Paper tuning is a "snapshot" of what the arrow is doing at X distance. Your progression to bare shaft tuning is a much more critical and precise assessment. What is the problem of moving your rest 1/32" to see if it helps or diminishes your results? Factory specs are a baseline, not written in stone. Is your brace height and ATA precisely what the recommend.....or close? Every bow has tolerances and every archer adds form variables.....either accept that and work wit it.....or not.

 

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I have only locked on the yoke as an adjustment since some readings on the forum. That seemed to prefer yoke adjustment over rest adjustment away from that center shot.Not dead set against moving the rest Matthews says +\- 1/16” so I have room to play in that. Is it better than using the yoke, or more preferred? Just easier? I have measured the ATA recently and it’s very close to right at 31”. I can’t say about the brace height.

 

Hows the tail of the arrow look in relation to the fletched? If you have a microtune rest just click her 2 clicks right and see what happens, worst case no big change and if you don't care to play with it more go back 2 clicks and you're back to where you started and call it a day there.

Bareshafts don't have to be perfect for a bow to shoot well

 

They are reasonably close to parallel shooting inside into a layers foam block target.

 

A week or so ago I tried yoke tune for the first time with remarkable results. From maybe 8 feet I had bullet holes with both fletched and bareshaft arrow.
I have now moved back to 20 yds and have been shooting the fletched arrow and bareshaft side by side. Just in block. The bareshaft consistently is left nearly 3 inches. Basically straight left. I am trying not to mess with the rest. It’s basically at 13/16”. Matthews Z7 27” draw probably 63 to 65 lb draw weight. Gold tip hunter XT 300 28” long with 150 grains or so in the front. I am probably close to being strong on the spine according to charts.
Would another yoke adjustment make sense in this scenario?

Paper tuning from one distance isn't good enough. I use 6, 8, 10, 12 and sometimes even 15 feet. I want a bullet hole at every distance. I want to know what my arrow is doing.......

 

Shoot multiple bare shaft arrows... You would be amazed at how often they can vary. Replace the nock, and you will see it change more often than not.

 

1000%

 

It will be next to impossible to get fletch and bare to hit together without micro tuning using your arrow rest. 300 spine is stiff for your set up. Stiff arrows yield little to no forgiveness in form, release ,face pressure etc. Arrows oscillate (flex) in flight when leaving the bow, proper spine initiates a more forgiving oscillation.

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Since you shoot fletched arrows just worry about those

Bare shaft tuning is really just a waste of time. It's got a different foc different spine different velocity different weight.

 

Turn your phone on slo mo and record the arrow launch from behind you. You will be amazed at what you see with the arrow flight. I shoot through paper, then bareshaft at 20 and 40 if weather permits, then I visually watch the flight of a fletched arrow at 60 yards with the naked eye and in slo mo.

 

Walk back tuning with fletched arrows is the next step after paper tuning for me. Then I don’t look at paper again.

 

So the goal is to get every arrow to hit the same point of impact but it’s really not going to happen. This is why we shoot groups. We take averages and we omit the shots we know were bad, and we select hunting arrows out of our builds that fly best with BHs. When you’re tuning it’s really good to use more than one arrow to give you a better understanding of what’s happening. I have started nock tuning my arrows with BHs on them. Almost every one will have a clear orientation that flies the best when compared to a field point. So you turn the nock until each fletch is shot in the upward position and watch how different they fly. Literally inches can be cleaned up my simply doing this. My current build I took it one step more and nock tuned the bare shaft so it impacts the target at 20 yards with what closest resembles a fletched arrow sticking straight out of the target. Now that they are nock tuned they will then be fletched scooting to their predetermined best flight. We ask a lot of our fletching. Doing this and tuning the bow reduces the amount we are asking the fletching to correct and gives us our most consistent arrows possible. This can take good groups and make them great groups. It can add some yardage to your “effective range” before opening up to much. It can reduce the number of “fliers” we get where some arrows just don’t play nice. If you’re going to build them yourself take these precautions and you will end up with great arrows and have an easier time tuning your bow as a whole

 

One distance is not enough. 8 ft is not far enough back either. Read what sonnythomas wrote. When I bare shaft tune I start at about 5 yards and work my way back to 10 yards and that is the shortest distance I use. Most of the time I bare shaft through paper all the way to 20 yards.

