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Shooting my recurve setup, Hoyt Helix, W&W Winex limbs, long 30#. ACE's 28 1/4" long. (this is length to outside edge of riser), Beiter clicker. Majesty string, cavalier plunger and rest. Cavalier tap with ledge and finger seperator. Do not want any thing left out of the equation. What will I need to work up to, to be able to shoot 90 meters? When I first starting shooting the recurve, started up closer to 40#, that really did a number on my shoulder and neck, took some time off got the 30# limbs and am loving this indoor at 20 yards. Got till next summer in Colorado Springs to get there?
Thanks
 

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probably 37+ pounds on your fingers
 

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I have a very similar setup to you, and I only needed 34# winexs to hit 90 with the sight only one screw in. Oh, I was also shooting X10's so they are a little heavier, so you should be able to do it with a little less weight.
 

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anson said:
I have a very similar setup to you, and I only needed 34# winexs to hit 90 with the sight only one screw in. Oh, I was also shooting X10's so they are a little heavier, so you should be able to do it with a little less weight.
Eye to jaw distance is a key factor Anson.
 

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Consider a number of distance enhancing tricks: String with fewer strands and very light nock point(s), very light point weight and very light vane weight, raising up the shelf on your tab. After sustaining an injury, I was forced to drop significantly in weight and went to a 10 strand string with served nocks, 70 gr points on ACE 670 (lightest shaft/inch), smallest white SpinWings, and used a separate tab with shelf all the way up for 90m. I was able to reach 90, but the results were less than stellar-any wind played havoc with the arrows.
Suggest you try to go up a bit from 30# and get the fastest limbs you can (Winex or maybe Fx).
 

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It's all theorectical until you try it. As Jim C indicates, much depends on your personal makeup and as engtee say, the the gear you select. With that light a poundage, you are obviously working on the edge.

The only way to know is to give your setup a shot and see if the arc is acceptable.
 

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The best way I have found to "cheat" to get 90 meters is to carry two tabs. Both with shelves, and use one for 90 meters and another for all other distances. The 90 meter tab can have the shelf extended all the way up.:wink:

I can reach 90 with 33# in this manner...and I need keep lower poundage....I have pins in my left shoulder and I just cannot handle 40#:sad:
 

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Shelf?

Sorry to hijack this thread, but how does the tab affect your shot? I have heard that KSL recommends no shelf on the tab.
Just curious.

Canjapan
 

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Canjapan2003 said:
Sorry to hijack this thread, but how does the tab affect your shot? I have heard that KSL recommends no shelf on the tab.
Just curious.

Canjapan
Absolutely true!

Some coaches don't like the shelf, others do. I've tried both ways, and find I am more consistent with the shelf.
 

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Recordkeeper said:
The best way I have found to "cheat" to get 90 meters is to carry two tabs. Both with shelves, and use one for 90 meters and another for all other distances. The 90 meter tab can have the shelf extended all the way up.:wink:

I can reach 90 with 33# in this manner...and I need keep lower poundage....I have pins in my left shoulder and I just cannot handle 40#:sad:
back when I was a kid, some shooters had a rubber block or a small piece of dowel rod they would bite in their teeth. Did the same thing at 90 as raising the ledge

another trick is putting the sight on the face of your bow (ie between the riser and the string)
 

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limb length

Since you'll be buying new limbs anyway, I'd go to medium limbs (68" setup on a 25" riser). I shoot about 28 1/4" as well, and find the medium limbs comfortable (no finger pinch or stacking that I can detect). They should a bit quicker than the longs.
 

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Canjapan2003 said:
Sorry to hijack this thread, but how does the tab affect your shot? I have heard that KSL recommends no shelf on the tab.
Just curious.

Canjapan
The tricks that Jim C and RecordKeeper are describing lower the apparent azimuth of the bow for the 90m shot. By raising the tab shelf or using a bite-stick (which opens your mouth), you lower the position of your knock-point relative to the arrow tip. This allows you to take a longer shot without angling the bow in a way that renders your sight useless. Jim C's trick of reversing the sight has the same effect.
 

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This works for me...

This past summer I was shooting 35# on my fingers 29 1/2" long X10 700 spine. With 100 grn points, 1 3/4" Kurly Vanes, Beiter in/out nocks. This was with G3 limbs. Not know as the fastest limbs on the block. I've since switch to Winex 36# on my fingers, but I'm shooting my indoor arrows now. I cannot wait to test these limbs outdoors. That will have to wait until March of next year.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
 

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Just to give the opposite end of the spectrum, because eye to anchor does make a big difference, #43 on the fingers and my sight bar was all the way in and only had maybe 1/2" of clearance between the arrow and aperture and I was able to hit middle at 90m. I was worried half the time my arrow is going to hit the aperture and then explode during my shot half the time to be honest and my tab shelf was raised as much as it was (standard Cav tab and shelf). I'm considering going to a thicker / bigger shelf just for this reason alone.

Short draw length (26 inches) coupled with a very short eye to anchor distance (having a fat squat face) made shooting 90 for me always difficult. I've never been able to get away with anything under #42 on the fingers. Like Jim did say, everyone is different though.
 
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