[Joe Hohmann]

If something does not feel right, try a different arrow. One of my bows is a 20# Martin that I bought for "new" people to try. A perfect match for it was supposed to be Easton Jazz 1716. Every shot landed far left. Tried them on my 30# Shakespeare...far left. Tried them on my 30# Hoyt PM5...far left. Tried my regular arrows, which are ICS Hunter Juniors, on the Martin...right-on. At first I just assumed the Martin was at "fault".

 

[Bender]

This is really the conclusion that I have reached concerning the printed charts. They are wildly inaccurate for single string shooters. Except for when they are very accurate!

It seems to be a "problem" that is caused by the fact that with a single string bow, there are more equipment variables, and WAY more individual form and execution variables that can have a greater impact on dynamic spine spine and arrow behavior than if you were shooting a fully rigged compound bow.

 

[HonkAddict]

I've found that they can get you close... But the best bet is to buy a test kit of shafts. Especially because the charts don't factor in what kind of trad bow you're shooting or your point weight.
Some charts will have the cute point weights compound guys use, but nothing 200-400+ grains on the front end.

Best to get a close idea then buy a couple different spine shafts and put your desired weight on a full length shaft and trim it until it flies straight.

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[Nick728]

As mentioned, slight changes can make a huge difference. Yesterday an arrow that was weaker than the charts showed stiff. Slight adjustments showed, with bare shaft, the same arrow weak making the charts correct. Charts are a starting point that favor a stiffer side. Rest, brace height, plunger, no plunger, side plates, center shot, off the shelf, glue on rest, adjustable rest, arrow length, arrow point weight and lets not forget your release form are all variables that prove charts can only be a "safe" staring point. Requiring a half spine, full spine or several spines different than chart recommendations isn't unusual after tuning your bow to your form. Tuning a traditional bow is a labor of love, tuning a target bow can't be done without a great deal of testing by a very consistent shooter.
Nick

 

[3D Archery]

Byron Ferguson said this is what he does:

If using a Dacron string, subtract five pounds from your draw weight
If using a bow NOT cut to center, subtract five pounds from the draw weight - he also said it goes by how much it is not cut to center

So for me, using his formula, I need to look for arrows for a bow 10 pounds lighter

 

[GCook]

I used the three Rivers calculator and it was pretty much dead on.

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Yep

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