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None of mine came with anything other than hex / allen wrenches and a riser bag. I cannot even recall a pamphlet/manual/guide at all, but it has been a while.
Re- GPP, no idea whatsoever.
 

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One thing that I'm concerned about is the side shelf position. Reading previous posts the side wall is pretty much at zero as is, maybe even further out once velcro is applied.

I wanted to use the same arrow setup I use on my Titan III, but I think the arrows will be too stiff now on this riser. What do you think?

45lb limbs, 28 inch draw, 30" GT Trads 500 spine with 125gr points.
 

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You may have to add a bit of weight to the tip. That is not far from what I shoot but my riser is cut well past center.
 

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I use the same arrows on a 50lb longbow, but with 200gr points as the arrows point left a fair bit. (For a RH shooter)

Shame the WFL isn't cut more past centre, as then I could use my preferred arrow setup. Guess they do this for strength though.
 

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Brings up an interesting question. While the adjustment may not be extreme , can the LLA screws be used to modify the amount of centercut?
 

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Using LLA to offset limbs from centerline seems like an odd path to me, you would get sideways push from string on arrow.. might end up with a very sensitive bow.

Alternatively, since I shoot lightweight limbs, I have cut into my risers another 1/8" to get past center as on all my other bows. Worked great for me. But I limit to 35# max on fingertips. Some others here have also cut in and had good luck, not sure what weights they shot.

Probably simplest to just use a different arrow spine or more tip weight. Few bows from 70's were cut past center, and they shot fine.
 

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Well, personally I would not take a rasp file to a pretty wood riser.

Not really what I'd prefer, but the solution would be as stated to add more tip weight to weaken the arrow, or maybe fully bottom out the limb bolts to up the poundage. Changing the brace height may also possibly affect dynamic spine?
 
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