Csar -

You have a 68" bow, so you need an AMO 68" string. (It will be about 65" in actually length.)
String it up and see what the brace height looks like. Optimal for those bows is about 8.5", but you can go up to 9". Twist in the direction that tightens the center serving.
If the string has twists, just go in the same direction.

CLEAN the riser with alcohol in the area you plan on putting the rest.
With the bow strung, screw in the plunger (rear hole, the one closest to you), and nock an arrow in the approximate position (doesn't have to be exact) on the string.
Hold the rest in position so the arrow is centered on the plunger button and angled slightly up, as in the diagram.
Mark that position (I use a piece of masking tape).
Remove the paper backing from the rest and affix it to the riser in the same position.

The odds are adding a real nocking point is the only other thing you'll need to do.
I usually check all the screws/bolts to make sure they are tight.

The limb will most likely be a tight fit for a while - deal with it...

Tiller check:
Once you have the correct brace height, measure the distance from the upper and lower limbs where they exits the riser to the string as you would measure brace height.
The distances should be equal or up to 1/4" SHORTER or the lower limb.

Limb alignment check:
Eyeball the string so it bisects the upper and lower limbs.
It should also bisect the the two limb bolt screw holes on the face of the riser.

Both the tiller and alignment should be fine from the factory.

If either doesn't, holler back and we can go over the procedures.

Csar, I though you had my book, it all in there, ya know...

edit -

I just noticed something - you have a 16 STRAND 68" DACRON String and a 70" 14 strand D97 string!!!
HUH?????
Call LAS, tell them you screwed and and get two AMO 68" 14 strand D97 strings.

Viper1 out.

 

Congrats on the new bow. Very nice riser and limbs. If you register at the site below you MAY be able to download a User's Manual or other info.:
http://www.sf-archery.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=94&Itemid=232&lang=en

Info. on first bow:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147

Some good form and exercise video:
http://www.archerygb.org/support/operations/coaches/coaching_videos.php

Also some tuning info. to use when you can shoot a group
(a copy from a site that may be down):
http://veraxservice.net/arch/tuning.htm

http://tradtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23783
http://www.texasarchery.org/BoardMembers/RickStonebrakerPages/TuningForTens/TuningForTens.html

Good Luck!

 

Thank you so much Tony, yes I have the book but I am slowly reading it or I should say slow reader. =D
But when I got this new toy.. I got so excited and just sat there clueless staring on the whole kit because the riser have no manuals. LOL
Then this forum came to my mind.. it was the 70" string that stunt me. LOL

wseward, thank you also for the link. :star:

 

Csar -

See above.

LAS shouldn't have sent you a 16 strand Dacron string for that bow, or a 70" string for that matter.
Definitely call them, they will make it right, if there any problem ask for John Wert - great guy.

(Neither string will "hurt" the bow, but you won't like the Dacron and the 70" will give you a stupid low brace height.)

Viper1 out.

 

I finally got a good response from LAS and they will replace my strings to D97 - 68". =)

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

Looks great all rigged up. I bet it shoots well!

 

Nice looking bow!

 

Congrats...that's a very nice rig you got there and is the same riser I almost ordered last weekend until I tripped over a riser deal in the classifieds I couldn't refuse...But I was going to order the 25" SF Forged+ just like you have there but in black with SF Elite Carbon Limbs..so yes...you have a very sweet rig there...I didn't click on the links wseward provided above but I suspect they are as follows...SF has their customer base reference "Online Manuals"...I believe rumor has it that it's part of their "going green" thing efforts and not wasting paper...who knows...who cares...as long as you have access to proper owners manual intel.

That said?...I just got back from the proshop where we weighed and chrono'ed my 27# Rig...and to me?...for that weight?...was shockingly fast...but...I'm using a 9 strand rhino string custom built by Rick Barbee and shooting .800 spine 15/25 carbon impact super club arrows that weight 240grs and it smokes my 37# Hunting/3D bows for "flat shooting"...reason I say this is not to brag here in your thread but to tell you that your rig there?...is worthy of far better than a generic stone mountain string and unless you're drawing like 32"s on that 30#er?...I think you are going to find .500 spine bemans both too stiff to tune and/or too heavy to get anything better than very near sluggish performance.

