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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of setting up my X-Jammers for indoors and am having a problem getting rid of a nock low tear. The raw shafts are cut to 30" and I have 175 grain points and 3" Quick Spins on wraos with the CX stock nock and collar. I am shooting them off a .012 blade and there is about 6-7" of shaft overhanging my blade. I have moved the nock point pretty high and I still get a 1" nock low tear at 6 FT. The rotation on the cam is in the optimum position (Prestige). Any ideas?

Does Easton make a Uni-Bushing that will fit the X-Jammer? Thinking that a change to a uni bushing and G-Nock might lighten up the back end.

Thanks,
Jbird
 

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some ideas

Not sure if i can help you on the low tear issue J-Bird. Mine tuned right in and shoot incredibly consistently with the first length/weight combination I tried. Have you tried different amounts of tip weight yet? That CX tunable weight system they have for their tips sure does make that easy to do! You might also try cutting one of them shorter by half an inch at a time. You have plenty of room to play with, and I have seen the amount of arrow hanging over the rest make a tremendous difference in how it tunes.

As far as the nocks go, I had a extra GT 30X Pin nock adapter lying around and it fits the x-Jammers perfectly. I considered going for it and installing the 30x pin nock adapters in all of my arrows, but my X-Jammers are flying so well with the Hypertec nocks in them that I'm afraid to mess with anything. It's another easy option worth looking into though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Low Tear

I'm thinking it might be the overhang. I have my rest maxed out for moving the nock up with lowering the blade without taking the screw out of the elevation adjustment, moving it,and starting over. I am waiting to talk to my
X-Jammer guru tonight before proceeding.
Jbird
 

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Jbird said:
I'm thinking it might be the overhang. I have my rest maxed out for moving the nock up with lowering the blade without taking the screw out of the elevation adjustment, moving it,and starting over. I am waiting to talk to my
X-Jammer guru tonight before proceeding.
Jbird
Jbird:

I don't have any experience with the X-Jammer shaft,
but 6-7 inches of overhang?

Take one of your shafts,
and cut it so that you have 1/4-inch of overhang.

Clearly, you have the adjustable CX points,
and try 100 grains in front.

This will be ultra stiff, but try it.

This technique works great with my GoldTip UL Pro Series 22 shafts
(fat shafts) that are way overspined...stiff off the charts,
and I am shooting at 57 lbs and 29.6-inches of draw length,
with a 27.5 arrow shaft length (not including the nock).

So, rather than shooting a loooong shaft with a heavy point,
the other strategy is to shoot a very short overhang.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
N&b

I am thinking going the shorter shaft approach. I am shooting about 46-48 pounds indoors at 26.5" draw length. If I cut to 1/4" past the tip of the blade I will have about a 24 3/4" raw shaft length. X-Jammers or 30X shafts are like shooting rebar at that length. I realize that you can tune to shoot those short shafts but with zero flex in the shaft, forgiveness, if there is any such thing with fat shafts, goes completely in the dumper. I plan to give these big boys a fair shot but I am going to compare them to my Fatboy 500's which I can get to spine and see what puts the most X's on the score card.
Jbird
 

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Jbird said:
I am thinking going the shorter shaft approach. I am shooting about 46-48 pounds indoors at 26.5" draw length. If I cut to 1/4" past the tip of the blade I will have about a 24 3/4" raw shaft length. X-Jammers or 30X shafts are like shooting rebar at that length. I realize that you can tune to shoot those short shafts but with zero flex in the shaft, forgiveness, if there is any such thing with fat shafts, goes completely in the dumper. I plan to give these big boys a fair shot but I am going to compare them to my Fatboy 500's which I can get to spine and see what puts the most X's on the score card.
Jbird
Yup, my shafts are about 2-inches shorter than the AMO draw length.
OnTarget2! says my shafts are off the charts stiff.

I even added a half sheet arrow wrap,
and shoot the VaneTec mini-FITA vanes. 1.87 inches long and 0.3 inches high.

I tuned the bareshafts to fly level first.
Too lazy to move my d-loop. I was shooting GoldTip UL 400s just prior.

So, instead of moving the d-loop, I played with the tiller on the top limb bolt.

Bottom limb bolt is maxed and bottomed out. I am probably 3-4 turns out on the top limb. Basically, the GT UL Pro Series 22 fat shafts like a very high nocking point on my Bullet X to fly level, and I'm using a Brite Site Pro Tuner blade rest. Cam timing is perfect.

