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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanting some feedback.
I tried explaining them to one of the biggest pro shops in OK and they tried to laugh me out of the store.
I guess I'll just have to break down and buy some on Friday.
Where do I get them? I emailed the company with some questions (twice) but never got a reply.
Also,how well do they work for hunting?
 

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a few guys on this forum use them - they will be glad to fill you on the details.

I myself don't care much about the looks but to each their own! I am sure they work good since they have a loyal following.

About all you can do is try them & see what you think. I'm still just a bit traditional myself!



:D
 

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I think they are prety cool.I have never used them myself but my friend did.Remember you must be shooting a wiscerbisquit(totally miss spelled it)or drop away rest to use it. The only other problem I know of is that they are fragile so you must shoot at diferent targets or you will break them.let us know how you like them.Good luck.
 

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Jocephus,
I use Turbo Nocks and I think that they are the worst product that you can ever put on an arrow!

Why do I say this you ask?

Because you can get so accurate and consistant with them that you are going to ruin a lot of arrows!

If you would like to learn a lot about Turbo Nocks, go to the search engine of this forum, or http://forums.pse-archery.com/ or http://sccoutdoors.com/forums/index.php? or better yet http://www.turbonock.com . The three archery forum searches are going to net you many hours of reading, so please be prepared! :)

I have been involved with Turbo Nocks ever since Nick Snook first mentioned his idea on the old Easton Forum. It has been a very great experience for me! :)

Dick

http://www.myfishingpictures.com/img/001260.jpg
 

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you can order them on several forums and teh thing that gets most people is when you shoot afterthey do and you tear up their arrows and they get ticked off. works for me though and i have neverhad a lick of trouble with them. f you get htem be sure your shooting a drop away or a whisker bisquit. they have a faster rpm than standard fletching and they will have 5 rpms in the first 5 feet of travel where a standard fletching will have maybe 1 to 1 1/2 rpms in twenty yards. your center hsot needs to be full on as it will throw arrows out if you dont; have yoru tiller and centershot level. your going to enjoy not having to fletch arrows just pull the woudned ons off and replace them with a new one. good luck and you can call nick snook on his 800 niumber and he will get you some mailed out he takes visa and mc so just give it a go
rob k
 

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I'm shooting them for 3D and hunting with them this year.

My hunting bows both have Muzzy ZEs, and my 3D bow a homemade drop away. I've been messing with a variety of arrows from my arrow barrel. Hunting shafts will likely be Beman ICS Hawks (Fields) 340s about 29" long tipped with either 90 grain Muzzys, 125 grain Muzzys, or 125 grain Spitfires. However,

I also have some old small dia Beman CarbonHawks that might be used. I'll cut short sections of the ICS Hawks and glue them over the ends to form "outserts" that will hold the Turbo Nocks. Got this neat idea from Nick Snook the inventor of Turbo Nocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
AH HA!
The usual suspects....

grandpawrichard
robk
Don Schultz

You three are the ONLY folks that ever have feedback on these things.Oh yeah....Rick Snook too.

Don't misunderstand me.
I'm not bashing them,I'm just looking for more opinions.
I was thinking of ordering some Friday.I guess that'll be the best test.
BTW,STILL no reply from the company.
 

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I'll chime in and add my .02. From my experience, the Turbonocks work as stated. They are a different animal than conventional fletching and thus adhere to different "rules." That said, once you figure out what the perameters are, you will get excellent results. I initially had a bunch of shafts crack upon insertion of the Turbonocks. The shafts in question were Carbon Express CX Hunter 300s. I switched to Gold Tip 5575s with the standard nock adaptor and have not had any problems since. A nock bushing helps add quite a bit of resiliency to the shaft when shooting Turbonocks. Other than that, I have had no problems. Nick stands behind his design and product 100%.

