When I practice I shoot downhill, so I'm kind of used to that downhill angle. I was aiming at a blank wall in the pictures, I'll try to take more with a more level position.
Yes I have a draw module, when I got the bow it was too long so I took it to Gander Mountain and Gary set me up with a shorter mod. I'm not sure if I can go shorter. I have a very small d-loop on the string.
I'll try unlocking my elbow. I have very short arms and I've shot a bow with a DL that was too long all my life now, that it's almost a habit and it feels weird to not have the elbow locked.
There are several schools of thought.
Not all coaches agree on this point.
In my opinion,
I prefer to make as few changes as possible.
You have a rather high facial anchor point...
the arrow is at the corner of your mouth.
This is unusual, but I have seen some shooters do this.
I would leave that alone for now.
Again, I also think your elbow is fine. I would leave that alone for now.
If you adjust the angle of the knuckles on your bow hand,
and keep the hand and fingers soft and relaxed,
that will help your shooting definitely.
The nock and consequently the vanes are very far back on your face.
Having contact on the face with the vanes will negatively affect
Having the nock that far back on your face
also makes it more difficult, but not impossible,
to shoot accurately.
When the release side forearm
is aiming up hill slightly,
while your arrow is clearly aiming downhill,
then that is a clear sign that the draw length module
is much too long for you.
If you were to raise the bow hand up,
so that the arrow was level,
then you would see that the angle of your release
arm is significantly up hill.
Again, basic biomechanics.
I would get a draw length module 1-inch shorter
than what you have in the picture.
After you get the 1-inch shorter module,
then I would use a portable bow press
and add twists to the top and bottom
bowstring end loops
to make very very fine adjustments
to the bowstring (make it shorter)
in order to make very tiny draw length adjustments
in the shorter direction,
one twist at a time.
This is a more advanced technique,
and you will not be able to see any change in drawlength,
but you will feel it in how the release fires.