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I want to start this thread to be a proactive/ongoing project. With over 26 thousand members....... I feel that all of us have something to offer the newbies, and the oldies around here. So............just post something that you feel could help our fellow archers out. Could be anything in relation to hunting, setups, shooting form, how you wash your clothes......................anything!

I'll start with I like to put some string wax on the threads of my field points and broadheads. Helps them screw in smoother...........not get rusted.........and they don't rattle loose near as easily during the shot process. :thumbs_up


So lets hear some tips!
 

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make sure your wifes knife stays sharp so its not to hard for her to clean up your deer!!
 

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I know my shooting became alot better after overhearing a tip. I heard the man say "No matter what, keep your focus on the impact point. Hold your form and watch the nock slide through the air to it's target. Then relax your form." There might of been more, but he was drunk and soon passed out! :rolleyes:
Fight the hype! I have shot a long time and find my best groups are due to confidence and not so much the set up. I shoot a variety of shaft weights, diameters, and fletching configerations. I have some carbons and aluminums in my quiver. I number the arrows and keep up with overall performance. For me, great shooting occurs in sets. I may shoot well one set and then the next shoot worse. The point is, that all the aluminums or carbons on a great set have super percision. The carbons might be high and a bit right, but they are stacked together. The aluminums are equal in persicion. My bow sights are set for the aluminums. They are usally the more consistent in accuracy, and that is with different arrow setups. The carbons shoot well, but noticably less consistent then the aluminums.
Making a routine that has a set after the shot has helped me. I now use the sound of the arrow hitting the target bag as my last step. I hold my form from release to the sound of impact. The whole time before release I focus on watching the nock fly without breaking form....that's step three.......hearing and seeing the arrow contact the target is the last step.
Man, I just babble and babbled...........
 

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qkdraw said:
I know my shooting became alot better after overhearing a tip. I heard the man say "No matter what, keep your focus on the impact point. Hold your form and watch the nock slide through the air to it's target. Then relax your form." There might of been more, but he was drunk and soon passed out! :rolleyes:
Fight the hype! I have shot a long time and find my best groups are due to confidence and not so much the set up. I shoot a variety of shaft weights, diameters, and fletching configerations. I have some carbons and aluminums in my quiver. I number the arrows and keep up with overall performance. For me, great shooting occurs in sets. I may shoot well one set and then the next shoot worse. The point is, that all the aluminums or carbons on a great set have super percision. The carbons might be high and a bit right, but they are stacked together. The aluminums are equal in persicion. My bow sights are set for the aluminums. They are usally the more consistent in accuracy, and that is with different arrow setups. The carbons shoot well, but noticably less consistent then the aluminums.
Making a routine that has a set after the shot has helped me. I now use the sound of the arrow hitting the target bag as my last step. I hold my form from release to the sound of impact. The whole time before release I focus on watching the nock fly without breaking form....that's step three.......hearing and seeing the arrow contact the target is the last step.
Man, I just babble and babbled...........
VERY GOOD! The best thing that hit me was the "concentrating on the target, Xring, bullseye or whatever and not the pin". Holding the pin right on the X ring is almost, if not impossible. If you concentrate where you want the arrow to go, it will, more times than not, go to where you want it to go. It works! Coming down to the target is important also. It's much easier to ease down using the weight of the bow to find the target than it is to come up to the target.
 

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Coat your broadheads with vasoline this will keep them from rusting in your quiver.
Check the wind constantly use windchecker, and add a piece of dental floss to your stabilizer. This will show direction as it frays will pick up the slightest breeze.
 

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I used to have problems with glue building up on the arms of my Bitz and Arizona EZ-Fletch feltching jigs. Especially with the plastic arms on the Arizona, scraping the glue off has, at times, been quite difficult without ruining the tool. I found that if I coat the tool with string wax, the glue does not have a place to stick and the tool functions better and lasts longer.

Automan
 

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Proper treestand behavior or frame of mind, I had to learn this the hard way, and its something you don't read alot about.
Ideally when the deer gets to where you want to shoot the only movement left to make is the draw or even the shot itself, all the moving getting ready to shoot, getting turned the right way putting down rattleing horns etc. needs to be done before!!! the deer gets there, this sounds simple while reading it here but in reality is vitally important to sucessfully killing deer with a bow.
For all of this to happen means that you have to see the deer as soon as he gets to where you can see him in other words by listening and doing slow 360's all the time you are in the stand.
You may get busted occasionally by the movement of turning to look for deer but I promise you by seeing them first your opportunity to make killing shots will double or triple. Joey S aka 308
 

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I keep a turkey call close to my mouth and just chirp when I'm ready to shoot "Mr. Buck". I have yet to scare a deer this way. It's a natural sound they hear everyday. The arrow passing through there chest on the other hand is priceless. :teeth:
 

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"Don't over think it, you might outsmart yourself"
GRIV
 

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Old timer told me

.10 cents worth of talent. Will not help you with a $1000.00 bow :D
 

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Feeding the end of a new spool of serving thread through the final hole of a serving jig is like trying to push a cooked noodle through a keyhole. To avoid that hassle, just apply a thin coat of Fletch-Tite (or similar cement) to about an inch of the thread-end and let it harden. It will then be easy to pass through that final hole.

Also, when marking a bowstring for nock and peepsight placement, use tailor's chalk. It rubs right off to avoid mistakes and confusion later on.
 

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Broadheads

Apply a light coat of wd-40 to your broadheads before putting them in your quiver. It will help prevent rust as the season progresses.
Also, when you finish hunting on a cold day, pull the arrows out of the quiver and let them warm up and dry before re-inserting them into them quiver. Condensation buildup at the end of a cold weather hunt will also rust your broadheads.
 

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When shooting Spots...

Dont look at the dot.
Dont lood at the white.
Dont even look at the X ring.

When you draw down on the X, you look & you aim at the middle of the X.

and nothing else
 

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When you're hunting willy ladder climbing Black Bear with your bow, always have an escape plan! :eek:
 

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keep that bow arm up till you hear or see the arrow strike the target or game. Good follow thru is a most if you want to be in the top 5% of archers...
 

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Teach someone everything THEY know, not everything YOU know.
 
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