Folks do it differently, here’s how I set mine up. I st the elevation to center before I install the rest , put rest on bow and then if you have a vise put bow to perfectly level both ways and set center shot or rest to 13/16. Then I have angles cut I use. If you take a thick piece of paper and and draw a line 1” and then go over 1 7/16” you get a triangle with an angle of 35 degrees. Do same thing with 1” and 1 3/4” and you get an angle of 30 degrees. I use this to set my blade angle at 30 degrees. Then I knock an arrow with center of arrow in center of berger hole and and then clamp nock under or over so nock doesn’t move. Then I get arrow level and then raise rest up until the blade just does touch the arrow. Tie in my nock point under the nock and then put on dloop. Now with bow level in vise lay arrow on blade, blade will sag at rest , but at full draw it will be laying on blade very lightly and become level. Shoot through paper. Fix left and right tears first, then up and down. If high tear raise rest a little, if low tear , drop rest a little. I run a 10 blade on all my bows. You don’t want an overly stiff blade and you don’t want a blade that bends crazy amounts under arrow weight. The blade is not to support your arrow , but guide it at full draw

 

There is a nice video with jesse broadwater showing how he sets up a blade rest, I used it back when I shot a blade and it helped and is easy to follow.

 

Put bow sideways on your dining room table top. This takes out gravity and makes setup much more accurate.



I used DVD boxes to prop up the arrow to horizontal. You will need to use placemats (or whatever you have) to prop up the upper and lower limbs, as well.

 

Bottom out your vertical adjust on the blade rest, so the blade has no contact with the arrow tube. Arrow is propped up on DVD boxes, so the arrow is dead parallel to your table top. Swing arrow to a perfect 90 degrees to the bowstring (level nock travel and all that). A sheet of printer paper has perfect 90 degree corners, so you can use a sheet of printer paper to check that the arrow is 90 degrees to your bowstring. Of course, the arrow will be dead parallel to your target sight extension arm.

 

Now, we work your vertical micro adjust knob for the blade rest. You DO have a micro adjust on your blade rest, right? Super convenient during the tuning stages. So, spin the micro adjust knob to move the blade rest UP towards the arrow. My micro adjust knob is CLICK adjustable, just like a target sight. EACH click, moves my blade rest exactly 0.002-inches. Super handy during the tuning stages.



CONTACT. This is why I do this with the bow sideways on top of my dining table. GRAVITY does not work against you. I have ZERO bending on the blade, and I have the lightest possible contact with the blade V notch and the arrow tube. This is dead PERFECT level nock travel, and absolute perfect height for the blade rest within 0.002-inches...at least STARTING point for vertical adjust on the blade rest. Final tuning will only be 2 or 3 or 4 clicks on the vertical micro adjust.

 

Weight of the arrow causes the blade to SAG. This is a GOOD thing. WHY? Cuz, the blade is a leaf spring suspension. The blade only GUIDES the arrow, during arrow launch. The arrow accelerates SOOOOO fast, the nock starts moving forwards BEFORE the point of the arrow starts moving forwards. This compresses the arrow tube and the arrow bends up and down and up and down, during the arrow launch. So, the blade LEAF SPRING suspension is designed to work as a SHOCK absorber....to calm down the bending of the arrow tube. WE can INCREASE the leaf spring suspension stiffness by moving the blade in the UP direction, several THOUSANDTHS of an inch. Paper for the computer printer is 0.003-inches thick. WE can DECREASE the leaf spring suspension by moving the blade in the DOWN direction. How do I know if I need MORE stiffness or LESS stiffness?

Simple. Try both directions and see what gives you the TIGHTEST groups. Start with 30 degrees BLADE angle and the thinnest possible blade (0.008 thick). BUT, I use heavy arrows? Don't matter. The blade is not a sofa cushion. The blade is a LEAF spring suspension, so we are tuning for arrow BENDING. If you are shooting GoldTip Triple X arrows, then, you are using REBAR stiff arrows, with very little bending. So, with very little ARROW bending, you need EXTREMELY little dampening, you want super SOFT shock absorber settings, so use the lightest possible THINNEST possible blade. BUT, I have 300 grain points. DOn't matter. BUT, I am using full length Triple X arrows and....don't matter your ARROW weight. The blade is about reducing arrow BENDING during arrow launch. BUT, my blade SAAAAAAAGGGS soooo much. Don't matter. You have vanes and the VANES will lift up the arrow to LEVEL Arrow flight. That's what vanes DO.

So, I am shooting skinny 400 spine Carbon Express Nano XR arrows, with only 120 grains up front. So, these PROPER spine arrows are gonna flex a bit more than the super FAT carbons. Even so, I had to DROP the arrow rest blade, about 2-3 clicks...about 0.006 inches (two sheets of paper thick)...for Tightest Groups.

Why 30 degrees? Cuz, that makes the blade behave SOFTER and increases the sweet spot for vertical tuning of your blade rest. If you tune your blade rest TOO HIGH, the blade reacts too stiff and you get that DREADED NOCK HIGH paper tear with a blade rest. If you tune the blade rest TOO LOW, then the blade will give you that DREADED NOCK HIGH paper tear. If you set the blade rest angle at 45 degrees, this is too steep, and the blade reacts TOO STIFF, and you end up with the DREADED NOCK HIGH paper tear. Lots of ways to screw up a blade rest setup, and end up with a NOCK HIGH PAPER TEAR that never seems to go away.

 

Thanks all. Nuts and Bolts you my hero!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDLmcqeA4IU

 

Great post


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