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I'm looking for a wood ilf riser that is more natural in color. It's a shame the Tradtech Pinnacle went out if production, as that would have been perfect!

I've seen a cheap wood ILF riser called the Oakridge Shade. Looks like it might be a generic Chinese one. Anyone had experience with this riser?
Not sure if this is still relevant to you. I had the Oakridge Shade Kobicha. I don't know where it was manufactured but it was very well made, very solid. It has a wider grip than the Lark and is a bit heavier.

I believe it the same as this riser: https://www.3riversarchery.com/fleetwood-hunter-ilf-recurve-riser.html

Roger
 

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I'm sure that isn't the same riser. This 17" one, however, sold by October Mountain Products looks to be made by the same folks that make the WFL.



omp 17.jpg
 

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I think the WFL Essential is the same as the OMP Sektor. I have the Sektor in a 15" , nice riser with interchangeable LLA screws as the WFL and has the open limb pockets.
 

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Got one in 19". Stippled the grip. Cut past center and great weight. The by far best riser for the components, design, materials and looks for the money there is right now. Full recommendation!
 

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23" Lark cut past center- modification

Here is a Lark cut past center. I shoot limbs <30# so have no fears on strength or stability. Using "Arrow Hand-Rubbed Oil Finish," this stuff does a beautiful finish, but can take weeks. I should be able to shoot in 14-21 days.

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I had a bad set of limbs on my first experience with Lark, seriously twisted. I adjusted the LLA to make them work, not realizing they were the issue, thinking it was a weird setting of LLA on Lark riser. I had almost given up on ILF, and a shame as I think the Larks are seriously gorgeous bows. Was planning to move to Bear takedowns exclusively- but hurt my shoulder shooting other folks bows that were way to hard for me... and had to go back to my ILF rig at a lower weight until I could feel good again. That was a good move, forced me to figure out my ILF issues, one thing at a time. Got much better on my light rig over last few months, consistency has about doubled on a good day. Mainly improved my arrow selection and did paper tuning instead of charts, picked better spine, set nockin g point better, improved fletching, fit nocks to string more loosely, worked on brace height for quiet, and then recheck and do again...

Got my UUKHA VX+ XL back a few weeks ago, did not even set up on riser, just listed for sale on forum. NO takers, too expensive and too light I suppose... so this weekend figured heck, lets set er up and see if things are better now. Was fun, this is a dream rig even at 31.5" draw. So- modification time!

Will take better photos with a real camera in a few weeks after I get 14 or so coats of finish on the darn thing.

If anyone wants a 17" or 19" Lark let me know. 23" is as small as I can go, wife wont shift from her rig, nor my daughter. LLA replaced with 12mm screws included standard. That is only thing I have heard being a recurring issue that I recall.

Regards, Pipcount
 

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Lesson learned: Houston is too humid an environment to use "Arrow hand rubbed oil finish" without LONG dry times. Even in my air conditioned living room, 50% humidity, 75F, as a drying area it simply took forever per coat- and yes, I put on extremely thin coats, and even used a soft cloth to wipe off riser after coating figuring "get it lighter." After three coats and ~ one month I gave up and tried putting Tru Oil over the Arrow finish- figure this is a risk, as directions are strip old finish and apply. But- it seems to work. Very shiny, finish seems ok. I might later knock it down to a semi gloss with 000 steel wool. A friend I was shooting with thought the cut in and refinish were original/standard, and did not understand what I was saying to him while showing "I cut this in here" first few times. So, aesthetically it seems to have turned out well.

Functional results of center shot experiment on Lark must be considered a success. Easy tune- took only a few iterations to get to "about right" on string length/brace height, then arrow spine. Quiet with no string dampening whatsoever. Very repeatable groups. Seems pretty forgiving of spine choice as most centershot risers are.

I set up this weekend as a "try first" bow for a friend who has been shooting with me for last three months at once/month, 29" draw, long limbs make a perfect 68" bow for him. He wanted a wood riser... after shooting he decided "What a lark! I gotta get one." For a newbie set up at 20# on fingertips, three under. We were shooting at 15 yards, he was typically able to get 8" groups, quite an athlete for only shooting three times now.

I don't know how you might judge what this does to the strength of the riser, but to me it appears the Larks have a VERY thick wood section on the sight window. I took off ~3/16" and use a Hoyt Super Rest. Still a very beefy cross section compared to my Bear risers, and the phenolic should add some real strength. What I told my friend "I expect these risers were built to handle limbs up to ~70#... I would not worry up to about 45#, and if you are doing this for having fun target shooting at ranges from 10-35 yds barebow you really wont need to go past 3540# anyway.. if you get serious you will get a different riser."

Why I cared enough to do this: All my other risers are highly center shot cut... I simply am used to it, expect it. I want to set up my arrows to be just BARELY past center, then I can move around a bit on bows and get roughly predictable results. I will never be a great shooter- I never shoot same bow from week to week. But I have fun! If you are visiting NW Houston drop by, I will burn some steak for you at the range.

New idea I had this weekend, might help others: If you are using a hoyt super rest: Buy the black ones and use magic marker to black the adhesive pad edges. Vastly better appearance!
 

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What tools did you use to cut it past center? I was thinking a small air powered belt sander.
 

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Aluminated- Dyeing a rest is an awesome idea. I read this a couple days ago, thought on it a lot, looked at the current black one. Given front of bow is black phenolic, not going to worry about it on this bow. On an all wood riser you might see me follow your path!

Grantmac- Table saw with a slide I built for precision cuts. Put riser on slide to keep it square, then simply move a bit per cut until I had a channel. Then rasp, file, sand. Next one (Bear B riser) is going to be done differently- Might do a smaller overall inletting at 1/16-1/8 across the sight window, then custom cut another inlet shaped for a hoyt style super rest about 1/32-1/16" using my milling machine. That should leave more material and increase strength in riser, and hide the rest a bit as well. Combined with using Aluminated's shoe goo, and skinny arrows, I might get to center cut without much material removal on riser sight window. My goal is to have arrow ~1/32" past center on the little tab, and rest surface just the slightest bit past the surface of the wood so if arrow "bangs" on something it hits rest surface and not the wood. My friends new Lark shipped today from Alternativess, so I will likely do both the new Lark and my Bear B riser next weekend. The Lark riser is so thick I dont think I will worry about the inletting sized to super rest, but the Bear riser is pretty slim.
Wish me luck!
 

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Ahoy everybody, and happy new year!
I just bought a WFL 19". First TD ever. I don't know how to use the ILF system. I mean, how I can put more or less power at the limbs?
I'm going to buy the Oak Ridge CF limbs. Just the cheaper CF I found here around me, 100€. But, in one shop they say the libbre are for a 19" riser and another say is refer to a 25"... So, i don't know what to order... Someone have a suggestion?
Thanks!
 

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Look at the sticker on the limbs. It will say something like: 17H, 19H, 21H or 25H. The number is the length riser limbs are rated for.

Oak Ridge limbs are rated on a 19" riser.
 
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