And FWIW?....The Super Club arrows are $69.99 a dozen pre-fletched with nocks, points and all...a great custom string is about $30...and together?...It's the $100 "on-the-cheap" combo-punch upgrade that could make a night and day difference in how that new rig of yours shoots...as in slow, sluggish and all over the place or?...extremely crisp, well-tuned, quick and accurate and trust me on this...a string can make or break a bow...a fantastic correctly matched string can make even a crappy bow decent shooting...but a crappy poor matched string?...can make the most expensive rig feel like a pile of pooh.

Congrats and L8R, Bill. :cool2:

 

Totally agree with Jinks except that the SC15/25 are more around 940 spine IIRC. The 20/30 at 810 spine and what I would recommend for this set-up. Their nocks require a string made for small groove G-nocks though so probably the 14st D97 will work provided they don't use thick serving.

-Grant

 

Thanks guys. =). This shoots great and smooth. I have installed the limb dampeners and helps cut down the vibration.

I am currently using the 16 strand Dacron (68"). I have to send back the other 2 for an exchange.

The .500 seems to be stiff but i can live with for now since i am only shooting 15 yards instinctive. I still have to learn to use with the sight. I have to go to the local proshop to tune the sight. I am afraid to break the arrows. =D

Also i wanted to ask about anchor points. Does it have to be on the lower jaw? I am so used to archor it on the corner of my mouth with my thumb.

 

 

My local shop is telling me brace height can be approximated by having the string sit about 1/2" free of the string groove in the limb. This seems to work for me. I have the SF Forged 25", Axiom+ long limbs in 30#, and just today SF Premium "Confiance" long in 40#. Dacron B50 string, 4" shorter than AMO . . . 70" AMO, 66" string 14 strand.

 

Generally with a sight you want to be anchoring under the jaw, but some people get beginners to anchor with their thumb hooking the back of the jaw and finger on a bottom tooth.

Anchoring with the thumb isn't generally a good idea and really sounds like you weren't getting a full draw, unless I'm misunderstanding you.

I shoot both with and without a sight. I don't try to use the same anchor for both.

-Grant

 

Hi Bill (jinxster), where can I buy those custom string and the arrows you mentioned? Do LAS carry those?

 

All that stuff hanging off that bow . . . Can you get WiFi on it? *LMAO*

I'm jerking your chain here. Every time I'm in the shop, I have a look at the stabilizers. I think maybe the best feature I added to my bows is a wrist sling. With the sling, I can seat the grip in the thumb web and not not need to grip w/ the fingers. No more torquing.

30# limbs Axiom+ (long) on this rig I'm shooting Beman 750/14 spine 77gr. piles, 29.5" arrows. 40# SF Premier (not carbon), I'm shooting 500 spine Easton Gamegetter, 125gr. piles, 30".

 

I am playing by adding weights to the bow but that seems doesn't do any advantage at all. Probably because shooting at 15 yards you dont get enough feedbacks. LOL

I am going to set this aside until I get the correct string size and proper spine arrows, otherwise I am just going to get frustrated. =)

 

You gonna love that bow......I have the Sebastion Flute riser (25") with long 28lb Kaya limbs and love the bow.....

 

What he said!

I was all over the place with this bow until I corrected the brace height. I was about an inch or more high. Arrow selection is crucial! Beeman / Easton has a "shaft selector" --

Shaft Selector - | Easton Archery
www.eastonarchery.com/store/shaft_selector/‎

It wants you to select a "cam" -- one of which is a recurve bow. It won't let you move on until you "select a cam." Also, be sure you specify "target" at the top of the page so that you get into the target weight draw and arrow piles (tips). My shop says this chart is a bit "stiff." -- But it seems to be working fairly well for me.

Three springs included with the plunger rest. The shop set up the spring for me. I have no clue, but can see that the two remaining springs in the package are different weights. I have appliance box corrugated cardboard faces on my target (straw) bales. Start with a clean sheet of cardboard and check to see where the arrows are grouping.

Left group is stiff on the arrow spine. Right group is soft on the arrow spine. Tweak the plunger, both the spring tension and plunger position accordingly -- Viper1, above, discusses this adjustment. The plunger adjust is very sweet, effective. I was amazed how it moves grouping. Set screws in the adjust knobs read like the index on a dial. Pay attention to which direction and how much you're moving the knobs. Approx. at 20 yds a full turn of the screws moves the group maybe a foot -- more or less. I'm guessing it's going to vary by draw weight and arrow spine stiffness.

Bow square is the best money on tuning I've spent. It's an essential aid for tuning!

My first bow was poorly tuned, and the string stretched after some couple hundred arrows. Joel at the shop tuned it up for me, and the tuning adjustment was night/day in the performance.

