[Qarrow]

Just to clarify my post. The washer has to be between the limb and the top of the limb bolt.
If it's not there, the limb has to rotate more to touch the top of the limb bolt which makes the contact point move in the wrong direction.
Since that type of limb bolt rotates, a missing washer and limbs that aren't in all the way during stringing could combine to make the limb slip out during the shot. The limb flexing at full draw would contribute to it also.
This is just a theory though - I haven't done any measurements.

There all theories at this point but definitely looking into all of them.
thanks again!

 

[UK_Stretch]

I don’t see too much to comment on. As mentioned already the washer should be glued into the cap of the bolt. If it gets on the wrong side it tends to gouge the limb as the underside of the tiller bolt is not flat. Also if the washer there is not the original it could affect the contact between the limb and the bolt head plate (although this result doesnt seem likely.

In the very first picture, is the limb definitely all the way home? It looks like the detente in the limb might not make it as far as the recess in the dowel. When you insert the limbs they should go in nice and easy and then make a distinct click as the detente goes home. (Also check that the dovetail fitting on the limb is not loose, they do come loose on most Hoyt limbs). I’d need to go look at mine to see, might just be my imagination.

I do see very uneven wear on the adjustable pads that the limb but sits on. One set look quite warn towards the side away from the tiller bolt. That would imply that when strung the limb is not sitting flat on the pads. That is worth fixing, but I doubt it is the problem. It does help make bows quieter if you get it right.

What does the alignment look like? And check the tip to tip as well as the string down the middle of riser, limbs and longrod. At long draw any twist gets exaggerate. (But again still wouldn’t expect the limbs to pop out).

I presume that the little set screw that stops the dowel rotating is tight? So the dowel is not rotating at full draw and dumping the limb.

Ive never had problems with the Pro Series (now obsolete) floating head bolt. However, if I had my hand on your bow the first thing I’d try is swapping out the bolt for a fixed head type. Might be worth seeing if anyone has a set that would fit. ( Original Formula RX for example). If the head is damaged and allowing the plate to float too far when the limb pushes against the edge, that would do it for sure but I’d expect to see damage on the bolt.

I‘d also reset all of the previous owners settings to “factory” settings in both adjustment systems. If they have done something funny like shimming the dowel too far to one side, that could create contact issues I. The head. (But write them down as they could be correct).

Good luck, sounds extremely frustrating!

Stretch

 

[monterey]

On the crazy chance that someone at the factory had a bad day..
For the limbs, what's the distance between the center of the bolt that has the detent spring in it and the very end of the limb? On both my formula sets, it's around 4.02 inches. If it's less than 4 inches, it would likely be a problem.

 

[archerynooblol]

Here ya go. I think this is what your talking about

This is where you'd want to look. Make sure the limb has proper engagement underneath the bolt.

 

[Bob Furman]

Maybe the Prodigy is different than the HPX, RX? But normally the edge of the dowel cutout is flush with the riser edge. In your pics I see a good sized gap like the dowel was loosened and not put back in the normal position?

See pic.

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[stick monkey]

I didn't completely read every idea. And it's been awhile since I owned a prodigy...I have a hpx now... I'm pretty sure that the detent sits in the set screw in the dowels. If it was taken out and not rotated in the correct orientation...the detent wouldn't sit correctly add in the missing loose washer and it might take it out of tolerance... especially if the dowels are severely out of alignment with the dovetail groove. I think you could loosen the set screw in the dovetail...then loosen the nuts for the shim washers and rotate the dowel til the detent is clicking in. That's my last 2 cents....it was mentioned in post 19...so not completely my idea but this is my best guess.

 

[archerynooblol]

Maybe the Prodigy is different than the HPX, RX? But normally the edge of the dowel cutout is flush with the riser edge. In your pics I see a good sized gap like the dowel was loosened and not put back in the normal position?

See pic.

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They changed the design alot since the HPX/RX.

 

[Bob Furman]

They changed the design alot since the HPX/RX.

View attachment 7338731

I was referring to the general structure if the riser and not the gimmicky lateral adjustment studs. Your picture seems to show the dowel rolled forward, but others I've seen show to flush as I commented earlier.

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[archerynooblol]

I was referring to the general structure if the riser. Your picture seems to show the dowel rolled forward, but others I've seen show to flush as I commented earlier.
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Yea, I was talking about that too. Its no longer flush on the newer risers. The picture out of the user manual was to show that, not referencing the other text on the page.

 

[MickeyBisco]

Such a wonderful community here, thank you.
We met up today and turned the tiller bolts in one full turn. We also loosened the dowels and found the angle that gave the deepest limb butt groove into the tiller bolt and locked it there. Definitely not flush with the riser. A day’s worth of shooting later and all’s good. 🤞🏽 Dropped the BH a bit as well.

thanks again, this place rocks.

 

[Bob Furman]

Yea, I was talking about that too. Its no longer flush on the newer risers. The picture out of the user manual was to show that, not referencing the other text on the page.

The picture I attached was also in the Prodigy user manual. A couple other pics showed the dowel not flush like yours.

I jumped from my old HPX to the Formula X. Thank goodness they no longer use the dowel system.




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[kevinkal]

I thought I'd add some information from my experience with the pro-series dowel system. It is very important to install the dowel in the proper rotational aligbment such that the detent freely slides into the dovetail slot and clicks into the detent hole. I believe that if the dowel is rotated too far out of proper alignment, that the detent can bind in the dovetail slot before it is fully seated and "clicked" in. This can create a dangerous situation, in that the limb will not be fully seated not just in the dovetail, but most importantly, the end fork of the limb will not fully engage into the side of the tiller/limb bolt. This could conceivably result in a bow that has been assembled and strung with the dovetail detent jammed into the misaligned dovetail slot, but not fully seated. This is a recipie for disaster, especially with the very nice high quality pro-series limb bolts with the floating head. As with all limb bolts, it is imperative that the limbs seat into the limb pockets with the limb tips engaged into the limb bolts properly past the center line of the limb bolt. Before stringing the bow, make absolutely certain that this is the case. Then, when stringing the bow, use a small amount of pressure to hold the limbs engaged in their pockets (detent and tiller bolt connections), by pushing them lightly inward. IMPORTANT: be careful not to accidentally pull the limb out of it's seated position during the critical phase the stringing the bow with a bow stringer. Often, when an archer slides the loop of a bow stringer up the limb to get better leverage to flex the bow, they inadvertently introduce a pulling force on the limb that can unseat it. After the string is installed, inspect the limb pocket areas for proper limb engagement.
I have had good experiences with my two Hoyt Pro Series dowel system bows, Formula Faktor 25 and Formula Prodigy XT 27. They simply require proper alignment, and proper assembly.

 

[kevinkal]

I also want to add that the pro series shimmed adjustment studs work very well for aligning a limb that has a slight twist in it. I wish all limbs were perfect, but they are composite of works of art, and thus may need a varying amount of alignment TLC.