[dleach1407]

Update:
My kids have been shooting the Royales a couple weeks now and are settling in so I had them shoot through paper to see how things look.
Both kids shot perfect bullets. No bad tears to fix at all. I was pretty sure I saw some arrow flight issues but that may be due to their form.
That's with all stock equipment. I did have them walk back tune when sighting them in so that may have tuned the center shot pretty well.
They are both shooting a little irregularly, with some fly aways but I attribute that to form as well as them just being kids and fairly new to the sport of course.
Got to say, I'm impressed

I know this is an older thread but there isnt much info about these on here. I just picked one up for my niece which arrived today. They definitely need some tuning out of the box. The cams were 3 or 4 twists out of time with each other and one cable had almost no twists in it. I just equalized the twists on the cables and then pulled a few twists out of the yoke to keep axle to axle within spec. The yoke cables were over-twisted for sure on one cable. The manual leaves a lot to be desired in relation to estimated draw length vs draw weight with the limbs out 12 turns. The book said 12 turns out at 22" draw length it would be between 16 and 20 lbs. it was nowhere near that amount. The string was so loose I could literally pull it off the cams by hand. I ended up adding 4 turns per limb to get it up to 19lbs. The biggest problem I had with setting it up was having to add a slight amount of cam lean to both cams to get the cables to stop making a clicking sound when coming to full draw. The angle of the cables vs the angle of the mods was causing the cable to be pulled over and then clicking when it slid into the groove on the module. I added a tiny bit of cam lean and that problem went away. I put some arrows through it today and was able to shoot 1 inch groups at 10 yards with the super short draw length and my 340 spine arrows which are way too stiff. I gonna pick up some 600 spine arrows tomorrow and plan on paper tuning it before I hand it over. All in all its not a bad little bow. Its super light which my niece will appreciate. She is really skinny and doesn't have a ton of upper body strength. Anyone else experience the clicking sound from the cables?

 

[cheesecurds]

I know this is an older thread but there isnt much info about these on here. I just picked one up for my niece which arrived today. They definitely need some tuning out of the box. The cams were 3 or 4 twists out of time with each other and one cable had almost no twists in it. I just equalized the twists on the cables and then pulled a few twists out of the yoke to keep axle to axle within spec. The yoke cables were over-twisted for sure on one cable. The manual leaves a lot to be desired in relation to estimated draw length vs draw weight with the limbs out 12 turns. The book said 12 turns out at 22" draw length it would be between 16 and 20 lbs. it was nowhere near that amount. The string was so loose I could literally pull it off the cams by hand. I ended up adding 4 turns per limb to get it up to 19lbs. The biggest problem I had with setting it up was having to add a slight amount of cam lean to both cams to get the cables to stop making a clicking sound when coming to full draw. The angle of the cables vs the angle of the mods was causing the cable to be pulled over and then clicking when it slid into the groove on the module. I added a tiny bit of cam lean and that problem went away. I put some arrows through it today and was able to shoot 1 inch groups at 10 yards with the super short draw length and my 340 spine arrows which are way too stiff. I gonna pick up some 600 spine arrows tomorrow and plan on paper tuning it before I hand it over. All in all its not a bad little bow. Its super light which my niece will appreciate. She is really skinny and doesn't have a ton of upper body strength. Anyone else experience the clicking sound from the cables?

Sorry for digging up this old post but I recently got my 10 year old daughter a Bear Royale bow. I honestly don't know much about "tuning" bows as I have had mine for 15 years and never really adjusted much on it since I've gotten it - hence the questions.

Like you stated I can see that some of the cables definitely have more or less twists in them than others...where do I start with adjusting this thing or is there a simple beginners guide you'd recommend I follow?

