Well I am new to archery, so I am archery stupid still. I have a new AM32 and have shot it about 300 times and I figure it is time to wax my string. I got some Bohning Tex Tite wax from the archery shop here. I did a search on here and did not really come up with much other than arguments over what wax to use. But it sounds like I just take my wax, gently rub it onto the string, and then using my fingers, work the wax into the string fibers. Then take a cloth of some sort and wipe off any excess. That sound about right before I go applying this 3 dollar product to my 750 dollar bow, sure would hate to screw it up!
ajstrider
winners choice has a silicon based wax and string clearner out that works really well and its only about $10-$15
Try Scorpion Venom.
About $10 for a chapstick sized tube.
It's a liquid based wax that you apply and let dry.
It's a lot cleaner than the gloopy traditional wax.
About $10 for a chapstick sized tube.
It's a liquid based wax that you apply and let dry.
It's a lot cleaner than the gloopy traditional wax.
wax
the question was how often do you wax. some archers wax every time they shoot, some once a week, as a string maker I suggest as often as you can, it does not hurt only helps. rub it in if you have a small piece of leather this works great the heat from rubing melts the wax into your strands. fingers work also but not as good.
the question was how often do you wax. some archers wax every time they shoot, some once a week, as a string maker I suggest as often as you can, it does not hurt only helps. rub it in if you have a small piece of leather this works great the heat from rubing melts the wax into your strands. fingers work also but not as good.
And you did again...
Fellas, READ what the man asked, he's not looking for a debate on what, he's looking for a HOW:
you have it right....
add one more step, CLEANING the strings first.. take a strand of extra string and loop it around the string to be cleaned a few time, hold both ends and pull it along the length of the string.
to re-wax, smear it on, fold a piece of leather/cloth over the string and rub it briskly, it will get hot, fast, Hot enough to burn fingers without the leather pad! pie off excess.
I had that you could use your wife's hair dryer to slightly over the strings to melt the wax then rub it in. Is this ok to do? I have been doing this for that last few times. Works great! I just want to make sure that I am not hurting the string.
I ONCE cranked the heat up to "high" and got the nozzle a wee bit too close to the string..... had to make a replacements string 
How to Wax
This is very simple and you should be applauded for wanting to learn. The string is everthing to an archer. I use either Winners Choice Wax or Daltons Wax. Try to stay with silicone based wax. As was previously stated, clean the string first to remove the grit and grime. Winners Choice string cleaner is a great way to go. First, apply the cleaner and let sit for approximately 3-5 minutes and then wipe clean with a clean cloth. Then apply the wax to the string. After applying, vigorously rub the wax into the string as if you wanted it to melt and get into all of the fibers...you want this to happen. If you want to apply it to the serving you can but that is not necessary. How often? I do a thorough clean and re-wax about once every two weeks as I shoot about 200 arrows during that time. But, if I go to an outdoor shoot, the string is cleaned and re-waxed first thing after the shoot. The new strings on the market are made of a very long lasting material but you need to keep up with them. Hope this helps. Cheers!
This is very simple and you should be applauded for wanting to learn. The string is everthing to an archer. I use either Winners Choice Wax or Daltons Wax. Try to stay with silicone based wax. As was previously stated, clean the string first to remove the grit and grime. Winners Choice string cleaner is a great way to go. First, apply the cleaner and let sit for approximately 3-5 minutes and then wipe clean with a clean cloth. Then apply the wax to the string. After applying, vigorously rub the wax into the string as if you wanted it to melt and get into all of the fibers...you want this to happen. If you want to apply it to the serving you can but that is not necessary. How often? I do a thorough clean and re-wax about once every two weeks as I shoot about 200 arrows during that time. But, if I go to an outdoor shoot, the string is cleaned and re-waxed first thing after the shoot. The new strings on the market are made of a very long lasting material but you need to keep up with them. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Thanks for getting past the arguing and to my question. I will get some better wax when I find some for sale, so the wax arguing was a bit useful. I appreciate you guys answering my newbie question! I am quite adament about cleaning and taking care of my guns, so I know how to do that, but a bow is different!
bohning's seal-tite has silicone in it. seal-tite is more geared for the blended material strings and costs less than $4.
tex-tite will work just fine. no need to spend more than you need to on something. guys just love spendin someone else's money
tex-tite will work just fine. no need to spend more than you need to on something. guys just love spendin someone else's money
I use Bohning Tex Tite wax too, but I'm looking for fluid wax because when it's cold out there, my wax doesn't work really good.
The wax you have will work but the others mentioned are softer and work in better. Make sure your hands are clean or you string will get dirty looking. Wouldn't use the hair dryer personally after reading a thread once in here about how bad heat can be on the string. If you use the leather Id be carefull to. You can build up a lot of heat with leather to, heat and friction are not friends of the string.
Taking some thick cotton string (mason's string, etc), looping around the string and running it back and forth on that section does a good job working in the wax and burnishing the string bundle if you don't have any old string material. Doing it lightly before waxing will also remove an amazing amount of dirt. If out in windy or dirty conditions, using a cleaner first to get out any grit will help eliminate any strand against strand wear. I do mine once a week (about 250 - 300 shots), but probably should be doing it more often.
Go
Go
Lol I was curious myself. My buddy told me he uses a piece of dental floss to help burnish the string and rub in the new wax. The dental floss breaks from heat way before the strings would ever be damaged is what I was told. How true is that? I don't know bug it sounds good in theory. I'll try it next go around
Shouldn't be waxing at all. If it is looking like it needs wax then it should be replaced. Lots of great affordable strings out there.
Another newbie question: wouldn't the wax (beeswax or silicone based) act as an attractant for fine particles (some airborne) and etc. that could negatively affect string life?
As a compound shooter, what are the key points on the string that wax should be applied? I'm a newbie been shooting for 6 months now and maintenance is something that I need more knowledge in.
thanks,
thanks,
Jake,
Typically only wax where it is not served. As far as waxing vs replacing. I won't pass judgement on someone who replaces their string when it looks worn rather than waxing it regularly to keep it from getting that way.
I purchased my Switchback XT in 2007 and I had the string replaced in 2009. Been shooting it ever since.
Typically only wax where it is not served. As far as waxing vs replacing. I won't pass judgement on someone who replaces their string when it looks worn rather than waxing it regularly to keep it from getting that way.
I purchased my Switchback XT in 2007 and I had the string replaced in 2009. Been shooting it ever since.
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