why feathers over plastic fletch
Im new to traditional shooting but not to building my own arrows. The one thing I know is I cant use Blazer vanes . I will be getting a Bear 48 manum on trade this week and plan on shooting 31 inch 2219's the bow is 55lbs at 28 inches so I think I'm in the right arrow range my question is given the durabillity of plastic fletching are feathers that important or is there no real difference . also I will fletching with a right twist is there any difference in 4 or 5 inch vanes thanks for any imput.
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jk
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I'll let you know up front, some one will say you're over bowed if you are new to traditional archery gear, I found out the hard way & am now using a 45# Grizzly but am working my way up, tis up o you my friend.
As far as arrows go, you look to be in the right ball park of spine & am looking at a decent weight.
The Feather are more forgiving than Vanes especially for finger shooting off the shelf like I do where contact is inevitable.
tpoof:
I was bassing my spine calculations on a 150gr. point & a 31" shaft.
As far as arrows go, you look to be in the right ball park of spine & am looking at a decent weight.
The Feather are more forgiving than Vanes especially for finger shooting off the shelf like I do where contact is inevitable.
tpoof:
I was bassing my spine calculations on a 150gr. point & a 31" shaft.
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I shoot off the shelf on all 4 of my bows, and vanes don't work for me at all. While feathers can compress over the shelf, vanes push off against the shelf and shoot erratically in my experience. If you use a rest, even a flipper rest, vanes can work for you.
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Wolf -
A 29" 2219 spines in the 85 - 95# range and at 31", about 10# less - your call.
Raider covered the over-bowed part, however in additon to that, the bow is WAY too short to learn on. Lastly, if your draw is anywhere near your arrow length, that bow will stack like the stops on your compound well before you anchor.
Seriously, you might want to rethink it a bit.
Just for giggles, with a 31" 2219 from that bow vanes will cause a ton of riser interference and the odds are feathers won't last a weeks worth of shooting.
Viper1 out.
A 29" 2219 spines in the 85 - 95# range and at 31", about 10# less - your call.
Raider covered the over-bowed part, however in additon to that, the bow is WAY too short to learn on. Lastly, if your draw is anywhere near your arrow length, that bow will stack like the stops on your compound well before you anchor.
Seriously, you might want to rethink it a bit.
Just for giggles, with a 31" 2219 from that bow vanes will cause a ton of riser interference and the odds are feathers won't last a weeks worth of shooting.
Viper1 out.
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question why would it do this if I draw 28 to28.5 inches the extra inches would be in front of arrow not traveling along shelf. If 2219 are to big what would a proper arrow size be and would shortning the arrow help. I shoot shorter than draw length arrow out of my compounds due to my rest protecting my hand from broadhead but I'm thinking longer is better for a recurve. Thanks in advance for your imput I love the Idea of reinventing my archery knowledge.
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JMO but I wouldn't worry as much about arrow length as bow length at this point. You never know but I'm wondering about your having a happy intro to trad shooting with that 48" bow particularly being at 55# which is the highest offered weight for that bow if I'm not mistaken (for good reason I'm a thinkin'). I would seriously want to shoot it before making any trades. Best of luck however things turn out.
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spine
If I understand your question right, if you cut a already stiff arrow it will be stiffer. If you are set on shooting this higher than normal poundage bow for a beginner( most will tell you this,but not all -98%)make sure your arrows are right. Find out what you draw THAT bow at and then go to a spine chart(for recurves) and at least get some arrows that are in the ball park. Longer is not better, just the proper spine for your set up.
Do your self a favor and do some research on a good book on Archery. "Shooting the Stickbow" is a supposed to be a very good one (Viper1 authored it), TBM had a great review on it and all the other trad sites are talking it up pretty nice. There are other ones for sure, but get one and read it, it will make your learning trad easier.- Welcome to trad- Steve
Viper is the one of the guys you really want to take very seriously here. I remember a guy named Nuts & Bolts on the compound forum and when he posted I listened, and I would regularly go to look at his posting and thread history and read everything he said(I'd recommend the same with Viper) .I didn't run a spine chart on your set-up but Viper said your too stiff already.
If I understand your question right, if you cut a already stiff arrow it will be stiffer. If you are set on shooting this higher than normal poundage bow for a beginner( most will tell you this,but not all -98%)make sure your arrows are right. Find out what you draw THAT bow at and then go to a spine chart(for recurves) and at least get some arrows that are in the ball park. Longer is not better, just the proper spine for your set up.
Do your self a favor and do some research on a good book on Archery. "Shooting the Stickbow" is a supposed to be a very good one (Viper1 authored it), TBM had a great review on it and all the other trad sites are talking it up pretty nice. There are other ones for sure, but get one and read it, it will make your learning trad easier.- Welcome to trad- Steve
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48in.
I guess I missed that, 48in, that is a shorty. Trad shooting is one of the few things I did a quite of bit of research before getting my first bow, and one of the first times I took the advise of others, well kind of. I started out with a 62in. 41# longbow and that was about 6# more than what most suggested I start out with, but what the heck, now I can say I did it my way -lol - Steve
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According to the Easton Hunting Arrow Selection chart, http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/09-hunt-sel-chart.pdf, 2216's or 2314's might suit you better. That's assuming a 29" arrow length, 125 grain point, and 55 lb. draw weight.
Like sdpeb1 (Steve) said, find out what your draw length is for that bow first of all. If you're taking it to an archery shop for that, may as well have them weigh the draw at that length while you're at it - so you'll know at what weight it'll actually be flinging arrows. Once you know those figures, along with the weight of the points/broadheads you plan to use, it should be easy to use the selection chart accurately.
All of that said...I agree with the others about it being a rather short bow to learn on. I am NO expert, but just from personal experience, I had a Bear Grizzly, which is 58" in length, which had a lot more finger pinch than my current Bear, a 64" Montana longbow has. I feel like I should have gotten the longer bow first.
If you can shoot with it first, that would be a good thing. Then you'll be able to better judge whether or not it's a good fit for you. Good luck to you.
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Got the 48 mag today and shot a few arrows 1st of I'll say the 55 pounds is a little hard but once I got a few shots off it isnt that bad finger pinch isnt bad either I will be cutting my arrows down a bit and may choose a different spine I was shooting what I had left from my earlier days of shooting( Early90's)compounds with fingers. I will say its a whole different game than my Elite bows but that is the point, now I have a new challenge and thats what got me into Archery in the beginning. Thanks for those that had input I look forward to asking more Questions by the way tried to shoot with plastic and feathers and feathers are the way to go you guy's were spot on .
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not sure how much "fact" is in this page but it is a sort of interesting read take for what its worth. my arrows have plastic feathers not sure what esle to call em but i dont know enough about archery yet to make a real informed choice about natural feathers vs plastic ones.
http://www.trueflightfeathers.com/facts.htm
http://www.trueflightfeathers.com/facts.htm
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