Archery Talk Forum banner

Crossbow prods

12K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  Moon  
#1 ·
Whats the pros and cons of using fiberglass backing and facing, as opposed to using spring steel when building a medieval style crossbow? also, does anyone have a poundage chart for building your own prods out of the afore mentioned fiberglass and hardwood. Thankyou John
 
#3 ·
As Moon says, along with an in depth discussion with David, there are a few good web sites to visit.
Just do a search from Google...you'll find some good reading.
Though nothing as I recall about using fiberglass prods.

What do you mean by "backing and facing"? Is this to "cover" a steel prod? Or is this just a fiberglass prod...nothing in the middle but fiberglass and resin?

Mike
 
#4 ·
Steel is more "period" however, laminated prods were used in some bows. You can build a wood/glass laminant prod, but no clue on what you would need for thickness and such, but you can call some of the companies that make laminations for bows and they will be able to chart out what you would need to get X poundage from that short a prod...no reason it cannot be done and if you wrap it with leather no one will know till they pick it up. It is a messy job though...
Wyvern
 
#5 ·
I like the idea of a light weight as long

as it looks like the period's steel limbs. Right now I would like one with any kind of limbs I can get:wink: I want to show up at a 3D shoot with that baby but I may be to old to drive by the time I get one:p Check this beauty out. No one takes credit for making it :-(
 
#7 ·
Even I would not do that :)

Just looking down the arrow at a deer at 15 steps would be awesome! I just hope I can get my hands on a medieval soon.
 
#8 ·
crossbow prodds

If you have two prodds of the same draw weight, say 100lbs, the compsite prodd would be the faster, as the steel prodd has a heavy mass limb to move.
With a compsite prodd using Bo-tuff and wood and glue you can only take the draw weight so far, before the wood breaks, the most that I have build is 300lbs at 14.5" draw, and that was pushing it, with steel prodds draw weights can be anything up to 3000 lbs, I have a 450 lb , a 800lb and a 2000Lb prodd,
but most of my prodds are 95 lb compsite for target shooting.
If you go to my web site there is a chart for compsite prodd on which size lams to use, and on how to make a prodd press.
Robin
 
#9 ·
If you have two prodds of the same draw weight, say 100lbs, the compsite prodd would be the faster, as the steel prodd has a heavy mass limb to move.
With a compsite prodd using Bo-tuff and wood and glue you can only take the draw weight so far, before the wood breaks, the most that I have build is 300lbs at 14.5" draw, and that was pushing it, with steel prodds draw weights can be anything up to 3000 lbs, I have a 450 lb , a 800lb and a 2000Lb prodd,
but most of my prodds are 95 lb compsite for target shooting.
If you go to my web site there is a chart for compsite prodd on which size lams to use, and on how to make a prodd press.
Robin
GOOD GRIEF. That is impressive as all get out. What in the world do you use for a bolt in the 450, 800, and 2000 pound bows? Various sizes of telephone poles???

What kind of things have you shot those bolts through?

How do you cock them ... you must have an impressive pulley system for that 2000 pounder -- or maybe you just chain the stirrup to a thick tree and attach the harness to the receiver of your truck and pull the truck forward until the bow gets cocked? :wink:

And, what did you build the stocks out of? That 2000 pounder must have one heck of a stock to withstand those pressures.

And, how did you test your designs ... hopefully not by the seat of your pants ... build it and test it???
 
#10 ·
seat of your pants

Hi Tom
First my web site is www,thecrossbowmansden.com here there are some of my crossbows, the 450lb crossbow is braced using a Goats-foot lever, this was build for tornament shooting, when we used to shoot Mediaeval tornaments in the U.K., I build it so that I could use 3/8" diameter shafting, I would have to make my own piles as no-one at that time was making them,
the bolt was 14" long with three Grey Bard feather I used them because they would stay together in the rain, ( in the U.K. it was always raining).
The 800lb and 2000lb are still being built, both will be braced with a cranequin, the bolts I will be copying from Mediaeval bolts as I have a bolt from 1456, if it worked for them it must work for me, it has two horse leather vanes the wood is pear its 15" in length.
The wood for the stocks, the 2000lb its stock is Black Cherry, it will have steel rivets to stop spliting the grain that is were the prodd inlet is and the release mech is, the 800lb stock is Balck Walnut, I did not build the 800lb prodd it came from a guy in Flanders, when you build a brute of 800lb or more you are in a new -old world, and I have to scars to prove it, but you have to think safety all the time make a mistake and you could wear it
Robin
 
#13 ·
Hi Tom
First my web site is www,thecrossbowmansden.com here there are some of my crossbows, the 450lb crossbow is braced using a Goats-foot lever
What an interesting response!!