Don't be too overwhelmed! There are lots of fine points to archery, and it all needs to work together. Consistent form/technique develops, and you'll eventually come to appreciate fine tuning.

First days in the Archery Barn I bought 3 straw bales, shot high and wide out into the woods for a few days. Went out day-one and bought a FOURTH straw bale so I might at least not shoot over the top. I started w/ a 40# bow at 20 yards. Probably should have started w/ a 25# bow at 10 yards . . .

I asked Joel at the shop about the difference between the $250 SF Forged and a $600 Hoyt riser. "Well, about $350, and the Hoyt is US mfg. while the SF is imported. Actually, the Hoyt is probably imported too . . . with a US mfg. logo . . . "

Nice gear!

 

Just to join the fan club of this riser.

Anyone considering buying an SF Forged Plus riser - don't have any hesitation, it's a terrific product. The machining and finish as excellent. This riser gets envious club at my range, even from guys with risers at three times the price.

I got mine in the matte grey color. And yes, it does come in a separate "dark matte grey" color that is a beautiful dark grey charcoal - except it now seems to be on permanent backorder.

Got mine set up with some Tradtech Black Maxx limbs, pretty good for the price. Mine were rated at 35lb for a 17" riser, which translates to 28lb on the SF's 25" size.

 

Another member asked me to post some more pics, for a better idea on color.

So my original is the matte grey color. Brushed finish, almost like very fine grit sandpaper.

Also managed to get my hands on a second one cheap (thanks AT classifieds!). The blue is a polished anodized finish, also very pretty.

Can't go wrong with the quality of this riser, esp for the price.

 

For the clicker does it take the 6-32A

 

I'm planning on ordering the SF Forged+ 23" riser. Does anyone have opinions on this shorter riser? They look like a great riser.
DaveMP

 

Looks like you have gotten some great advice. I have 2 of those risers one has 36 pound Winex limbs the other 30 pound SF premium plus carbon . The 14 strand D97 string is hands down the best string I have shot on the lighter limbs, with best consistency coming at 8 5/8 brace height. It shoots well with ACC 3L-04's indoors (.750 spine) and Easton carbon ones ( 720 spine ) outdoors served with .018 62xs and small groove g nocks. Congratulations , you will have tons of fun with it.

 

Where does one get the Super Club arrows for $69.00 as mentioned by Jinkster in his post?
Dave

 

Lancaster has them. they will come fletched and nocks put in. The points will be loose.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/carbon-impact-super-club-arrow.html

 

Here's the CI chart for y'all

Carbon Impact Arrow Configurations

Superclubs come with brass points and carbon impact press in nocks these only come small grove
Ultrafasts come with Stainless break off points, Pin's and Pin nocks. You can get small and large groove.

Ultrafast Green have a tolerance of +/- .003"
Ultrafast Orange have a tolerance of +/- .004"
Ultrafast Yellow have a tolerance of +/- .006"
Ultrafast Yellow can be purchased prefletched.

Sizes and uncut length

Super Club 5/15 (1500 spine) - 27 3/4"
Super Club 10/20 (1200 spine) - 28 3/4"
Super Club 15/25 (950 spine) - 30 1/4"
Super Club 20/30 (820 spine) - 30 3/4"
Super Club 30/40 (620 spine) - 31 3/4"
Super Club 40/50 (500 spine)- 32 3/4"

Ultra Fast 1500 - 27 3/4"
Ultra Fast 1200 - 28 3/4"
Ultra Fast 950 - 30 1/4"
Ultra Fast 820 30 3/4"
Ultra Fast 710 31 1/4"
Ultra Fast 620 31 3/4"
Ultra Fast 550 32 1/4"
Ultra Fast 500 32 3/4"
Ultra Fast 450 33 1/4"
Ultra Fast 400 33 1/4"


Prices - MSRP per doz

Superclub shafts = 72.73
Superclub arrows = 78.33
Ultrafast Shafts Yellow label = 86.74
Ultrafast Shafts Orange label = 95.48
Ultrafast Shafts Green label = 110.32
Ultrafast Arrows Yellow label = 97.94

 

Same riser, different limbs but at the same length. I love it. I hope you do too.

 

Like others in this thread I just bought a SF Forge Plus and am a first time builder. I put the limbs in as I have read and in the unstrung condition the limbs are loose under the tiller bolt, yet when strung are tight and all looks good. I assume this is correct. Please confirm.

Thanks in advance - Blake