For my bow, 99% of the time, I don't have to move the rest. Instead, I yoke tune for broadheads. If I do have to adjust the rest, it's usually a click or two. However, I adjust my rest in the same manner as Dan Pickar describes. BH hitting left of field points, move rest right. BH hitting right of field points, move rest left.
Remember, BH steer from the front of the arrow. If it hits right, it was pointed right of center when it left your bow. Works for me.

 

I respectfully disagree

https://www.archerytalk.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.archerytalk.com/attachments/6ecc145c-9e46-4119-b78a-8e9c87130ea9-jpeg.7458547/

 

Yeah MFJJ, off of Elkshape, and Dudley all have the same wrong information. Absolutely baffling to me as well.

 

If anyone chases their tails, they aren’t very bright. If you move something right and the problem gets worse, move it left….

D

 

I had to watch to see why that could work for him. His draw length is too long. Look how far back on his face his string comes at full draw, even with his relatively short D-loop. So, because his elbow comes too far clockwise behind his head, it aligns his body slightly toward the right of the bullseye from the get go. Moving the rest left compensates for that flaw in his "perfect form".

 

Great observation! I hadn’t noticed that. Thank you.

 

I shot my broadheads just yesterday and noticed they were impacting right of my field points. Well based on most feedback and what I have read I should move the rest right. Didn't work! I moved the rest left with using two clicks from my micro adjust and both field points and broadhead impacted the same. Matter of fact I also achieved a perfect bullet hole through paper. Prior to this tuning I had a very slight left tear on paper.

Ron

 

A few years back I got lucky with a new bow that was tuned right out of the box and grouped broadheads and field points beautifully. I tried an experiment and moved the rest the tiniest amount to the left. This resulted in broadheads clearly hitting left of field points. Moving the rest back to the right corrected the problem. I then moved the rest to the right and broadheads hit right of field points. So, I agree completely with Dan. Ultimately, Ace1 nailed it above; if one direction doesn't work, try the other.

 

All your paper tuning charts will show the same thing. Right tear (tail right, nock right) move rest left. Not sure how your results show just the opposite. I mean this is basic paper and bare shaft tuning. Please provide a single chart indicating the opposite for paper and bare shaft if you can find one.

 

Those charts defy logic. For a nock low tear, it says to move rest down, which makes perfect sense. But for a tail right/left tear you do the opposite? I can move my rest left right now and get a tail right tear. I don't care what those charts say. That's not what my real world findings produce. Think about it. If the tail of the arrow is right, where is the rest at in relation to the tail/string? It has to be left. Moving the rest further to the left would only make it worse.

 

No wonder why so many can’t tune a bow. This place couldn’t write a tuning manual if they tried…lol.

 

Happy to see this post. I have wondered the same thing for years. I actually have my tuning process spelled out on an index card and have the following for broadhead tuning:

1) Shoot broadhead at target
2) Shoot field point at same target
3) Only count well executed shots - must feel good about process before making adjustments
3) Make very micro adjustment to rest to correct impacts points

Because of the Easton guide, all of the stuff I have read in the past, and I share the information with other folks at the range; I left the rest adjustment step vague (they can figire out what works for them and their setup). However, I have personally "almost always" had to move the rest in the direction I wanted the broadhead impact to follow. Like others above, I chalked this up to the broadhead steering the arrow away from the desired impact point at launch. Example: missing left micro adjust right.

Lastly, I want to point out that broadhead tuning is the last process that I do on my bows - as I use them to hunt. Prior to this point I make sure that the bow (Mathews) is spot-on for the following specifications (DW, DL, ATA, brace, cam sync, and draw stop timing) and paper-punching bullet holes at ~5 yards (center shot and top hats). I start the broadhead tuning process at 20 yds. and end at 60 yds. Typically any adjustments to the rest during this process are 1-3 clicks on the QAD micro adjust.

To maybe learn something, I would be interested in hearing the reasoning associated with chasing the broadhead (Easton method) and why (besides it says so...lol). Is this process based on past riser designs and cam alignment or something similar?

 

Broadhead tune in more detail... - Alberta Outdoorsmen Forum

Broadhead tune in more detail... Archery Discussion

www.outdoorsmenforum.ca

Here is a great explanation on broadhead tuning utilizing your rest as explained by eastmans journal. It worked for me.

 

This is from a 2015 article on Bowhunting.com (Broadhead Tuning For Field Point Accuracy). As I mentioned in my earlier process discussion, this is POST paper tuning.

