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Wobbling while at full draw

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7.4K views 37 replies 23 participants last post by  Oncorhynchus  
#1 ·
Does anyone have some tips for minimizing wobbling while at full draw? I'm wobbling pretty bad when I'm trying to shoot at 30 yards, I've tried narrower and wider stances, my back foot forward and back and combinations.
 
#2 ·
Too much draw weight?

Target panic?

If you give some more details on exactly what happens and at what yardage the gang will be more apt to chime in.

Good luck. Hope you get it figured out
 
#5 ·
Adding weight is a band aide fix. You need to find out why you're wobbling. Which is your form or too much draw weight. If your form is off, and bow fitment is off you'll never have a float that is optimal for you. Draw length and loop length is pivotal. Front shoulder positioning is crucial.

I can shoot my bow with 1 ounce up front and 3 on the back bar and get the same float as with my normal weight. Weight on the bars is to minimize misses when we make a mistake.

I have a ton of information on my website that you can look at: www.rcrchery.com There's a link to my blog at the top that has a lot of articles at the bottom on draw length, bow arm, ect. I also have a YouTube channel link that will give you a lot of information in a video form. If you want, I even have options for instructional dvd's and coaching one on one with you as well.

If you have any questions along the way, let me know and I'll be glad to help you out!
 
#6 ·
I'm shooting 60# dw @ 28" dl. I'm comfortable, anchor point is solid and consistent. I have two stabilizers, both are the Trophy Ridge Static, one 6" the other is 9". I have no ides what they weigh because I don't have a scale.
 
#12 ·
Im going to say your too tense!!!! I do the same thing sometimes. In other words stop trying to hold the pin on the target. Draw anchor get pin there and let it move with your body relaxed. If it goes to the right or left let down and open or close your stance. Draw anchor let flit but relax the body and don't try and hold the pin still on the spot it's not going to happen. Let it float
 
#16 ·
Several things cause me to wobble at full draw:

First is too high of a holding weight. Just because I can draw the bow back does not mean I can hold it into the back wall. A 60lb draw at 65% let-off has a holding tension of 21 lbs. 80% let-off drops that to 12.4 lbs minimum. My most comfortable hold weight is around 15 lbs.

Second: Wrong draw length: If its too long, you release arm elbow has dropped down to where there is no more movement to get more tension of the string. This means you are holding more draw weight and have no movement to counter-act it. If the draw length is too short, many people have a tendency to bend the bow arm elbow or hunch their bow shoulder. That is a lot more unstable than a straight bow arm with bone-on-bone contact.

Third is unstable platform: If your whole body is moving, you may just need footwear with a stiffer, wider sole. My yard where I practice has a lot of uneven ground. Footwear makes a difference for me in how stable I am.

Your statement that its wobbly at 30 yds implies that its better at 20. If that is the case, than that means when you have to raise the bow higher you start closing control. That sounds more like hunched bow shoulder (which locks the shoulder so you can't lift the bow arm) caused by too short a draw length, or too long a draw length where you can't pull enough tension on the string to keep the bow up. Could also be just too much weight on the bow and the bow arm still needs some strength building.

I have one bow that is 60 lb Max DW and 70% let-off. I have to back it down to about 56lbs to shoot it well even though it is the lightest set-up I have. My other two are Elites that I have set to about an 80% let-off. They are over a pound heavier with the sights, etc, but I shoot them at 62lbs and shoot them better than I can the light one. I just have s-coil vibration dampeners on all three, no stabs, so cannot comment on if stabilizers would help you.

Hope this helps find the problem

Go
 
#17 ·
I did a couple things. I used my longer stabilizer and increased the forward weight by taking the weights off my shorter stabilizer. I stepped back to my 30 yard marker and just drew my bow. I'm weaving left-right more then I am up-down, but not as bad as I was before. As far as terrain, I'm in my yard so it's uneven. I may go to the ball diamond later and try it some more.
 
#19 ·
Lots of things, draw length could be off (likely long) , to much draw weight, bow balance, form, you've had to much coffee...
 
#23 ·
Try practicing your aiming if thats what u mean by wobble.. go out with an arrow nocked and just focus on holding on a spot, or draw a circle on paper and try to keep ur pin in that circle then when u get comfortable move back 10 yards at a time till you get to your max deer range and focus on aiming adn dont fire any shots... when u start struggling let down and regroup then try again... works for levi morgan so it works for me

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#26 ·
Can you describe your "wobbling" a little better? Is it your whole body swaying back and forth or just your bow arm shaking?
 
#27 ·
I wobble at the first draw. I wobbled when my bow was at 50#DW, I wobbled at 26" DL (which is what the shop measured me at when I bought my bow). I did the calculation myself later, my arm spread is 70.5" divided by 2.5 = 28.2" Since my Mission can't do 1/2 sizes, I went with 28"

Here's a pic, don't pay any attention to the white legs.

 
#29 ·
I wobble at the first draw. I wobbled when my bow was at 50#DW, I wobbled at 26" DL (which is what the shop measured me at when I bought my bow). I did the calculation myself later, my arm spread is 70.5" divided by 2.5 = 28.2" Since my Mission can't do 1/2 sizes, I went with 28"

Here's a pic, don't pay any attention to the white legs.

View attachment 4596649
You need a wider stance. Feet should be hip width or just a little wider. Build the foundation. Draw length is too short. Bow arm shoulder is compressed. Inch short maybe? Depends on how much movement is in the shoulder joint and scapula rotation.

Anchor point is floating and release arm elbow is low. You lose stability with this. Not using the correct back and core muscles on the front end and back end.

Fine tuning on the grip placement and fingers. Tension there wiggles the bow.

You need a full rebuild on form and bow fitment.
 
#32 ·
Your draw length does look a little short , but what has helped me tremendously on holding still is:

(1) Pushing the bow with the left hand forward til you feel bone on bone contact
(2). Making sure your release hand (knuckle )is solidly anchored against your right cheek bone underneath your ear.

These two things will help you hold still longer.


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