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Straightness in carbon arrows is not nearly as important as spine consistency is. I'd wager that the average archer wouldn't be able to tell the difference between .001 and .006 if the spine were held to the same tolerances.

Aluminum arrows are a diiferent story... very important to have them straight.
I agree
 
I have noticed that over time...(shorter than I hoped) spine does weaken (at least in one brand I shot...but I am sure this is not unique)...

as for cutting opposite ends...I have heard that it helps...

I personally cannot tell the difference between .005 and .001 arrows...but I hope to be good enough one day...
 
funny you should ask

I had a dozen high end shafts that were all very good on the spin test , all were identical weight and length, I was not concerned about the spine back then. I shot those arrows for a while with very mixed results thinking human error, before I was asked to shoot with a Friend, and all I had was my 3/D set up.We were shooting spot inside the local club and I began to see a pattern in my shots .... Boy "I said out loud" I suck I haven't done this for a while...lol I could barley get 3 out of 5 in the X every time .....that is not like me! I went to a Friends and told him at least 4 of my shafts were junk he told me I was on crack ....lol . A few weeks go buy and a mutual Friend brings over this very cool contraption (hooter shooter) and I just happened to have those particular shafts with me and we tested them and much to my joy those 4 shafts were the culprit, they were the fault of my poor scores on the 3/D range and at the club that day.... Don't let this happen to you...it really made me feel bad, my scores were terrible, even though every shot felt great! Wow what an eye opener. I since try to spine test every arrow in any quiver being for hunting spot or 3/D.
 
Straightness in carbon arrows is not nearly as important as spine consistency is. I'd wager that the average archer wouldn't be able to tell the difference between .001 and .006 if the spine were held to the same tolerances.

Aluminum arrows are a diiferent story... very important to have them straight.
I agree... also straightness would make more of a difference with broadheads than with field points... I mean we're talking about a thousands of an inch, who here even knows how to measure that properly? as long as spine is consitiance then you are good. There are to many factors to consider for weight.... besides how many know how much a grain weights? not much at all...
 
I have noticed that over time...(shorter than I hoped) spine does weaken (at least in one brand I shot...but I am sure this is not unique)...

as for cutting opposite ends...I have heard that it helps...

I personally cannot tell the difference between .005 and .001 arrows...but I hope to be good enough one day...
And that can only help for some arrows. Some like the weight forwarding one from carbon express and the taper easton arrows have to be cut from the insert end...

also here is a good report...

http://www.carbontecharrows.com/main/arrow-spine-weight-and-straightness/
 
I have several sets of arrows from .0008" straightness to .003" straightness. It just so happens that my worst grouping arrows out to 80 yards are my Easton Axis 300's. Is it a coincidence that they are the only .003" straightness arrows I have? I have no idea. I do know that spine consistency is probably more important. My FMJ's are supposed to be .002", and they are more accurate than my regular Axis. My Victory Vforce V1's are .001" and are more accurate than my FMJ's. My TR Crush are supposed to be .0008", and while they are more accurate than the Axis and the FMJ's, they are about the same as the Victory's. The most accurate arrows I have are the CX Maxima Hunter 350's, and they are .0025". I base all this on 1000's of shots with each and mostly at 40-80 yards. You definitely start to see patterns over time.
 
Straightness vs Spine

I also believe that Spine has more to do with "tight groups" than the arrows straightness (.001 vs .003). I buy the .003 and cut 1.5 " off the front and rear, square them up, and build. I can't tell the difference shooting 80 yards groups between them.

I shoot each arrow thru paper, and make sure they all make the exact tear..bullethole the same. If one does not, I rotate the pin nock 120 degrees, and shoot it again. If it still is off, I rotage it again 120 degrees. Most of the time, it will tune with the rest of the arrows.

This is why I use the same color fletching on all 3 vanes.
 
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