I want to add a target sight to an old recurve bow that does not have a sight mount. Is there a specific location where the sight should be mounted (in relation to arrow or arrow rest) on the riser? Any input would be appreciated.
You can mount a sight on the side, face or back of the riser. Most non-FITA type sight shooters use the std barebow side of face anchor. (I even teach new FITA types to use a sight that way, but I digress). With that anchor, the sight pin or aperture will be fairly close to the arrow, meaning if you mount it too high, you may not have enough down travel to reach the distances you want to shoot. Where it has to go is based on you face and the anchor you use. Most peple are about 2-3" above the rest for 20 yds with a std / split anchor. Also, you really don't want to start drilling holes near the fade-of of the limb. That part of the bow take a lot of pressure and it's not a good place for holes or foreign objects.
If you're new to sights on stickbows, some of the older style sights that screwed into the face or back of the bow can be taped on just as easily and there's no risk of damaging the bow, and you can change the position if necesary. If you've never done this before, just tape a toothpick to the back of the riser, so one end sticks out into the sight window and have at it. Better to do a safe experiment before you commit with something like that.
By the way what make and model bow are you trying to mount a sight on and what kind of sight?
I measured a couple of mine , only had a couple of bows with sight mount bushings . I measured up from the shelf and they were both around 2 inches to the bottom bushing or hole.
Tony gave you good advice IE make sure you really want to do this and know what you are doing.
It's not that hard to do and you can buy the bushings from a number of places. If the bow can take them, all you need is a good drill and the right size sharp bit. Mark the depth you need by wrapping tape around the bit so it wont go to deep. Mark your holes and then check the spacing again measure twice drill two holes lol. The bushings should just barely fit into the holes, add some epoxy and you're good to go.. Randy
Viper1, can you tell me what do you mean by the side, face and back of the riser?
Ravensgait, my bow is a Hoyt Pro Medalist, I have not purchased the sight yet, but I am thinking of getting a new Cartel Fita target sight that extends farther out. Does it matter what sight I use? Are they interchangable? Is the bottom bushing the same as the plunger?
Right now I am shooting indoor at 20 yards, but eventually I want to be able to use the same sight to shoot outdoor to up to 60 yards. I don't know how much I have to move the sight to get to 60 yards.
The top 3 pictures show options for a side mount on a Hoyt Gold Medalist. The Cartel sights will mount the same way, and you will have to drill the riser. While bushings are the preferred method, wood screws, if done carefully have worked well too. Note about the Cartels, IMHO, stay away the the cheaper / Nylon ones, Go for an aluminum track and extension.
The bottom pictures show a screw-on (tape-on) mount on a Hoyt PM. First is on the BACK, second is on the FACE, and the third picture shows the patented Viper5000 bowsight. Note the screws on the opposite side of the sight window for a side mounted sight.
Depending on the speed of your bow, size of your face and where you anchor, 60 yds may not be possible, as the farther out you go the LOWER the sight has to go. That's why FITA/Oly shooters anchor under the chin.
I've done a few of these the last several years for members of my club. One thing I would add is use a drill press, you want the work piece(bow riser) to be perpendicular to the drill bit to get a nice, neat, square job. Also, you will be able to control the plunge depth, which could be very important depending on the riser you're drilling:embara:
I also agree with experimenting with a toothpick or feather or whatever before you drill the bow. I use a piece of foam weatherstrip on the back of the riser at the sight window and some pins with the little colored balls. whoever wants their riser drilled can just put it on and shoot for awhile, move the pins up and down at different distances they want, and then mark the riser with some tape at the two extreme distances they shoot. This, and the sight they choose determines where the holes will be drilled. Depending on the arrows, poundage of the bows and your form, you might be surprised how far you have to lower that sight pin and pull the sight bar in at sixty yards.
Take your time, establish your reference marks with a temporary sight and you'll do fine. One more thing, unless you want to do some more of these, don't do this at your club where members can walk in and see you.
use weather stipping foam with the sticky side and run it down the front of the riser then use pins with a plastic end for dress making a box cost 99 cents for about 50 just stick the pin in the foam , up and down adjustment as well as left to right and if and when need be take the foam off and nothing is even left on bow no holes etc etc...
Viper1 - Thanks for the nice photo illustration; if I understand the photo correctly the back of the riser is facing the target, the face of the riser is closer the shooter. Right?
Draw weight of my bow is only 31# so I have to squeeze out every inches from the sight. I am changing my anchor point from next to my mouth to under the chin, hopefully I would be able to use the sight to up to 60 yards. What I try to achieve right now is to get the 20 yard pin as high as possible and hope that I can get to 60 yards without the sight hitting the arrow. I envision mounting the sight similar to your set up in Hoyt GM. (to the side).
Thanks for all the info and I appreciate all the help I get from AT.
Yes, if you think of the bow as a person, the back of the bow is the side away from you and the face is the side to "look at".
Again. it's the size of your face, or rather the distance the arrow nock is below your eye that determines how far you can get on the sight rack. I have a couple of bows in the low 30# range that will make 60 yds with 10+ gr/lb arrows, but they are shooting about 180 fps, with a 29" draw. You'll only know when you try.
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