I think the Turbonock is a viable alternative, if not an improvement over conventional fletching. Try them for yourself and see if you like them. Try to stick to an arrow that weighs close to your AMO recommended minimum arrow weight. The lighter an arrow is, the faster it will fly, and consequently, the faster it will spin. The faster the Turbo-equipped arrow spins, the more stable it is. Do not concern yourself with F.O.C. Go with a light broadhead. 100 grains or less is best. The above seems to be what works best for Turbonocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm shooting 8.1 gpi at 27",60# @28"
What weight BH would you reccomend with the turbo nocks?
Would 100gr be too heavy?
 

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I use 5575 Gold Tip's with 90 grain broadhead so I guess that would be about right for the Turbo nocks. I just may have to get some
 

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I also had problems with cracking on the CX shafts with the turbos mine were the 200 size.

The turbos can be made to work but they are not the "bolt them on and your problems will be solved" type of thing that some will have you think.

I had the serving break right under the nock on a brand new winners choice string after less than 100 shots with the turbos.
I can't say it was the turbos fault but thats what I was using.

The only advantage I can see is you do not have to fletch the arrows with them and that IS nice.

A good normal fletched arrow will shoot better than anyone can hold anyway. And this RPM thing is just some type.

If you like to play around (and most of us do), give them a try you might get them to work and if so your buddys will just shake their heads.

Right now my jury is still out on them.
 

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Jocephus,

I'm not bashing them,I'm just looking for more opinions.
No need to worry about you bashing them Sir! A Smart and Well Informed Consumer is a happy one! It you would like to go to http://www.sccoutdoors.com and do a search of their forum, you will find a lot of feedback from New Coustomers. You will find a lot of very happy archers there that are tickled pink with their Turbo Nock Experiences. :)

Dick
 

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I second what GPR posted on worst product due to accuracy, I will post my proof tomorrow when I get my cable in here for my cam corder, and show ya what happens at 35 & 20 yds with these. Yessir, the grandpaw as well as the owner will be quite proud of these groups and glad we talked. These will shoot my 2 blade stubborn *** broadheads that would not shoot worth a sh*t out of my hunting bow with big feathers, and now they shoot like a dream. ROCK ON TEAM TURBONOCK, GLAD ME AND MR. SNOOK TALKED!!!!!!

TEAM TURBONOCK IS HERE TO STAY, NOW WE ARE GOING TO DOMINATE THE 3D WORLD.

Keep'n it real....
 

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BTW, I've never met the other 2 suspects. HeeHeeHee

Yeah, I'm a ususal suspect, but I suspect the numbers will grow. Killing a deer or 2 this year will get more attention than killing X's. I don't know how Nick Snook is doing with the TN at this point. I don't know Turbo Nocks will dominate the Western Hemisphere by the end of 2003, but I'm going to stick with them for the time being.

Things I've learned:

1. Make a little extra cable clearance. (I tend to shave this to close.)

2. Shoot 5 spot targets right from the start. (Or you WILL pay)

3. Shoot 'em a bit more nock high than I have been. (Don't know 'cept it works.)

4. String wax on the nock area at the start of each shooting session. (Just seemed like a good idea)

5. IGNORE FOC% (Accidently shot an arrow w/o ANY tip screwed in. @ 30 yards, it grouped 1" high and 4" right)

6. Don't shoot @ crowded ranges, you spend the whole session answering questions and don't get any work done.

7. But if you do, ignore the jerk who says they don't work. Find his nock and kill it. (OK, so that's not ignoring him.)


I'm going to try to make them work without a string loop. I'd prefer to not shoot a loop on my hunting bows. BTW, I put a single brass nock point BELOW the arrow nock, and tie some braided serving above the nock to hold it down on the brass. This eliminates release pressure.
 

