[tpcollins]

A couple of my scopes have probably been mounted over 50 years now.

And I’ll bet the crosshairs on some of those scope are made with wires.

Probably 35 years ago I was muzzleloader in December and went to look thru my scope and there was a glob of grease on the horizontal wire.

 

[ehan69]

Probably 35 years ago I was muzzleloader in December and went to look thru my scope and there was a glob of grease on the horizontal wire.

[/QUOTE]
... Laughing incredibly hard.

 

[kevinslack]

There's a different's in inch lbs and foot lbs. When tightening bases and rings use a torque wrench for inch lbs.

 

[ehan69]

There's a different's in inch lbs and foot lbs. When tightening bases and rings use a torque wrench for inch lbs.

Which does that yellow Wheeler measure?

 

[kevinslack]

If this is the one you are talking about it's inch lbs

 

[ehan69]

If this is the one you are talking about it's inch lbs

Alright, good to know.
Thanks for clarifying.

 

[yelpy]

Most optics company's if not all have a recommended torque spec for the rings so you dont damage the scope.

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[ehan69]

Most optics company's if not all have a recommended torque spec for the rings so you dont damage the scope.
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It’s not so you don’t damage their rings / mounts?
Because, as far as I can determine, I’ve never damaged a scope with all my torquing.

 

[rt2bowhunter]

I have never damaged a scope that i ever knew of. Other than leaving ring marks on the scope. IMO those torque specs are either to protect the scope or rings. Not to make sure my scope dont change POI.

I will keep getting my rings tight as i can.

 

[Skeeter 58]

Some scopes and/or scope mounts comes with padding-like material where the mounts contact the scopes. Yet some have none at all. For the ones that do have padding, not all of them are the same thickness either. Therefore no doubt that listed torque values might not be so conducive for every application.

Not against using recommended torque values as this is constantly used procedure in aviation, however, everything must be as described per application.

 

[ehan69]

Even when torqued to spec or over does anyone else have issues with screws still loosening in relatively short amounts of time?
For instance, in the case of my Scorpyd and Burris rings, eight months?

 

[DJH01L]

marked for later

 

[Skeeter 58]

Even when torqued to spec or over does anyone else have issues with screws still loosening in relatively short amounts of time?
For instance, in the case of my Scorpyd and Burris rings, eight months?

With the twang in some crossbows, lots of folks use loctite on the scope mounting screws. I have not personally experienced this, but my bows have never had a lot of vibration on the shot either.

It certainly wouldn't hurt a thing to use blue loctite. I've even used the red loctite on some of my equipment and I was still able to remove the screws if need be.

 

[ehan69]

With the twang in some crossbows, lots of folks use loctite on the scope mounting screws. I have not personally experienced this, but my bows have never had a lot of vibration on the shot either.
It certainly wouldn't hurt a thing to use blue loctite. I've even used the red loctite on some of my equipment and I was still able to remove the screws if need be.[/QUOTE]

Due to the good information in this thread, I am beginning to arrive at the locktite solution myself.
Perhaps once I am satisfied with my scope placement in the rings I will attempt?
On the other hand, I cannot recall the screws in my TPS TSR rings (Brownell’s) loosening.
Perhaps simply ponying up for high end, CNC machined to 0.001” tolerance rings is the answer?
Glancing at their page, TPS’s XRT Series X-Rings look like TPS just stepped up their game: “XRT Series X-Rings, bringing a whole new level of beauty and precision into an extremely rugged Picatinny platform scope mount.

The X-Rings have been built from the bottom up to provide the extreme precision and accuracy that TPS rings have been known for over the last two decades.* The ring bases begin from a solid billet of 7075-T6 aluminum and then machined with our unique Double-Lug Picatinny recoil shoulders from the solid billet.* We have designed and engineered the Double-Lug recoil system to allow the parallelism and perpendicularity of the lugs to the ring bore to be within .0002, thereby providing repeatability that no other mount in the world with similar integrated lugs has done before.

The X-Rings are specifically designed for the Mil-STD 1913 rail system.* Because of the Double-Lug system, they do require two (2) accompanied cross-slots in a 1913 cross-slot configuration.

The ring caps are secured with Four (4) 8-32 x 1/2″ Camcar-Textron Torx drive screws and with the same unique design that allows you to tighten the left side of the cap, then the right side without the scope rotating.* The edges and corners are fully radiused, preventing snagging, and providing a beautiful appearance to your rifle.
The rings are securely attached to your rail with an oversized clamp system using Two (2) 8-32 x 1/2″ Camcar-Textron Torx screws, preventing any chance your rings will loosen or move once installed.

With unparalleled precision and holding force, and sleek design, these will meet the extreme expectations of any class shooter.” https://www.brownells.com/optics-mo...tinny-scope-rings-prod130337.aspx?avs|Manufacturer_1=TPS+PRODUCTSzxczxc+LLCxzzx

 

[yelpy]

It’s not so you don’t damage their rings / mounts?
Because, as far as I can determine, I’ve never damaged a scope with all my torquing.

It's also so you dont break the heads off the screws or strip the threads. The screws will usually handle a bit more torque than recommended. I have a pachmayr replacement kit just in case but the screws in the kit seem pretty soft making it very easy to break the heads off or strip the head.

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[ehan69]

It's also so you dont break the heads off the screws or strip the threads. The screws will usually handle a bit more torque than recommended. I have a pachmayr replacement kit just in case but the screws in the kit seem pretty soft making it very easy to break the heads off or strip the head. [/QUOTE]

Thanks for the heads up re the pachmayr replacement kit.
First I’ve heard of it.

 

[yelpy]

Brownell sells them and I think amazon and midway usa.

Your torque will also depend on the screw size.

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[bs4u00]

I've never checked or used a torque wrench for scope mountings. Good idea though. I will have to pick a wrench up that measures inch lbs.

 

[ehan69]

I've never checked or used a torque wrench for scope mountings. Good idea though. I will have to pick a wrench up that measures inch lbs.

Using a torque wrench for scope and stock screws has the additional advantage that if you need to disassemble for some reason you can return to the same zero more effectively following reassembly.