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how much Kinetic energy do i need?

6.3K views 25 replies 20 participants last post by  Tbonecpa  
#1 ·
Slowly buying tools to do my own work at home and I got my grain scale in, measured all my arrows all between 446.2 and 444.6, I plugged my numbers into Easton's kinetic energy calculator at 271 fps with 445 grains I'm getting 72.59-foot lbs. How does this translate into initial contact and pass through on an animal? Also, I'm at 65# 27.5 draw length how does this compare to anyone else's setup?
 
#22 ·
That’s your momentum above. You have way more than you “ need”. 25 ft-lbs will kill any deer, or deer sized game. Momentum is what you are after. That’s what drives arrow through after impact.
what happens to the KE at impact?
 
#7 ·
Found this info a long time ago. Modern bows outperform old bows by far wrt to KE so you could do more with less. Note this is also guidelines and not law as I understand this.

5.4.4 AMERICAN GUIDELINES

Small Game
(rabbit, groundhog, etc.)
Mass (gr) : 300
Velocity (fps) : 200
Kinetic Energy : 25
Momentum% : 27

Medium Game (deer, antelope, etc.)
Mass (gr) : 350
velocity (fps) : 230
Kinetic Energy : 40
Momentum% : 36

Large Game (elk, black bear, wild boar, etc.)
Mass (gr) : 500
Velocity (fps) : 240
Kinetic Energy : 65
Momentum% : 53

Toughest Game (Grizzly, etc.)
Mass (gr) : 500
Velocity (fps) : 240
Kinetic Energy : 65
Momentum% : 53

NAMIBIA GUIDELINES

Category : Small antelope’s ex. Blesbuck
mass(gr) : 300
velocity(fps) : 200
Kinetic Energy : 25
momentum% : 27

Category : Midsize antelope’s ex. Kudu, Warthog
mass(gr) : 350
velocity(fps) : 230
Kinetic Energy : 40
momentum% : 36

Category : Large antelope’s ex. Eland, Gemsbok
mass(gr) : 500
velocity(fps) : 235
Kinetic Energy : 60
momentum% : 52
 
#9 ·
For me, a faster and lighter arrow is more deadly as long as you have enough kinetic energy. If I had your rig I would use lighter arrows that are more accurate, that don't arc as much during flight, and get to the animal faster. Speed is a part of the kinetic energy equation so you will find that gaining speed and losing some weight won't effect your ke enough to worry about with your rig for deer.
 
#10 ·
The broadhead you choose is a factor on how much energy you need for the game you are hunting. A mechanical loses energy when deploying the blades, the leftovers are used for penetration. If the head integrity is compromised and the arrow path changes after impact, that will burn valuable energy as well. A fixed head is more efficient in utilizing the available energy to penetrate.
 
#12 ·
Although I use a mechanical BH on turkeys and have also killed some whitetails with them, this overview is accurate. I envision a mechanical head as loosely similar to a "muscle car" that spins it's rear tires in a great show of sound and burned rubber smoke....the classic burn out.... without rapidly gaining speed with that power. A fixed head is a fast car that utilizes all the horse power on the surface of the road to do an impressive 0-60 time. Both vehicles have adequate horse power and potential, but how they expend it makes a big difference.
 
#11 ·
You are fine but KE calculators are not a good gauge IMO. You can have a lot of "KE" and then use a light arrow & poor broad head choice and get worse penetration than another hunter with less KE by the calculator.........it leaves out too many facts to be accurate IMO.

Very ballpark
 
#14 ·
Thanks for all the info guys I did move to alaska this winter and am growing confidence in my self and in my equipment for future big game hunts, as much I love bow hunting it want to be as efficient as possible out of respect for my game