Check your nocking point. Might be a little low.
One other solution is to get a bow hand glove.

 

Trevor gave you a great solution that should help that fletching dodge your hand. Don't be afraid to move your nocking point increasingly higher, passing a potential sweet spot, and then moving back to it in order to solve this problem. Small strips of masking tape can be wrapped around the string and used as temporary nock locators to make this process simple. After living with and confirming the sweet spot for a few days, yank the tape and replace it with a permanent locator.

You can eliminate the sharp leading edge of all your feathers by carefully skiving the quill with a utility knife or the like, and perhaps a fold of sandpaper to refine that, until the leading edge is almost dead flush to the shaft and feels nearly perfectly smooth at the transition as you run your finger from the shaft into the quill. It only takes a very tiny and clever cut to even things out. Then place a drop of glue (I use Duco on my woodies) on that leading edge to form a roundish bead that seals the joint and eliminates any chance of the quill nicking your hand. (While you're at it, place a bead of glue on the rear end of the feather's quill, as well.)

I always get bit by the feather if my nock point is too low.

Good luck.

 

Yep, try raising your nock point and take care of the leading edge of the fletching the way Thin suggested.

 

I am relatively new to archery, and this has been happening to me ever since I started. Initially, I tried every thing anyone suggested. I moved the nock point up and down. No help. I tried arrows of different spine. No help, but I probably didn't try enough.

So, I did go to a glove on my bow hand. It takes the abuse. I cut the fingers off of a mechanics glove so I could feel the bow and I actually like it. But the best results came from rotating the arrow nock so that the cock feather is at about 11 oclock. The real goal is to get the lower hen feather to clear my hand. I also built the shelf up slightly, like an eights of an inch or so, which puts the arrow higher than my hand. I do have one bow with a grip that works perfectly for me. But I like the other bow better.

Anyway, I think the feathers would no longer hit my hand, but feather cuts were painful and I like the glove so I have not tried going without.

Good luck

 

I've been using the Ravenswood Leathers Bowglove: http://www.ravenswoodleather.com/index.php?p=product&id=398

and have been considering the Sherwood Archer's Bracer: http://www.ravenswoodleather.com/index.php?p=product&id=410

 

If you really want one, I have an all black one I'm not using. $30 TYD (bracer, not bowglove)

 

Hey JDJackson,

I had this same exact problem when I first started shooting my Omega Original - and this was coming from a bow I shot off the fist. My Original likes a nock point 1/2" high. Also good to have a nock locator under the arrow nock as well to prevent porpoising from Kegan's skinny strings. These two items in place - nock point high enough and locators above, and below, the arrow nock - and the fletchings never contacted my bow hand again.

Hope this helps.

Steve

 

Do your arrows have a little dab of fletch tite, or some other fletching adhesive, on the front edge of the cock feather quill, to prevent what can be a sharp edge from scratching or poking in your hand?

 

Check how your gripping the riser. More than likely your hand is riding too high up the handle. When the arrow does its flexing around the riser those feathers come out to the left as their passing by. Make sure your hand and fingers are not in the way.

 

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2012090&highlight=dab+glue

For tuning (always tuning...it is a process...like security):
http://veraxservice.net/arch/tune.html

 

First off, thank you to each of you who have replied. Your insights are very valued.

Since the bow is brand new, I have not set my nock points, so this may very well be the issue. I will try starting with some tape until I place my permanent nocks.

Regarding the arrows, these are new prefletched arrows, straight out of the box, so I have not tried adding any adhesive or trimming on the fletching. I will look at this, as these seem to be very sharp on the leading edge, much more so than my others.

Thanks again for all of the glove suggestions. I will look into these, but right now I am going to try playing with the nock adjustment and trimming on the arrows to see if I can take care of the issue without adding another piece of equipment.

I will also double check my grip, but I don't think that I am gripping it high, as I release the grip once I have tension on the string to make sure the grip is seated properly in my bow hand before pulling it back to my anchor.

Steve - I agree that Kegan's string is WAY skinny! At first none of my arrows would stay nocked... heck, they would not "nock" they just slid back off! My local archery shop was kind enough to swap out my serving to a thicker one that has my arrows staying put very nicely.

Thanks again to all for the great replies! I currently have the bow on my dinning room table being stained and finished, so it may take me a few days before I have a chance to get back out and shoot again. I am going to look into trimming / sanding of those fletching edges though!

Jonathan

 

Steve - I agree that Kegan's string is WAY skinny! At first none of my arrows would stay nocked... heck, they would not "nock" they just slid back off! My local archery shop was kind enough to swap out my serving to a thicker one that has my arrows staying put very nicely.

He recommended Easton Super Nocks for me. I swapped the GT nocks out for ESNs right away. Gold Tip said the thicker serving would be the way to go, but I took the bowyer's advice. 6 of this, half dozen of the other I suppose. I'm sure the nockset at the proper height is going to cure your bow hand woes.

I currently have the bow on my dinning room table being stained and finished, so it may take me a few days before I have a chance to get back out and shoot again.

I can't wait to have a new Imperial laying on my dining room table being stained and finished.

Maybe you could share a pic when you're done.

 

Steve - I spoke with Kegan yesterday and he recommended the same nocks to me, along with the Turbo Nocks. Since I had already modified the serving, I didn't see any reason to mess with it any further. My nocks stay put now and since this is my first longbow (first traditional bow as well), the thicker serving may be a bit easier on my fingers as well.

As for pics... I took a few right after I unpacked the bow. I will post up a couple, once the system stops failing to upload my pics. :smile:

 

JD,

I found that with my big hands (I am 6ft5in) I had to do a high wrist grip and use my ring and pinky finger to help create a sort of outrigger for the bow as I moved to a modified high wrist grip. It helped my situation and helped me realize that there are no exact ways you have to grip the bow. One thing I would also suggest is to see where/how the bow holds level by holding the bow parallel to the ground in the web of your hand and work on figuring grip from there if you can. That will help with knowing where your bow balances and helps after the shot with reducing bow torque.

 

Also - is you fletching helical? If so, right wing or left wing? I had that problem for a while with right wing helical fletch. Switched to left wing and problem was solved.

 

shawnsphoto - I have shot this same way with my compound bow, to make sure that i wasn't torquing the bow. I may give it a try. Thanks.

CKR - My arrows are right helical. I would never had though of that one! If the issue remains, after trying several nock locations, I may pick up a left helical and give it a try. Thanks!

PS: still can't post pics...

 

I'm right-handed and my arrows are RW helical.

I've noticed when posting on AT that I can't add photos when replying to a thread. For some reason, I have to post a reply, wait a minute or two, then the option to add photos becomes active if I go back in to edit my post. It's still inactive if I try to edit immediately, but wait too long and you can't edit the post. Anyone else notice this - or know why this is?

 

I am having troubles with the upload when I try to reply as well. I am not sure what the issue is, but I can say that it is frustrating, as I have tried about a half a dozen times this morning and have failed to upload every time.
Jonathan

 

There are several things not working lately. I can't click on any links either. It keeps wanting to add some "click through" tracking code from the forum parent site at viglink.com. Maybe it's my anti-spam or pop-up blocker, I don't know. (If it is, fine but I don't play that game. I'll just cut/paste around the tracking code) But whatever it is, things aren't exactly working like they used to.