 

A week or so ago I tried yoke tune for the first time with remarkable results. From maybe 8 feet I had bullet holes with both fletched and bareshaft arrow.
I have now moved back to 20 yds and have been shooting the fletched arrow and bareshaft side by side. Just in block. The bareshaft consistently is left nearly 3 inches. Basically straight left. I am trying not to mess with the rest. It’s basically at 13/16”. Matthews Z7 27” draw probably 63 to 65 lb draw weight. Gold tip hunter XT 300 28” long with 150 grains or so in the front. I am probably close to being strong on the spine according to charts.
Would another yoke adjustment make sense in this scenario?

Shooting through paper is only a starting point for tuning. I've never had a bow that shot a bullet hole through paper AND stack a bareshaft/fixed broadheads with a field point.

I have spent countless hours trying to get both a "Bullet Hole" and "BH hitting with Field Points" only realize I'd been chasing my tail.

I've tuned dozens of bows to do this:

None of them will also shoot a bullet hole through paper... some are "close" but none were "perfect".

So, my advice... don't worry about "ruining" your paper tune.... make the adjustments you need from here to get bareshaft/broadheads to hit with your field points.

 

Sounds like you are very close if bare is straight and just a bit left of fletched. Very small adjustment to correct. It is up to you as to whether you want to yoke tune or move the rest, both will get you there.
Someone above said to move the rest right a couple clicks...with bare hitting left of field points the rest actually needs to be moved to the left a bit if you choose to move the rest. Yoke tuning you would treat it like a nock right tear.

I am absolutely sold on bare shaft tuning. Back when I knew little about tuning I would just paper tune my bow at a shop and never touch it after that. I always had to adjust my sights when I sighted in for hunting with fixed BH's, they never shot the same POI as field points. Ever. I missed a lot of grouse because I'd have to hold my pin off to one side to hit them with a field point/Adder point or blunt setup. I love being able to bare shaft tune so I'm not tearing up my targets and then seeing the result of fixed BH's flying to the same spot as well. I can hold my pin right on for grouse, or when I just want to have a range session during the 3 months that my bow needs to be sighted in for hunting. Love it.

 

I did move my rest about a 1/16” left yesterday. I am closer. The bareshaft does have a little nock right (tear) yet compared to the fletched. I do believe I am going to add half a twist to the right and take out half twist in the left to see what I achieve.

 

I'd recommend going a whole twist or two and see where that takes your tear.
If that goes too far you can always take twists back out.
No sense creeping and creeping up on the spot you want with a bunch of 1/2 twists when you can over shoot it slightly then back it off to perfect in two adjustments. That is unless you have a lot of time.

 

A week or so ago I tried yoke tune for the first time with remarkable results. From maybe 8 feet I had bullet holes with both fletched and bareshaft arrow.
I have now moved back to 20 yds and have been shooting the fletched arrow and bareshaft side by side. Just in block. The bareshaft consistently is left nearly 3 inches. Basically straight left. I am trying not to mess with the rest. It’s basically at 13/16”. Matthews Z7 27” draw probably 63 to 65 lb draw weight. Gold tip hunter XT 300 28” long with 150 grains or so in the front. I am probably close to being strong on the spine according to charts.
Would another yoke adjustment make sense in this scenario?

If your bareshafts are straight in the target try moving the rest a shade.
I quit using a paper tuner at all, and I used to all the time.
My advice is shoot bareshafts all you can. Pay attention to how your shot feels.
I now bareshaft back to 40 yards with great results.

Bareshafts and distance will tell you more than paper ever could at close distance....as long as weather is good.
BTW my 9 and 11 year old shot a lot of bareshafts to get their bows tuned. They are now 11 and 14 and stack them in there.

If you CAN"T get the bareshafts and your fletched to hit the same POI then your fletched are to blame...probably vane contact.
I have seen rotating the cock feather from 90 degrees staright up to leaning it 15 degrees in towards the riser move the POI of
fletched arrows almost 11" at 30 yards. I discovered that by shooting bareshafts ONLY out to 40 yards and getting them 100% straight in the target.
Like three bareshafts touching at 40 yards dead straight in the 10 ring. My fletched were only 3" from my bareshafts at 20, then they ended up 11" left of the bareshafts.

That is when I knew that bareshafts can't lie, but your fletched can.

 

Lots of ways to tune. We all have what we think are best. Lots of good, and bad information out there.

After years of shooting and tuning ( or trying), my conclusion today is that paper tuning is not worth my time. It’s not wrong as a starting place, it’s just doesn’t yield much value.

I am primarily a hunter, so how my broad head flies is the end goal for tuning.

My experience is that if I can get a bare shaft to impact with and be parallel to my field points at 20 yards, any decent broad head will impact with field points within any hunting distance.

 

Most people don't have bows that are out of tune... they're out of tune. Bareshafts are a great tool for pointing that out.