I did a search on "crossbow goats-foot lever" and found several references but no picture. Apparently this was a metal device (possibly even hinged, based on what I read) with a bend in it that made it shaped roughly like a goat's foot. However, I could not find a picture of it. Can you describe what they look like? And, were they held separately or were they incorporated into the stock? My bet would be held separately, based on the power involved. Incorporating it into the stock would have weakened the stock, especially back in those days when adequate reinforcement of the wood in a stock would have been difficult.
 
#11 ·
The heaviest one I have built is 200lbs...even that gets kinda intersting....:wink:

Wyvern
 
#16 ·
Thanks, David and Balistarius. Now I understand.

Interesting stuff. I bet that stuff was high-tech 700 years ago.

I had read about the wide metal hook attached to a leather strap which in turn was wrapped around the waist for handheld crossbows and about turnstiles for the giant cross bows and catapults. But I never read anything about our predecessors using levers on crossbows. My ignorance, I guess.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Hello every one...I'm new here and glad I found this place and post at this exact moment.Thou it's terrible that I cant post pictures or links yet..what can I say...noob :angry:
I'm not a stranger to Crossbowmansden thou. Good stuff Robin!!!

I'm building a crossbow on another forum at this moment(If you're interested I'll post a link once I can, but I warn you it's dark and messy...first time building a crossbow or lets just say any kind of bow). So far I've cast the riser in aluminum and the next stop are the limbs. I'm a little stuck...don't really want them to snap or overpower and crush the core.

Specs.
I'm using actionboo(1.5in wide, 1/8in thick...parallel laminations, but can taper them) and fiberglass laminations(1.5 inch wide Bo-Tuff)...I also have unidirectional carbon-fiber tape that I'm itching to cheat with, but want to avoid.
I made "glue up" form using a modified profile from one web site I found. It's a recurve 14 inches in length(one limb). The seating area to which the limbs attach is 3 inches, total riser length is 7 or 7.5 inches, in the end it add up to 29-29.5 inch prod.

I was thinking of giving it 6 inch braith height plus additional 9 inches of draw to equal out to 14.5/15 inches of draw length. Is it possible with my design...or I should have made the limbs longer...say 16 inches or more.

I'm counting on your advice as the build is updated in real time.

Thanks in advance,
Ivan
 
#21 ·
I just want to buy a darn Medieval bow for hunting

David!!!!!! :) I've been trying to get one for almost 2 years with no luck. I also want to start a "traditional" 3D crossbow class. HELP!!!!!!!!!:eek: There MUST be a market for these cool crossbows. If I can find a supplier, I'll create the market. I'm not talking about mass production. A semi-custom, made to order bow would be ideal. I also firmly believe a non-metal limb is the way to go with such a bow. 99% of so called traditional long bows and recurves use modern limb materials. You can already get limbs similar to what I'm talking about on cheap recurve crossbows from Sportsman Guide so I don't think it would be so difficult to get limbs made for Medievals.
 
#22 ·
#23 ·
Alchem is a great source for the parts and plans for these bows. I am actually re-doing my website in the next few weeks to add in all the new modern bows and I am removing the medievals as I just do not have the time to put into production of them and I will not sacrifice quality for mass production so to be fair to my customers I will not be offering these again till I can better organize that end of the business. Current orders...though behind...will be filled though.

Wyvern

P.S. At least I have some of my product in the hands of customers....unlike a certain "wonder bow" that comes to mind....:confused:
 
#24 ·
So I can still count on getting one :)

Have you considered having someone build them for you? Someone close by that has time and would enjoy building these jewels?
 
#26 ·
No, you are wrong

I have no desire to build my own. God knows I have enough other stuff to do and I want everyone to know my "picking" at David was all in fun (see smiley faces :). I know he's extremely busy.