When you twist the right side of a yoke you lean the top of the cam left and that corrects a right tear, why? Because you are leaning the top of the cam to the left and that moves the entire bow string to the left and this moves the power stroke of the bow in that direction. Same is true on the bottom cam, when you do one cam at a time you move the string over only on that end of the bow and only half as much and at a angle. When you do the top and bottom of the bow at the same time you move the bow string over in that direction more equally and not at a angle.

 

With a bowtech that has yokes on top and bottom you normally just set both cams the same top and bottom and then yoke tune both of them in the direction at the same time. With a hybrid you basically have to live with the bottom cam setting and see if you can yoke tune the top and get a decent result where there is no stupid cam lean issue. If there is a stupid cam lean issue then you reset the top and shim the lower cam over and start over up top.

 

My top cam lean is pre set where I want it to at least begin tuning. My bottom cam at full draw has a good bit of \ lean to it.

I haven't had a chance to shoot it through paper, but with the lean in the bottom cam, I'm expecting to have a left tear...which would tell me I could shim my bottom cam to the left and would in turn straighten the cam up at full draw...sound correct?

I'm not trying to create an issue where there isn't one, just trying to learn.

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When I help a buddy tune a hoyt, I set the top cam to neutral with no cam lean and I do look at the bottom cam to see what it is looking like but with a hoyt I just start shooting the bare shaft through paper at 6 to 8 feet and yoke tune the top cam until I get bullet holes. Once I am there and am getting bullet holes I then make a judgement on how much lean I had to give to the top cam to get there and if it is acceptable. If not I shim the bottom cam in the direction of the tears that I just corrected and here is the important part. Put the top cam back to neutral and start over. Do not leave the top cam right there where you just got to with the bottom cam shimmed in the original position. You have got to put the top cam back to neutral and with the bottom cam now shimmed over you can see the truth. If you don't you will get lost in a hurry and not see the truth of what shimming has to offer.

The hard thing for some hybrid shooters is the fact that you can achieve really good arrow flight with crappy cam lean, these people don't realize that you can get good arrow flight in many different combinations and it is your choice to pick which one you want to shoot with as a end result. To me settling for a top or bottom cam that is leaning excessively is not a option.

 

One of the biggest issues with target bows is the use of a blade rest, they are really hard to tune and get rid of high tears because the angle and stiffness of the blade ramps up their amount of spring board action on the shaft as it moves along. The last two hoyts I tuned had limb drivers and it made the vertical tear a pleasure to deal with where dealing with a blade rest was a bear. Many people with blade rests just live with the high left tear etc because they can't get rid of it, hence you see a bunch of people claiming that their best groups are with some form of high tear.

 

Thanks and I completely agree. The bottom cam as I see it now seems excessive just by looking at it at full draw, but I will be shooting it through paper as it is to see what that tells me.

The top cam is set completely neutral at full draw right now.

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To answer your question, assuming you are talking about a right handed bow, it would have a left tear.

 

And fwiw, when I tune most of my Hoyts out of the box, I always start with the largest spacer on the right side of the bottom cam, just so I don't end up with a lot of lean in the top. Most of them come that way, but not all.

 

Thank you Kris. That's what I thought and needed confirmation on. Love your vids by the way! [emoji109]

To answer your question, assuming you are talking about a right handed bow, it would have a left tear.

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Good deal, and thanks. I don't post as much about tuning as I used to. I enjoy doing the videos a lot more.

 

I bought a shim kit from Double Lung here on AT. Great investment!

 

I bought the shim kit earlier this year and agree...its awesome! I noticed this Hoyt has a thinner shim on the right side (cable side) of the cam and a thicker shim on the left (string side) so that may be part of the issue there.

 

I'd go ahead and swap them. It will keep the top cam from having more lean, and it would also make the bottom straighter at full draw. I will add that on almost all of my personal Hoyts, I like the thicker shim on the string side, just like what you're seeing. But my cams don't have the positve lean at full draw like you've described either. You got lots of choices.

 

if you end up reshimming the bottom cam, do you keep the basic hoyt center shot number or do you find it closer to and 1"?

 

I always keep mine between 3/4-13/16".

 

The more I look at it...the cam lean is pretty serious

 

Great info

 

where is the draw stop peg hitting the buss cable? is it on the very outside of the peg? I can't see it.

 

I would swap that around and put the large spacer on the cable side. It will hit more in the middle of the peg, that's awful close to the edge. Then just deal with the l/r at the rest and the yokes.

 

Little followup...I swapped the spacers around and the same lean was still in the bottom cam at full draw. I then used my shim kit and put the smallest spacer I have on the left side (.020) and filled in the other side with what was needed which ended up being (.062). Checked it at full draw on the draw board and still had the same amount of lean.

I look the bow over really well and find this mark on the bottom left (string side) limb. I just bought this bow off of here and it had been recently finished in gloss black...so I can't really tell if it's just the finish or if there may be a crack or something in the limb. The bow maxed out is supposed to be hitting 65lbs but is only hitting 63lbs....however it has custom string and cables on them that may be causing that....not exactly sure. It seems to be hitting draw length just fine, and axle to axle length is spot on even though I know that doesn't need to be exact. Any thoughts?

 

Need a better pic

 

This is the best pic of the limb I can get. The more I look at it, I dont think its a limb issue.

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The last pic you posted of the draw stop peg doesn't look too, too bad. I'd be OK with it like that. Give the bow a twist and half on the buss cable, and it'll hit peak weight. Then you know how to fix the sync with the cc I'm sure. If the DW doesn't bother you, leave it alone. One of my CS34 only hits 68# peak weight with 70# limbs, but it shoots so well where its at, I don't dare bother to get the other 2# its missing.

 

The draw weight really doesnt bother me. i've just never seen a hybrid system with this much bottom cam lean.

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