might try a tap to clean out plus u might try putting an electric sodering iron on you mod screw an heat it up to take out

 

Any opinions on using loctite or even the purple grade, which I have never used before.

 

Purple would be ideal for small screws, but even then, use the tiniest amount possible.


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I put purple loctite on all the fastners on my Bear Legit. That bow used to have a case of the bad vibes when shot. Use it commonly on my favorite type of SK Tools ratchets. The screw can't be tightened down because it sets tension on the ratchet internals. The purple works great to keep a small fastener from rattling out, but still comes out when needed.

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When a manufacturer recommends wax, I'll just stick with wax. If, for some reason i was determined to use loctite on a mod screw, I'd use the smallest dab of purple.

 

Someone recommended that to me with lots of experience in the archery industry. It wasn’t the manufacturer. Even though wax does firm up the screw when running it in I’m not convinced it
Couldn’t still vibrate out.

 

When using Loctite less is best. Just a very small dot will do. But I use string wax and loctite as a last resort.

 

Definitely heat it up first before you try to remove the screws.

I don't use loctite on most bow fasteners. I've found beeswax works great to keep things tight.

 

WAX ONLY, will save you from problems latter! If strip out head of Allen screw, then just drill out the head & will be able to remove the rest of screw with fingers usually.

 

I switched to Vibra-Tite. It stays soft like a rubber cement but holds those smaller screws very well.

 

lol...was typing up similar while you posted.

 

I put like a toothpick stripe of blue loctite on my bowtech cam hardware. I haven't tried to remove, now a bit worried! What's worse, is I spent time on it (cleaned all threads, both sides, with acetone...well) and so I'm sure that loctite actually did its job.

I'm considering this stuff next. It is much easier to work with and you can screw and unscrew the hardware without having to re-apply anything vs. loctite if you move it at all then it is no longer locked.

I have a high dollar scope mount and they sent this stuff with it to lock the hardware.

Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate

www.vibra-tite.com

Of course, you clean everything, but you apply it on bare threads first and allow to dry, and then use. Much easier.....reminds me of space aged rubber cement.

 

IME the best way to deal with loctite on small fastners, or any that is at risk of head stripping, is to use the tip of a soldering iron to heat things up. They should come right out.

I prefer non-hardining compounds for small fasteners that are subject to vibration. Barge cement has been around since the dawn of time and is one of the most useful adhesives in existence imo. It lasts forever in the container and works on a ridiculous variety of materials and surfaces.

 

I ordered a small tube of 222 purple Loctite from my local auto parts store. From everything I’ve read online this Loctite is designed for small fasteners, such as eyeglass screws and other things up to 1/4”and they say the same tools you used to assemble those small pieces can also be used to remove them so from what it sounds like it should be the perfect thread locker for this application

for what it’s worth, I’ve tried the soldering iron trick to heat up the screw on my other bow, both from the head and the thread end with no luck. I also took a piece of music wire and held it with vice grips and heated it red hot and then put it on the screw and let it sit there as it cooled down and that didn’t work either. It’s been too many years ago to remember but I wouldn’t be surprised if I put too much Loctite on these threads lol I try to use a small dot but sometimes that really flows and covers every single thread accidentally.

 

I use Elmers Paste... My daughter had a bunch of those sticks at the end of kindergarten... I took one from her box that summer and it's only half gone.

It's just sticky enough to keep things from coming loose but the hardware is easily removed.

 

The problem is the Allen screw

Start with a Allen bit, the size of the socket in the screw. Heat the bit with a propane torch, and put the bit in a driver. Apply pressure until the screw turns, and out comes the screw.

Keeps heat away from everything but the screw. Nothing gets hotter than the Loc-Tite melting point. The bit doesn't need to glow red to be far hotter than Loc-Tite will melt.

For whatever reason, some cam screws want to loosen from time to time, and some never do. On rainy days, I pull the bows off the hangers and gently apply some torque to the screws. Cams, sights, rests. Usually I have a screw or two that takes a half turn or less, on one of the 10 or so bows I keep as pets.

 

Heat will soften the locktight. The trick is getting it hot enough but not too hot. Heating an Allen key or driver with a torch and then putting in the screw sounds like a good approach. A wire will cool faster than the screw will heat up, you need something with some mass to it like the driver or Allen key.

 

Yeah I thought the same thing. Lot more metal to get hot on the screw than the tiny Allen key

 

Heat the tip of the hex key with a propane torch, then insert it into the screw. Wait about 30 seconds or so for the heat to transfer, and it should back out. The hex keys in my bow case used to be a set I had at work. Many of them have black on the ends from being heated up to push into plastic filled allen heads screws.

 

The problem have had is getting screws out, NOT having them come loose! Must not have tightened them in the first place.

 

I have found that Loctite and aluminum will weld tight as to where the only way I have ever have gotten a screw out was to drill and retap the one that was stuck. Not a easy task.

 

I have used loctite on plenty of bolts threading into aluminum for years. The issue, at least with my bow, is the pan head screw and the dinky Allen key. The head also gives a little friction against the cam. Honestly it was too many years ago but I am pretty sure I put more than a toothpick dab on the screw lol. I didn’t bath it but still sure I put a little more than it needed. Plus I bet the excess squeezed out and upward under the head of the screw so double trouble there. On that bow all is good cause my draw is dialed in. The only reason I was trying to get them loose was because I wanted to experiment with a little longer draw and shortening up my draw stop for less letoff. I will just have to settle for 80% 😎