Could VERY WELL be the spine.
I had horrible problems trying to get spine right with my E35. Anytime arrow weight over 400gr I ran into all kinds of headaches..... Was forced to shoot a lighter hunting arrow than I wanted. ( I personally feel the E35 is NOT the world's most shootable bow... I think it's a really torque prone grip. My CD34 much better.)

For the E35 (DL 29.5, 62#) I ended up shooting CE maxima red 350 and seemed to get the elite set up. Prior I had victory rip elite 300. Couldn't get axis 340 to tune and shop and I ended up having to shoot bow for 4 hrs with different arrows and had issues... I still think it has some cam lean and on binary system that =pita
Agree that you should be stacking arrows at 20 so something might be off
Also arrows get spendy...... Which is frustrating
I would
-see if your local shop will sell you 2-3 arrows of a different spine
-or try a cheaper arrow of a different spine like at cabelas where they cut/make for free and you could get one of their stiffer spines half dozen for $40
-Make sure DL is good... Consider different DL on your CD34 and work on form..... FYI changing DL mods can change cam timing, at least it did on my dfx cam#3
Paper tune first to get close then shoot some bareshaft at 10-20 yds... If bareshaft groups consistently together (not necessarily with your field point but you can group them) then you'll know you have form/torque likely fixed and can see if hitting left or right to trouble shoot spine
If bareshaft flying everywhere then may need to take a step back and reassess
Hope that helps but that's what I did recently and it got me very very close to good tune with field points to 60yds.... Haven't BH tuned yet ....but I spent the better part of 2 yrs trying to get my E35 dialed in with broadheads

 

Sure you transferred all the data after typing in the specs?

 

tagged

 

Good stuff Idaho, I'll try your suggestions.

Wolfie, I'm using my iPhone, when I first punched in the info for Black Eagle Rampage 350 and my setup it said "optimal spine"
I went back a while later and I'm getting different results, not sure what's going on but AA also lists the BE Rampages as a .244 OD not .204? Maybe the software is compatible with my iPhone?

 

You gotta make sure you change bows and everything is right. I had trouble the first few times but I got it straight and it was accurate after I entered it correctly.
You should be able to tune the 400 to the Defiant. Not sure how the elites like their shafts, stiffer or weak ok. I am shooting a marginal shaft from my Nitrum Turbo. Have a little cam lean at rest but it tunes real well.


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I think there is a problem with the software or it's not correct - I'm shooting a 60lb limb CD34 and it will not let me enter limb or cam info. It's listing the IBO for this Hoyt at 341FPS - the 70lb limbs aren't putting out 331 so if I can adjust some of the info it should get me close.

I'm using a TruGlo Range Rover Pro sight, doesn't appear I can make sight tapes for this either.

 

As a comparison, I just ran your specs for a CD34 using FMJ 340s and 400s on OT2/SFAX. That software shows the 340 between good and stiff and the 400 between good and weak.

 

Spine is not the culprit when shooting at 20 yards. As long as your arrows are stiff enough and have decent size fletching, you can tune and shoot any spine up to 250 or 200 stiffness very well to 50-60 yards.

 

I should clarify..... With broadheads.. I did have issues with spine tune and broadheads, subtle at 20 yds.. But it was there

 

I always calculate the speed from an arrow calculator and enter it into the "sight in" tab under chronograph setting. I have found

http://archerycalculator.com/estimate-bow-speed/

To be very close in speed to my chronograph if you enter good accurate values.

It will then use this velocity in the shaft selection tab and may bchange your spine choice

Also, you could just trim your Easton arrows, 1/2" might be enough in the program to give you optimum spine

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Try 125g points in the 340/350 spine arrows. I do not use software, I bare shaft (thru paper and at 20) every 1 pound increment and keep a record of what they are doing. This is a very cheap and effective way (other than your time, but you like shooting, right?) I have found as little as 1 pound makes a difference.
I have a 31" draw and shoot a 29" shaft, with a 100 grain glue in 400 spine does best at 52 pounds. I shoot 350's at 55-57 pounds.
I shoot 350's cut to 30" with 130 grains at 53 pounds for ASA 3D (286 speed limit)
I hunt with 350 spine 29" with 60g inserts and 125g fixed broad heads at 52 pounds, with a 100g head at 55 pounds. 300 spine w/125's at 56 pounds and 100g at 59 pounds.
Hope this helps.
Hoyt CS 34 ZT and Elite E 35. Which bow does not seem to matter, hope this helps.