"Bob Mizek, Production Manager for New Archery Products, taught me a simple technique that really works. Its seems like magic, but it’s not. It is simply amazing how much difference tiny changes in rest position have on broadhead group location. Basically, if your broadheads group separately from your field points, move your rest very slightly in the direction you want your hunting arrows to go.

If the broadheads are high or low, left or right of the practice arrows, move the rest very slightly downward or upward, to right or to the left, respectively. I repeat: very slightly. These tweaks are all that’s required to point your broadheads along the right initial path to hit the same place as your field points."

 

I always tuned broadheads by moving the rest in the direction I wanted the broadhead to go, mostly tuning with finger shooting bac in the day.

I tune bare shafts now and typically hunt with a mechanical head.

 

 

And there it is. Thanks for sharing.

 

Fixed broadheads are the same concept as a bareshaft. The lack of rear steering on a bareshaft causes it to plane in the direction it comes off the bow. A fixed blade adds front steering to a fletched arrow, so it will cause it to plane off in the direction if comes off the bow. You tune a paper tear and bareshaft the same as a fixed broadhead.

 

Completely agree. Paper tuning, bareshaft tuning and broadhead tuning are all essentially the same exact thing. Look at a paper tune chart and picture what having a broadhead on the front of it and which way it would plane. Adjust it the same way you would adjust a paper tune.

 

I know what they say you should do if broadheads are hitting left or right of field points and if you have a tare in paper. I will say sometimes it works other times it does not work at least for me so I just move it a tiny bit one way then see how it worked and adjust from there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Here is what I just observed. First shot is approximately 1/4" tail right.

Then I moved rest LEFT 6 clicks and had approximately 3/8" tail right....

All shots at 6ft

 

Look at it again. It improved! Move it some more

 

Moved rest back to the right 6 clicks for top shot

 

Your first picture has a bigger tear than the second one you posted.

 

Not according to my measuring tape.

 

Move it 12 clicks left just for giggles and post results. Thank you

 

Ive always been able to follow the charts...
BS/BH hit left of FP --> move rest left or cams right.. and vice versa..

 

Of course shooter form always influences things as well, such as draw length being too long/short, grip torque, etc...

 

👆👆👆

 

You can just move it back to what you had very easily. Testing purposes only I guess. Do and post results

 

Here's my bow tuned prior to adjusting rest. Bareshaft and fletched at 20yds

 

What you have is defying everyone and everything which leads me to think you have some other issue (grip, spine, form) But if it works for you shoot away. I give up.

 

Lol, maybe I'm just living in the upside-down world and don't even know it... 😅

 

You are all arguing about this in one dimension.
It'd be awesome if there was only one dimension to tuning, which meant just getting string aligned with rest was all that influenced arrow flight. Tail left/point right would simply mean that the arrow was sitting like this /, and so moving the rest LEFT or the cams RIGHT would solve the problem. Defying most tuning charts.
But this is assuming that the string always travels in a perfectly straight line from full draw to rest, and a shooter never influences it.

There are other factors. Limb deflection. Cam lean. Grip torque from shooter. Face/string contact. Cam timing. Improper draw length and/or form.

The other factors are why the tuning charts don't always work for some but do work for others.
I'm not savvy enough to say why exactly, but charts like the GT one posted above work for me every single time. If I have bare shaft or fixed hitting right of field points, I can move the rest right or the cams left and it improves. Every single time...so far. What is working for @JTrean above would not make mine better, it would get worse.

 

You are all arguing about this in one dimension.
It'd be awesome if there was only one dimension to tuning, which meant just getting string aligned with rest was all that influenced arrow flight. Tail left/point right would simply mean that the arrow was sitting like this /, and so moving the rest LEFT or the cams RIGHT would solve the problem. Defying most tuning charts.
But this is assuming that the string always travels in a perfectly straight line from full draw to rest, and a shooter never influences it.

There are other factors. Limb deflection. Cam lean. Grip torque from shooter. Face/string contact. Cam timing. Improper draw length and/or form.

The other factors are why the tuning charts don't always work for some but do work for others.
I'm not savvy enough to say why exactly, but charts like the GT one posted above work for me every single time. If I have bare shaft or fixed hitting right of field points, I can move the rest right or the cams left and it improves. Every single time...so far. What is working for @JTrean above would not make mine better, it would get worse.

I am by no means an expert. This is the first bow I've worked on and I have been doing it this way since 2018 and It has always worked. Like I said, I never move my rest because I have yokes. I just center it and yoke tune from there to get it perfect. My cams do have a slight lean due to design. Top cam-\ bottom cam-/. Perhaps that has something to do with my results? Now I'm worried if I get a new bow, everything will be reversed! Lol