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new user to turbo hunters

so far so good i read all the settings from all the people from the past posts and set mine up first try... shoots like a bullet.

nock them a little high little less than 1/8th in. and make the drop away raise at the last 2" or less.. gets it out of the way fastest.

and whamo my old target now wont keep a arrow from blasting clean through it.. 12" thick .. in 1 day i literally ate the center of my Styrofoam target up .. 10 yards 20 yards 30 yards 40 yards even 50 yards still drop them right through the center and out the other side of my target they fly great just follow everyone's suggestion on setting them up and you will be happy ... i think they shoot best between 30 and 40 yards they have had a chance to spin and stabilize the most..

oh and don't shoot at the same spot with more than 3 arrows or you will blast one of them to pieces ... guarantee it...
 

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I tried them with the same problem of cracking the rear end of my cx300's. Also they did not shoot out of a NAP2000 rest. The prongs on the rest fare up and the turbo's hit the prongs. THe rest does not drop far enough to ctear the turbo hunters.

Other than that I think they could be a great option to featers and vanes it will just take some trial and error to figure out the setup.
 

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i waited and watched

thats why i went with the mirage drop away tons of clearance mine raises full at the last 1.5" - 1.75" of draw which if you think about it is like still having the arrow travel 1/2 of it's length before it even thinks about dropping but still in time to clear the hunters i think people make the mistake of having there rest raise way to early if yours is fully raised at the last 3"- 4" of draw than i guess you will be hitting your turbo on any drop away that arrow only takes miliseconds to clear the rest....

i have heard of cracking with carbons so i went with my old XX75 platinums 2213's speeds is not everything and not as important as accuracy is as long as one has enough speed .. i know my arrow is not the lightest and i'm using 125gr. tips .. and it's shooting rock solid.. and seems to be shooting pretty flat my bow is rated for 300fps but add all the gear and i'm guessing 260fps
granted i shoot a lighter 50-55lbs draw..

i guess all i'm saying there is a right and a wrong way to set up the turbos and with the right combo of gear they work great..

i think maybe someone should put together a chart with aproximate weights and messures for arrow bow and rest combinations .. as setup is directly related to all these combos and some are bound to work better than others.. there should be a what works best page on the website so anyone buying new gear can make some educated choices on gear that they know will work and not be scared of guessing.. because that all money spent and if what you buy don't work from the get go than one gets discouraged with that product and will slam how it does not work... even though it's just because they setup a wrong combo of gear or did not set up there gear correct..

i know i waited a long time before buying and i followed all the advise i read here before i even tryed them and with those rules my first shot was a bullseye..

so it can be done.. how about a chart or some guidelines on the turbonock website? what do ya say nick.. rules as to what works best

heavy or light arrow, carbon or aluminum, 100 gr or 125 gr tip
which drop aways seem to function better and when to set them to fully raise... per each type of rest... what weight to shoot what combo for best flight... placement of the rest center shot or slightly right/left nocking 1/8th high or aprox.. best way to tie the rest......:rolleyes:

of course the data will be aprox and fine tuning for each setup will be necesary... as with any setup personal touches are always needed
 

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Also they did not shoot out of a NAP2000 rest

madarchery,
I shot my Turbo Nocks with a NAP 2000 rest and at first I had the same problem that you are having. My fix for that was to rotate the prongs downward, so that the prong points were pointing sideways. I never had a problem after that.

Also you need to set your rest up so that it does not come up until the Last 1 1/2" of the draw cycle. This setup insures that the rest has dropped quick enough to let the Turbo Nocks clear! I set up all of my Dropaways this way. Even for vaned arrows!


TIGGAR,
Why were they breaking? I bet that they were breaking due to crashing with the rest. Either that or you were shooting too many arrows per target and they were killing each other.

If you use a little trick that I have come up with while tuning a dropaway rest with Turbo Nocks; you shouldn't have problems. I always cover my Turbo Nocks with Bright Colored Lipstick when I'm setting up a new rest. That way I can check for contact with the rest, riser, cables and sight. It's an off take of the old foot powder trick that you use with vanes. It does work very well! Just don't let your wife find out that you used her favorite Lipstick to check arrow contact! ;) :) :D

Dick
 

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Lipstick sounds a little messy but effective. Do you load up the leading edges of the vanes and then look for deposits on the bow parts?
 
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