I only have 80 grain tips, so my shafts are ultra ultra stiff.

So, if you do cut one shaft of your X-Jammers,
play with your tiller to get level bareshaft flight.

I'm using the Pro Series 22 shafts for NFAA field,
and I can get tight groups out to 60 yds
(max distance on the practice range).

Let us know what you find out.

If you have the X-Jammer shafts cut to a raw shaft length of 24.75 inches
with the QuickSpin 2.25 vanes,

try 120 grains of tip weight total (weights, insert, screw in point).

That will get you a 8.2% FOC.
 

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Jay,

My X-Jammer arrows were left long at the recommendation of the person at Lancaster that built them for me.
Mine are 31" without the point and hang 4" past my rest and fly superbly for me with only 2" vanes
Their flight is downright beautiful and my scores have went up way past when I once used A/C/C arrows.
Only cut one shaft and test it, like mentioned above, before cutting all of them. ;)


Sag.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sag

Got my X-Jammers late last year and didn't have time to shoot them much.
I was shooting Line Jammers out of my Apex 7 and they worked great at 30" shaft length and 150 grain points. Setting these X-Jammers up to shoot out of my Prestige and Barnsdale Classic X and I am having a few teething problems. Darrin PM'd me and I am waiting to talk to him before proceeding.
Jbird
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Low Tear

Looks like I had a little fletch interference and my nock point needed to be even higher. I am shooting a perfect bullet hole now (which of course is only the first step). Am going to talk to DCM about shortening the shaft length.
Will remove the chrome collar and it's 5 grains of weight as I will never shoot these at a single spot.
Jbird
 

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Jbird---my X-Jammer shafts are 29 5/8" long. My total arrow weight is 410gr.
A suggestion for you on the nocks----I took the Gold Tip 30x GT nock, and shortened up the stem to 5/16"---now my nocks only weigh 11gr. I also use Gold Tip 30X 100gr points. For fletching I use Duravane 3D 2.3" vanes, and have them put on in a 1/2" staggered pattern.

I am shooting these arrows at 56#at 284fps, and getting robinhoods after robinhoods at 40yds.

If you are shooting 5-spot you really have no need for the collars either, which will also lighten up the back end for you.
 

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elkhunter said:
Jbird---my X-Jammer shafts are 29 5/8" long. My total arrow weight is 410gr.
A suggestion for you on the nocks----I took the Gold Tip 30x GT nock, and shortened up the stem to 5/16"---now my nocks only weigh 11gr. I also use Gold Tip 30X 100gr points. For fletching I use Duravane 3D 2.3" vanes, and have them put on in a 1/2" staggered pattern.

I am shooting these arrows at 56#at 284fps, and getting robinhoods after robinhoods at 40yds.

If you are shooting 5-spot you really have no need for the collars either, which will also lighten up the back end for you.

Good gracious, what bow are you shooting and how long is your draw?:eek:
 

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I have zero experience with the x-jammers, but I do have experience with the GT 30X shafts and what I found to work is exactly what Tim Gillingham has pushed...arrows cut 1/2" past blade, a stiff wide blade, and 150gr pts with pin nocks. I shoot mine at 30" [email protected]# and they are incredibly accurate and consistent....no need to turn nocks. I would guess the same rules would apply to your x-jammers.

My theory on why these ultra-stiff shafts work so well is that they are SO stiff that inconsistencies in spine mean nothing because they don't flex.

If the pin nock bushings fit your x-jammers...IMO,that is the way to go...pin nocks ROCK! They all spin so true after you set them up....no going thru a pile of g-nocks and bushings to get good nock spin.As for fitting up your shafts with g-nocks...I read somewhere(maybe here?) that is not a good idea. The idea behind that is that the shank of the G-nock is so small compared to the diameter of the shaft and the forces exurted on that little g-nock shank. I don't know if that is true or not, but I do know you don't see many Pro's shooting line cutters set-up with g-nocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
X-Jammers

Talked to DCM today and he said he is shooting his at 28" with 175 Gr. Points. I am shooting a 26.75" AMO draw and the 30" raw shaft set up is overhanging my tuner blade by 6". Got outside to shoot 20 yards at a 5 spot and they seem to fly very well but they are some pretty slow scuds. Doesn't take much to get a low shot. Someone told me that the 30 X Pins are a perfect fit on the X-Jammers so that is an option to consider. Still working with my draw length for indoors and such but so far, so good.
Jbird
 

