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Knocking point or rest.

2.4K views 5 replies 6 participants last post by  Deezlin  
#1 · (Edited)
I have bought one of those bubble levels systems to see how accurate my pro shop was and found they we're aiming me a bit downward. I have a drop-away rest (NAP 2000) and rotated it up so the arrow is perpindicular:embara: to the bow string as to where they set up my knock point.

My question is, do I go with where they knocked me and adjust my rest to make the arrow level or adjust my knock to where my arrow is level and closest to the shelf without interfering with the vanes?

Simply, what comes first, the knock or the rest?

p.s. after raising the rest height it makes a noise as it dosn't have the rubber on the shelf to bang against. And would this "leveling" that I induce get my pins on my sight higher than starting in the middle and going down?
 
#3 ·
Sounds like you have a good pro shop. They did it right. First, most bows shoot better just a tad nock high. Second, the rest is supposed to contact the bow's shelf when it is all the way down. That's why they put it there.
 
#4 ·
I also agree that most bows will shoot better when they are a little nock high. It helps the arrow to clear the rest cleaner. As far as arrow height on the rest, it should be centered with the berger button hole and the nock set from there.
 
#5 ·
boojo 35 is exactly right and also it depends on your make of bow and your form to determine nok heighth the best way to set your nok heighth is to paper tune then field tune !!!
 
#6 · (Edited)
Sabunim38 said:
My question is, do I go with where they knocked me and adjust my rest to make the arrow level or adjust my knock to where my arrow is level and closest to the shelf without interfering with the vanes?

Simply, what comes first, the knock or the rest?
Well, as has already been said, with most non-dropping rests you need to have the nock point higher than square. I like about a 1/4 to an 1/8 at rest. It depends a little on the brace height. The idea here is the rest should not slide down the full length of the arrow and the fletching will clear over the top of the rest.

If you want to change this relationship the easiest way is at the rest. You don't want to get any higher over the berger hole than possible, but a little isn't going to make a lot of difference, if any.

I would think, for a drop-away, you could go almost square, but being over a little isn't a problem.

Sabunim38 said:
...and closest to the shelf without interfering with the vanes?
I really am not sure how to answer this. Are you talking about your center shot? You want to make sure you have your center shot set or you will have a lot of lefts or right sighting problems. This can be statically set by a GKF True-Center Gauge or a similar tool. Or you can do a walk back tuning, if you have the necessary shooting skill.

Sabunim38 said:
p.s. after raising the rest height it makes a noise as it dosn't have the rubber on the shelf to bang against. And would this "leveling" that I induce get my pins on my sight higher than starting in the middle and going down?
Well, you may have to lower the nock point or added some thickness to the rubber shelf. The "leveling" that you induced may have an effect on the sight pins. You really need to shoot in through paper at a couple of distances and see if the arrow is flying nock high. The fletchings will level the arrow pretty fast coming out of the bow.