Take a metal ruler and cut it so you are at 1.75 past the pipe or bar you have on your db. You will also have to account for the bar width. So mine is a inch so you will cut off 2.75” off the end and should be perfect. If your bar is 1.25” take off that also. Or if you have a ruler and don’t wanna run it from pip measure along the db to say 25” and cut ruler at according so you only have the measurements where you need them.


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The point that your bow's grip makes contact with the draw board post is the 1.75" mark. Continue marking/counting increments from that point to however long you need.

 

^^^^ Yup, this is correct. But, just get a 3 foot wooden ruler that feed stores and other places give out free. Nail or screw it to your drawboard. Measurement marks are much easier to see than a metal ruler (at least with my aging eyes)!

 

Yardstick, metal or wooden. Find a short length of wood, and hold the block of wood at 90 degrees to the yardstick. Get the edge at the 1-3/4 inch mark. Bolt the block of wood to the yardstick. You have a HOOK ruler now. So, hook the pipe of your draw board. Now, drill through the yardstick and attach the yardstick to the backbone of your draw board.

The wooden hook touches the pipe, exactly how your bow grip touches the pipe. That spot where the pipe and the bow grip touch, this is where you would also hook a tape measure, you always ADD 1.75-inches to this spot, where the wooden hook captures the pipe of your draw board.

 

most accurate way is to get a scale on an arrow
easton used to make one
i use the easton arrow (after cutting 1.75" off back and installing a gnock).
eliminates any paralax, but you need to transpose the grip up to riser.
Fortunately, most bows place the berger hole there, but if not use a bow square to find it easy.
Much more precise for tweeking/setting DL.