I have them on my GMX - about 50 bucks a pair from LAS, very good design, steel bolts with floating head, much improved design from the original aluminum limb bolts on my GMX that I stripped

 

Less likelihood of stripping according to this poster. I like the idea that the floating head will make for more flush contact with the limb butt.

 

What would be the advantage to use this instead of the original on the GMX?

 

I am interested in hearing any responses to this as well. I have a GMX with the old bolts and at this point don't see spending the bucks to upgrade unless there is going to be some tangible reason. Anecdotal or statistical differences and comparison would be interesting. As with a lot of us the bow outshoots me by a long shot already, so is it worth it?

 

I've actually wondered in my head why this floating bolt head design want done years ago...it makes that much sense...I'll likely have a pair of these soon...Just as soon as I decide which riser will be my dedicated riser from now until summer.................Jim

 

newb question here.. would i need to change those on my Horizon riser?

 

Does anybody know:
What risers do the Pro Series Tiller Bolt fit? GMX, RX, and HPX evidently. Other maker's risers?
In the photos of the Pro Series bolts there is no locking bolt. Are these simply deemed unnecessary due to the bolt design, or does Hoyt have another method of making sure the limb bolts don't loosen up?
Thanks.

 

Not sure what other risers they fit. They fit my GMX They do use the locking bolt. If your existing aluminum bolts aren't stripping or damaged, I don't see the need to replace them, I could think of other things (vodka) to spend 50 bucks on.

 

HAHAHAHA thank you! I would think with more contact on the limb it may change vibration a little but I dont know what else would change. I think I will try them when I next order from lancaster! Thank you guys!

Have a great day,
Kasey

 

There is a locking hex screw for the Pro Series limb bolt. The floating head as a protective ring that doesn't mar the limbs. I have them on my GMX. I'm a novice but the vibration I felt after the shot was minimal compared to my friend who had the same setup with the old bolts.

I would imagine that they'll fit any Hoyt riser. Of course, I could be wrong on this but the threading should be the same for all risers dating back to the GM/TD4.

my 2¢

 

I would imagine that they'll fit any Hoyt riser. Of course, I could be wrong on this but the threading should be the same for all risers dating back to the GM/TD4.

I seem to recall that Hoyt started using a finer pitch thread on their limb bolts for their high-end risers, beginning with the GMX.

 

This Border bow appears to use pivoting limb bolts to wind in the limbs farther than usual.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1719233&p=1063650887#post1063650887

Normal bolts have a maximum distance they can be wound in before the edge of the limb butt stops contacting the bolt head and the curved edge of the bolt head starts eating up the front of the limb instead. With a pivoting limb bolt, this doesn't happen and the bolt head can pivot with the limb at more than perpendicular angles.

Therefore it may be possible to use pivoting limb bolts to get more adjustment range out of your limbs.

Has anyone tried this out on a Formula or GMX?

 

But Kasey, if you put shiny stainless bolts on that camo GMX, everybody will see you!

 

HAHAHAHA I know right Blades, Sorry I didnt see you this past weekend. I was writing papers and getting ready for tests, wish I wouldve been shooting! I am telling you if you can hit what your aiming at before they see the glint of the tiller bolts, than shiny doesnt matter! hahaha

Have a great day guys! Thank you for all the input!

Kasey

 

I also think that they offer the pro series on the horizons now so I would assume that they are the same thread pattern.

 

Or is it only the Grand Prix Horizon that has the new thread pattern?

 

Just talked to lancaster, they say they will work on both Horizons

 

Yea I understand rick11743, maybe it's re-inventing the wheel, but if there is anything to "Border bow appears to use pivoting limb bolts to wind in the limbs farther than usual" and I can get more pre-load and have the bolt head sit flat and transfer vibration differently (maybe), then 50 bucks may just be worth it. As a community I am pretty sure we obsess (over think) about most of the small stuff (micro adjustments)! HAHAHA

Have a great day,
Kasey

 

Plus marketing hype! gets me everytime... gotta try the new stuff, maybe it'll make me shoot better than mediocre.

 

Sorry to bring an old topic,

will this tiller bolts fit on other ILF Riser (non- HOYT) ?

 

I messed up the threads on one of the bolts of my W&W Inno CXT riser and searched a replacement. I now use two (!) Hoyt tiller bolts instead (for the upper limb). One as a tiller bolt, and another as a stopper since I didnt have any spare stopper screws. The Pro Series bolts would also fit. It´s the same threads and the Hoyt bolt fits fine. I think all carbon risers from W&W use the same threads, but I am not totally sure about that.

 

On a SF Forged+:

 

They'll fit a Horizon riser. I stripped the locking screw on my HPX and borrowed one from a old Horizon riser.

 

The real reason for the success of Hoyt: metric tiller bolts.

They (classic and Pro series tiller bolts) should fit to SF (at least to the SF Forged+) and to some W&W risers too. But the counter screw mechanism is totally different.

 

I have both standard and Pro and if blind folded I wouldn't be able to tell which I'm using. The rotating head on the Pro Series seems to be less damaging to the end of the limb butt which is why I wanted to try them and I think they do a stellar job.

Then...recently my bow was mysteriously out of alignment which made no sense since I hadn't made any changes other than to unstring/string it. What I found is that one of the bottom washers had detached from the head and this changed the way the limb butt seated. Super Glue and Elmer's did not work for repairing it...sooooo, I tossed both washers.

However...the bottom of the floating head has a ridge around the outer edge that rims the washer. Sooooo, I filed/600 grit sanded them both until the bottoms were flat and smooth. The bow is now aligned and stable and just as quiet as it has always been.

Caveat: Without the teflon? washer, I would not try to adjust the tiller bolt strung.

ymmv

View attachment 4549490

 

Thank you guys for the respond

I just broke my locking bolt while try to unscrew the tiller bolts, hence I need replacement.

So this fancy bolts will be my options then

 

Or get the stumps out and find a replacement locking bolt.