 

[dleach1407]

It's the same as any other yoke tuned bow but I'll give you my recommendations. The first thing i did was to set the twists in the cables about the same so they matched the twist ratio in the string. Then i did the same thing for the yokes. I adjusted cam lean so the cams were equal. I lay arrows on the back side of the cams and make sure the arrows intersect at the berger hole about 1.5 inches from the string. Then add or remove twists equally to the cables and yokes to get it in axle to axle. Once it was in spec, I cranked the weight up and put about 25 shots through it to settle the strings/cables. Then i checked timing and adjusted the cables until timing was exact. The flat spots on the back of the modules should touch the cables at the same time. Then i shot it again to settle the cables, and repeated the process until timing was good after 25 shots. I verified a2a again and adjusted cables equally and then shot it and verified timing. You may need to do this a bunch of times depending how far out of spec it is. Once i had timing and axle to axle where i wanted it, I set the rest so the arrow was parallel with the riser per the manual and at a 90 degree angle to the string and shot it through paper. I adjusted the yokes according to the left/right tear and adjusted the nock height for up and down. If the arrow is square to the string and timing is right, you shouldn't need to move the nock point much if at all. After it was all done i cranked the weight back up shot a bunch of arrows through it and checked timing one last time. Took me about 2 hours to get the initial setup perfect.

 

[cheesecurds]

It's the same as any other yoke tuned bow but I'll give you my recommendations. The first thing i did was to set the twists in the cables about the same so they matched the twist ratio in the string. Then i did the same thing for the yokes. I adjusted cam lean so the cams were equal. I lay arrows on the back side of the cams and make sure the arrows intersect at the berger hole about 1.5 inches from the string. Then add or remove twists equally to the cables and yokes to get it in axle to axle. Once it was in spec, I cranked the weight up and put about 25 shots through it to settle the strings/cables. Then i checked timing and adjusted the cables until timing was exact. The flat spots on the back of the modules should touch the cables at the same time. Then i shot it again to settle the cables, and repeated the process until timing was good after 25 shots. I verified a2a again and adjusted cables equally and then shot it and verified timing. You may need to do this a bunch of times depending how far out of spec it is. Once i had timing and axle to axle where i wanted it, I set the rest so the arrow was parallel with the riser per the manual and at a 90 degree angle to the string and shot it through paper. I adjusted the yokes according to the left/right tear and adjusted the nock height for up and down. If the arrow is square to the string and timing is right, you shouldn't need to move the nock point much if at all. After it was all done i cranked the weight back up shot a bunch of arrows through it and checked timing one last time. Took me about 2 hours to get the initial setup perfect.

Wow this is great, thanks for the help!

 

[Skyydyyver]

Glad to see this thread get some use!
My experience was similar to dleach1407's except the two weren't too far out of spec. Timing needed adjusting and arrow squared with string and riser, although if I remember right you can't fully adjust the OEM rest.
one bow I twisted up the string to try to get the peep twist out so my son could shoot without the peep aligning rubber tube.
I got it so the rotation was the same and aligned when at full draw but couldn't get rid of rotation. Very frustrating for a brand new bow, strings are too cheap.
The kids shoot pretty well with just basic adjustments, you will need a bow press to make the string twists of course.

 

[Thurston_Ryan]

My 6 year old son has been shooting a Royale for 4 months now and it is a really impressive bow. I left it stock. 18” draw length 15-18 # range. He’s shooting victory VAP 800s and they are perfect.

 

[Skyydyyver]

My 6 year old son has been shooting a Royale for 4 months now and it is a really impressive bow. I left it stock. 18” draw length 15-18 # range. He’s shooting victory VAP 800s and they are perfect.

The vaps are a good choice but I've switched to the 3dhv and feel like the kids will gain some distance from the lighter weight and the price for the v6's ($10/shaft) is very budget friendly!

 

[Thurston_Ryan]

The vaps are a good choice but I've switched to the 3dhv and feel like the kids will gain some distance from the lighter weight and the price for the v6's ($10/shaft) is very budget friendly!

This is great to know! My son is enjoying shooting his own arrows and has broken several and Robin hooded one… I’m proud but also don’t want to keep paying for new VAPs.