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what would cause arrows to go RIGHT ??

47K views 34 replies 17 participants last post by  stuckbuck  
#1 ·
hey guys, for the life of me i cant figure out why my arrows are going to the RIGHT:BangHead: !! ive been shooting indoors for the past 2 months with it happining on and off but not too bad for the most part ... now today i was shooting outdoors and my arrows at 30 yards are going 3 to 4'' to the RIGHT !!:angry:.... could this be draw lenght issues ?
thanks
 
#11 ·
hhmmmmmm that could be it .... i use a back tension release so i might be grabbing/pushing the bow to the right after the shot ... i have a finger sling somewhere so might haave to give that a try .. not to brag but yesterday when i was shooting indoors i was hitting a quarter size dot at 30 yards .... now today i cant hit a 4'' circle:noidea:.. i have my first outdoor shoot tomorrow and not real happy with things right now !!
 
#9 ·
Number your arrows. See if it is one specific arrow that is always throwing you off. Torque might be also. Also what effect is the wind having on your arrow when you are outside
 
#33 ·
Going from indoor to out. Shooting under lights makes everything different.
I'm gonna say its this or torquing. If I sight in inside the shop it will not be on outdoors. Not enough to miss a deer but noticeable with the grouping.

Every once in a while I will torque some and group one way or the other slightly. I usually leave it and test a couple sessions before moving. It is easy to slightly torque once you line up the bubble and transition back to concentrating on the target. I have lined the bubble and started to concentrate and look back at the bubble and I moved a tad.
 
#13 ·
it was breezy but not to bad, not enough to push my arrow 3 to 4 '' at 30 yards ... just checked all my arrows and they spine great !! im shooting a 2011 hoyt carbon matrix 27 1/2 dl - 56lbs . arrows are carbon express CXL PRO 250s with a 100 gr glue in tip and pin bushings with 2'' vanetec vanes .. arrows are cut 27'' carbon to carbon and total weight is 304 ....
was thinking about getting some cxl 150s ... but dont know if they would be to weak..
 
#16 ·
I was having an issue last year where the longer I was in the shot (I shoot back tension) my bow hand was rotating right causing the bow to cant to the right. May be hand placement or DL. I have never had the problem before so I too was trying to determine what was causing it to roll right after I had checked my bubble and was really bearing down on the shot.
 
#17 ·
it might be lighting, but hard to believe my arrows would go that far to the right because of lighting .. i make sure my peep and sight housing are perfect before i start pulling thru my shot ... its the indian behind the bow im sure but wanted to see what others had to say ....
 
#19 ·
Have someone video your bow as you pull through the shot. Video your hand and video the top of the bow. You can eliminate your hand torque before and after the shot by looking at the video (certainly if you are grabbing the bow you will see that). It doesn't take much of a cant to slide an arrow 3-4" to right. See if video will show whether bow is staying plumb after your initial check of things.
 
#20 ·
*** update ,,,,, i shot my bow thru paper at 4ft just a slight nock high... went to 12 ft and i have a sick looking tear !! its 1 1/8 nock hight!! shot it 8 times and it was the same everytime:thumbs_do ..... there was NO left or right tear just a perfect 1'' tear (nock hight) !! so should i move my rest up or is it and arrow issue ???
 
#21 ·
3-D

I checked out your setup on Archers Advantage. It shows you are shooting a marginally stiff shaft. That said you should be able to shoot it if you get everything setup just right. I would raise your rest to see if that gets the high tear out although a little high left is OK on what I read and hear. You can improve the spine by going up a couple of pounds on your bow and increasing point weight to 120-130 grains.

I show your speed should be in the 285 range so the adjustments I suggested would keep you at 283 fps (58#/120 grain points)

I don't think this will change an inconsistent 3-4" miss to the right though. Other than the suggestions above, have you French tuned or wak-back tuned your bow to make sure your rest center shot is in the proper position. Your paper tune would imply it's close I believe.
 
#22 ·
thanks bud for running #ers on my setup :thumbs_up ... i kinda figured i was to stiff ... i screwed my shoulder up few weeks ago and had to turn it down to 56#s. i might have to drop more weight because its still giving me some troubles.. the bow was shooting great at 59#s with that arrow .. even if that arrow is on the stiff side that bow should still shoot good.. im thinking about getting some cxl pro 150s and see if they spine out better.. i dont know what to do at this point .... im gonna move the rest up some because that tear is sad looking..
 
#23 ·
I checked the 150's and they looked weak. If you want to PM me, I will run some different scenarios on Archers Advantage and email them to you. It provides a list of optimum spines arrows for that setup that I can send you. I still suspect it is form and not spine but everything you eliminate is something youbdon't have to worry about.

I am shooting a stiff arrow because I am in-between shaft sizes but I bare shaft tuned my bow and it shoots great but I still have this tendency for the top of my bow to roll right after I have initially leveled it causing a right miss at longer yardage.

Another note, in order to get my bare shafts to hit in the same spot and square to the target, I had to untwist the split cable a bit on right side. I could not achieve the bare shaft tune with the rest alone. The right side of the split yoke (Hoyt AlphaElite) comes from the factory with more twists to eliminate cam lean. Shot bullet holes through paper with a bare shaft at 4' but did not impact with a fletched arrow at 20 yards and would not with rest adjustments alone. Just an FYI.
 
#24 ·
How would a tail high tear affect your left right impact? I thing it is an anchor point issue. Especially if your shoulder is hurt. You are favoring that side while at full draw, and something has changed. Bulky clothes can affect your anchor and forward grip more than you think.
 
#25 ·
I know the high tear isnt throwing my arrows to the right ... i just wanted to paper tune just to make sure i wasnt getting contact with anything . but while i was paper tuning i found the hight tear so thoiught i would fix that ... the arrows going right can be my anchor point or the bulky cloths .. the shoulder that was bothering me is my bow arm, it does hurt but i still shoot good for the most part with it ... it dont bother me all the time..... after i shoot about 30 to 40 arrows is starts to act up on me ...
 
#29 ·
thanks guy !! it was just strange i was shooting great indoors then i shot today outdoors and my groups were a mess !! i think it was a combination of the bulky cloths and slight breeze we had today ... i think i might have been forcing the shot and not following thru the proper way :rolleyes: . i did however get it paper tuned perfect at 3,6,9, and 12 ft =0) had to move my rest up just a little over 1/8 inch ..
*****thanks again to ALL that helped , i really do appreciate it !!! ***** have a great weekend
 
#32 ·
I know what you are doing... You say you are rushing your shots and you are pulling into the shot and your lowering your anchor point and into your face...
so next shot you take make sure your peep and scope housing are aligned when the shot breaks... This is what I do when I all of the sudden start shooting 3" to the right.
 
#34 ·
you could be right , who knows what im doing with the bow when im locked onto my spot lol ... i burn a hole into the spot i wanta hit and keep pulling till the shot breaks ... it just drives me crazy when my pin is on the spot i wanta hit and it dont go there lol .... and to miss a 4'' dot at 30 yards is just plain sad for me lol .... ill just hike up my skirt and get over it lol