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My paper tune is dead nuts but its a little more than a 1/8 inch off of center shot what do I do
 

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I use paper tuning only as a starting point. If I have to move my rest right or left of center shot to get a good hole, I move back to center shot and see what my broadheads do.
 

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My paper tune is dead nuts but its a little more than a 1/8 inch off of center shot what do I do
Don't get confused between "setup" and "tuning".

Setup is the process of bring the bow into specs for ATA/BH/Timing/Centershot. Tuning is minor modifications to the setup, that adapt the arrow dynamic properties to your rest, grip, etc. so things fly well. Of the six bows I shoot regularly, only one appears to be on the money for centershot, four are inside of center, one outside. They will all plant a fixed blade head to the same POI as a FP.
 

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Socket Man
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Perfect arrow flight is the only thing that matters no matter how you get there. I am a paper tune guy and I tune until my bow will shoot bulletholes from 0 ft all the way to 20 yds at every distance inbetween. Both of my bows my guardian and destroyer will do this and both have good arrowflight. This will allow you to shoot fixed or mechanical.

I personally shoot rage 2-blade and I do not have to tune my bow to them for hunting season.
 

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Don't get confused between "setup" and "tuning".

Setup is the process of bring the bow into specs for ATA/BH/Timing/Centershot. Tuning is minor modifications to the setup, that adapt the arrow dynamic properties to your rest, grip, etc. so things fly well. Of the six bows I shoot regularly, only one appears to be on the money for centershot, four are inside of center, one outside. They will all plant a fixed blade head to the same POI as a FP.
I agree here. To me "center shot" is the location of the rest that yields the best arrow flight, not necessarily perfectly lined up with the string. When I get bullet holes from all distances and broadheads hitting with field points, then I have found that bows "center shot". Also, depending on the cam system of the bow, the "center shot" can be made different by twisting yokes etc.
 

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since paper tuning is only a single step,, and perfect tears can occur with poor shooting bows, i prefer to get as perfect a center shot set up as i can and work from their if i need to
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I should move my rest center shot or what do I do
 

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for me.
1 check spec on bow adjust as necessary
2 center-shot
3 paper
4 make corrections to bow to achieve perfect tear at center-shot
5 bare shaft through paper and POI adjust as necessary to maintain center-shot and remedy tear or POI issue
 

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I'll be your huckleberry
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Walk back tune it.
Check cam timing on a draw board
Creep tune


Let it eat.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
alright i just looked at bowtech archery website i went to beyond the bow and clicked on overdrive binary advantage and figured out that since i have a tail left tear i can put twist on the left cable of the split buss cable and it will correct my tail left tear while my rest is at centershot pretty freakin cool if you ask me
 

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You need center shot to get a good paper tune--------BUT a persons form can have a huge effect on how a paper tune tuners out. IMHO I use paper tune as a very good starting point of tuning a bow properly, it tells me many things.
 

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if you are shooting one of the new bowtechs like the invasion, destroyer, specialist.
you should be able to achieve perfect centre shot and bare shaft paper tune.
to get it dead nuts bring it to ken at baldys archery.
the man is the high priest of bowtech.
 

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With the Invasion You can set the rest dead center and tune it with the yokes...

Left tear add twists to the left yoke, and take equal twists out of the right...
 
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