 

I can't seem to get this program to work, I punch in my values earlier and it said "optimum spine" now tonite I'm getting different results. I'm going to look for a new site - I'll check out the site Evan suggested.

I double checked my shafts - they are slightly less than 28.75, so that is shorter than I originally measured.

 

I was dealing with a similar situation with a 300 being too stiff and a 340 being two weak with a given length and 100 grain tips. I did not feel like I was getting the accuracy I should. I shortened the arrows and went to 125 grain tips and bingo the grouping just came right in. I paper tuned and was shooting perfect bullet holes and I shot arrows no fletching along side of fletched arrows and they were just stacking. I was amazed yet very pleased. Some times a combination of a couple little things together can make a big difference.

 

Just logged in to AA online and compared their calculations with what I actually get and it seems to me that it is not very accurate. In one case it was pretty close but another was quite a bit off.

 

Not sure if this helps, I’m shooting defiant turbo 28” dl, 55#, 28” 5mm fmj 340 100 grain heads and it tuned perfectly by yoke tuning. Has some cam lean at rest. That turbo cam is pretty aggressive. Prolly shooting around 290fps. I’m gonna crank it up to 60# after season and try to get it to tune with 340s. I have some 300s just in case as well.

 

I have a stupid question here, what software are you using? and what is the cost of the software? Thank you for your help. Sorry didn't mean to highjack the thread.

 

I have used the online archers advantage...... It's like 1 dollar per month

 

AA is a great program. As in most programs it depends on how accurate your input is. Have used it at Redding and Field shoots successfully. Sight marks right on - my shooting a little less so! My only question is that one needs to calibrate the program for correct arrow selection, as I read it, by inputting a correct arrow for your set-up. Question being-“How does one know a correct arrow to start with?”

 

Question being-“How does one know a correct arrow to start with?”

I would think that would be a completed arrow that you have been able to tune perfectly to your bow set-up (paper, bare shaft, walk back, etc.) and has proven to be very forgiving.

 

After playing with the software some more I realized you have to log out every so often to reset the program.
I decided to go with Rampage 350's cut just under 28.75(about 28.6999) with my 29" draw I'm going to use the Easton Brass HITs - 50grain inserts. Thus the reason for backing my limbs down to 57lbs, should even back them down a lil more but I like my arrow speed to be at least 270FPS. This will be close to %13 FOC, my groups are tighter with a higher FOC.

I plan on shooting my Bear Motive 6 at between 70-72lbs, was looking at the new Axis Match grade shafts. Anyone try these out yet?

 

You could also do John Dudley's HIL tuning. Basically shoot at the longest distance you feel comfortable with and either change out the points from 75, 100 and 125 or add and remove a couple turns off your limbs. This will simulate a weaker and stiffer spine. See which one groups the best.

 

Mad 6, contact the writers/sellers of any spine chart or spine program and ask them for the scientific formula they use to work out the "optimum spine" for a bow, if they give you an honest reply you are in for a surprise.
All the arrows you mentioned will tune perfectly with your bow, if you are having problems you need to see a reputable bow tuner or form coach.

 

Carbon Express calculator lists .600 Nano-Pro to my setup (50lbs - 28" DL) 27" arrow up to 120gn point. If I punch the same numbers to AA Online, where I have really accurate setup for my bow, I get optimum spine for .500 spine. C-E calculated rating .600 is listed as way too weak. Same goes for other arrows as well. My outdoor/field arrows are by definition too weak (.570 ACE, 27", 100gn point) but group best on 30m and longer. And I have not seen them being off on field round shots under 30m. Any shot gone bad is because I let them go poorly. I'm with the starter of this post that AA gives too stiff results, at least to me.

Also supporting this theory is that I have some .500 Carbon One arrows that are 26.22 in length with 100gn points. So on the stiff side. Up close they are fine. (tough as nails too) But on longer shots, 50m+ they open up. Ten becomes a mid nine. Only perfect shots hit ten ring. Switch back to .570 ACEs and I'm shooting 58-59/60.

 

I have had all kinds of problems with the online version of Archers Advantage being grossly inaccurate an inconsistent. I also find that their databases are not up to date.