't shot the Superdrive23. I cant help but wonder how much point weight it would take to break that .470 spine to your needs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
actpt -

IF the 570s tune, you'll need 1914s. However, considering I'm using about the same rig, with a slightly longer draw, I think you might actually need 1816s, but they don't make those in X7s anymore. I would expect the 570s and 1914s to tune stiff.

Viper1 out.
Actually, i just got a new string and after I shot it, my ACE arrows are tuning weak now, but just haven't cut them. I think 21's or 22's are out of the question now...but maybe 20's? Too bad they only make them in a 2014...
 

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actpt -

With all due respect, there's either something "non-standard" (read: wrong) with your set up or your form.
Problem is that we can't see you from here.

If you believe the 570 are weak, and you can't adjust for it with the std tuning parameters, then you may need 2013 or 2014s.

Viper1 out.
 
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