Mine kept spinning around the string until I tied nocking points above and below my nock. Don't know for sure if this was the fix but made sense to me that the tied nock points gave the bcy#24 something to cinch down on when force was applied.

Anyways worth a try for cheap.

 

Wax your D-Loop material before installing..

 

When I tighten up a dloop, I just use needle nose pliers. Works well for me.. Always use wax.

 

I use Outer Limit D loop plier's, they don't move a lick once tightened down.

 

Total agree with this. Outer Limits dloop tool wont slip.
DB

 

What material are you using? Are you using nock pliers to tighten the loop once it is installed? If it seems like it is spinning after you have installed it properly it's more the material your string is made from. It's stretching and twisting.
Any loop I've ever made and installed has stayed put and the only way it can move is to be cut off.
There is no need to add any knots or anything to keep them in place.

 

D loop pliers

 

I use needle nose pliers and the d-loop still moves a bit. I think it is because my draw length is about a 1/2" too long. like nuts and bolts has described... my forearm is not perfectly in line with the string causing a bit of torque I guess. not saying that is your issue, but maybe your release could use shortening, sometimes dl is right but loop length or release length if applicable could use a touch up. I'm also told that black d-loop is among the worst for stretching.

 

What material is the best to use for the D-Loop.

 

I don't even know for sure what material my roll of string loop is made of. The label on the spool gives no info. I've tied many other loops using this spool and haven't had problems getting them to cinch tight and stay put and I'm tying them and cinching them using my same method.

 

I bought a set of D-loop pliers from Dick's. I think they are made by Bohning. Whatever they are, I have yet have a loop slip or move after I cinched it down.

 

I don't use wax on serving or loop
I don't use tie in's
I don't use loop specific pliers....just needle nose pliers.

most likely, the issue is the melted end- probably not getting a good melt and it's not locking.

 

If the center serving on your new strings is made from Halo serving material, that might be the problem. Halo is very slick and sometime it makes it tough to get a d-loop to cinch down and stay in place. I've had reasonable luck with BCY #24 loop material.

 

Just picked these up. They put a good stretch on the loop.

 

That's a great idea cutting a grove on one side of the pliers. I will be doing that straight away.

 

You sure the tail of the d-loop didnt cross over the bowstring?I did that once in a hurry and those knots never stop moving.

 

I'm having the same problem on my new bow... I have to rely on the d-loop to position my peep just right, but if my d-loop moves, my peep will not stay aligned at drawn. Even after I've shot the bow in and broke the strings in. I can't get the d-loop cinched in tight enough to not move to keep it steady. I have to reposition my d-loop after every shot. I tried using a dot of Loctite Ultra Control Gel before, but once it's dry, it works about a dozen shots then breaks free.

I think I may just pick up some some d-loop specific pliers and be done with it... I was using some needle nose pliers that didn't really help. I did cut a small groove in them with a Dremel and it actually allowed me to get it tighter, but it's still not tight enough.

I think it's the nature of single cam bows (the peep being able to move so freely and d-loop position causes it to be off) because the string is so long and actually loops over the idler wheel and operates as a "cable". I tried putting A LOT of twists in the bowstring so it's in a more constant position, and it helped with the peep SOME, but it still seems to move when my d-loop moves. I also have a new string set on order... this issue is with factory strings, and we all know how bad PSE's factory threads suck.

 

First get some quality material like bcy and don't be skimpy and use enough so you have a good tag end to pull on. Frey up one end real good exposing the inner fibers as well. Take your lighter and melt a nice neat end, I like it flat like a square don't let it catch fire though and let it dry. Now tie your top knot and while snugging it up pinch the wraps going around the string so you get a nice neatly wrapped knot. Hold the bow string and grab that tag end with your needle nose and pull it for all your worth making sure the 2 wraps around the bow string don't start separating and the melted end is seated real tight. If you have quality loop and center serving material that sucker isn't going to move. Now when your form your loop to tie your lower knot, make it half as small as you want it finished. Get it nice and snug with neat wraps by hand and again grab the tag with your needle nose and pull that sucker tight, usually nee to stick the tip of my pinky in there so it doesn't close the loop to tight. Cut the tag with a razor bade about 1/4" away from the knot and again fray up the end. If you use a blade from a box cutter they have those 2 little half moon cut-outs on top, they are perfect for laying the blade flat against the loop and stick that small tag in the cut-out and melt your end, The blade protects the loop and string from the flame. Now I take my needles with a groove and tighten the loop itself, seating that melted end real well and again don't let the 2 wraps separate when tightening. it should grow and get crazy tight, this material has some stretch that's why you form your loop small initially. That loop will never move.

 

Most likely your problem is not with the loop, but with the string.

A well tied loop does not give much problem. A new (or poorly made) string can be a heartache.

Best of luck to you.

 

After you get your loop installed and tighten down I put super glue on the d loop and on the knots of the d loop wipe away any extra then put wax all over it and carefully melt the wax with a lighter into the d loop. You will know have a solid and stiff d loop that won't move

 

If you can't get your loop tight enough that usually means you made the loop too big.

 

Surprised no one asked.... did you tie the knots in reverse or are the clove hitches on the same side. Same side will allow it to move more than opposite knots

 

I had never had a dloop move on me until I started working with my wife's bow. She pointed out that it was rotating while she was shooting.

Two things I learned: 1) The unidentified dloop material that I had in my toolbox didn't cinch up as well as BCY 24 that I have (but she liked the color). 2) I hadn't tightened it enough and the low draw weight didn't cause it to tighten during use. I swapped it out for good material, pulled it tight with my dloop pliers and she hasn't had a proble since.

 

My loops stay put since I started using those pliers. I've always used opposing knots. I think the material used on the center servings of the new strings I got was harder for the loop knots to grab. Put the pliers lock those knots in very well now. No movement.

 

I disagree with what some say about not using knots with your D loop, if you ever need to change D loop or one breaks the knots being on the string will make it a quick D loop change for you, glad yougot your problem solved