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JBird---all 30X components are interchangeable with the X-Jammers

Brown Hornet---I am shooting a homemade BowTech Constitution, 31" draw. It is a hybrid of 05 and 06 Connie parts, and 06 Allegiance parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
X-Jammer Points

I am not too crazy about the weight system in the X-Jammer points. The screw in modules don't stay tight even with a little hot melt on them. I have had two of the weight modules snap off inside the arrow when they hit the target. Does anyone make one piece points to fit this shaft in the 175-200 grain range? What size points are offered for the 30X shafts since they are supposed to be the same size as X-Jammers? Until I find a better point I am going to take the weight modules out and just shoot them at 29" with the base 150 grain point.
Thanks,
Jbird
 

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Jbird said:
I am thinking going the shorter shaft approach. I am shooting about 46-48 pounds indoors at 26.5" draw length. If I cut to 1/4" past the tip of the blade I will have about a 24 3/4" raw shaft length. X-Jammers or 30X shafts are like shooting rebar at that length. I realize that you can tune to shoot those short shafts but with zero flex in the shaft, forgiveness, if there is any such thing with fat shafts, goes completely in the dumper. I plan to give these big boys a fair shot but I am going to compare them to my Fatboy 500's which I can get to spine and see what puts the most X's on the score card.
Jbird
JBird,
I don't know about X-jammers, since I shoot GoldTip arrows. However, I've spoken with Tim Gillingham at great length concerning tuning the 30X shafts (and in general ALL, full carbon shafts), and he told me that with the 30X shafts at my short drawlength and low poundage (46# peak), that I shouldn't have more than 1/2" of overhang past the launcher...even with a fallaway rest.

I did as he says, and things dramatically improved...and that INCLUDES my Ultralite Pro 500's grouping as well.

I would suggest cutting off three of your shafts to 1/2" to 1" overhang and try from there.

You and I at our short drawlengths and low poundages are NEVER going to get the fatter arrows properly spined anyways....and from what Tim tells me, people with shorter draws and lower poundages are having much better success with SHORTER arrows rather than longer arrows when it comes to the overhang and full carbon arrows......

Just my thoughts and experiences with the fat full carbon shafts and full carbon shafts in general.

You can get 150 grain points for the GoldTip 30X shafts...AND the GOLDTIP weight systems do NOT COME LOOSE EITHER....if you so choose to add any more weight to the points themselves.

I'm only shooting 150 grain points in my 30X shafts, and they are cut 1/2"" in front of the launcher blade...works just fine.

field14:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
F14

I guess I am going to have to break down and try this. Since we are shooting five spot leagues right now I hate to cut five of them off. I once cut some 2613 X-7's down to 26" with 150 grain points and they were super critical to shoot for me at that time. That was three years ago so maybe my form and holding ability has had a little improvement LOL. Anyone out there shooting X-Jammers cut just past the rest with 150 grain points?
Jbird
 

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Jbird said:
I guess I am going to have to break down and try this. Since we are shooting five spot leagues right now I hate to cut five of them off. I once cut some 2613 X-7's down to 26" with 150 grain points and they were super critical to shoot for me at that time. That was three years ago so maybe my form and holding ability has had a little improvement LOL. Anyone out there shooting X-Jammers cut just past the rest with 150 grain points?
Jbird

JBird,
REMEMBER...you are working with full CARBON arrows...they do NOT tune nor shoot like Aluminums do... The carbon arrows are much STIFFER, among other things.

Tim told me to shed my "aluminum arrow tuning" mentality when it came to carbons...with aluminums you can get away with a lot of 'overhang'....evidently, from what he says he and many others have experienced....NOT SO with full CARBON arrows.

I KNOW FOR A FACT that there are a LOT of GoldTip 30X shooters shooting their arrows just past the launcher with 150 grain points......and I also know a LOT that have tried a lot of overhang and heavier points...and couldn't get the results they expected out of them...and as soon as they cut them down and lightened up the point weight, things came in.

NOW...there of course are going to be exceptions that have gotten theirs to shoot with much heavier points and maybe longer lengths. I have heard rumblings that people with Longer DRAWLENGTHS can shoot with a tad more overhang and heavier points....but don't ask me why......

field14
 
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