Either the tool is not built properly or your rest is set outside centershot. Those things are worthless anyway. Just eyeball it and get to tuning. That laser won't ensure your bow gets tuned.

 

I use one (mainly because I spent the $$$ for it) and it works to get you close enough to skip the paper stand and go straight to bareshafting....

 

Yeah, thanks both.

It’s a cheaper ($50 USD) tool, and I’m starting to suspect it’s junk.

The bows shooting fletched through paper at 5 meters and bareshaft bullet holes at 15 meters, with Center shot set a fraction over 5/8 inch (shoots massive tail right at 13/16). Also 5/8 is where the laser hits both nock and point but misses pretty much the enter arrow shaft length.

I was hoping to make some sense of it, but might just bin the laser and put the rest back at 16.5mm (just over 5/8).

 

Yeah, thanks both.

It’s a cheaper ($50 USD) tool, and I’m starting to suspect it’s junk.

The bows shooting fletched through paper at 5 meters and bareshaft bullet holes at 15 meters, with Center shot set a fraction over 5/8 inch (shoots massive tail right at 13/16). Also 5/8 is where the laser hits both nock and point but misses pretty much the enter arrow shaft length.

I was hoping to make some sense of it, but might just bin the laser and put the rest back at 16.5mm (just over 5/8).

That doesn't make sense. To fix a nock right you move the rest to the left so moving the rest to the left should cause more of a nock left condition if anything. Better check for contact.

 

To reset the "SET System" place an arrow on the flat side of the cam and adjust so the arrow is parallel to the bow string, don't forget the lock down bolt.
Use a rubber band to hold an arrow on the riser above the arrow rest, place an arrow on the rest and adjust center shot so the two arrows are parallel. Shoot through paper and adjust "SET" (loosen the lock down bolt), There are directions on which way to turn the SET adjustment bolt on the riser depending on the arrow tear. Recheck center shot and confirm with paper or bare shaft. You may need to adjust center shot after adjusting the "SET".
There was a video with Nathan Brooks and Darrin Christenberry from Elite on tuning with the SET System. Check the Elite site or YouTube.
I had 2 Elite Rezults, easiest bows I ever set-up. I just couldn't get along with the reflex riser. Wish they would put the system on a deflex riser.

 

Thanks @Bikeman CU

It took me 3 hours but eventually I got Center shot lined up at 21mm (a hair over 13/16 inch). Both top and bottom cams needed 3/4 of the available right tear on the SET screws to get out from the riser, which surprised me to be honest.

It will be interesting to see how it shoots through paper.

 

Can someone give me a sanity check on the following:

Yesterday I set center-shot on my Elite Rezult to 21mm (essentially 13/16 inch).

To get a nocked arrow on the rest to run parallel with an arrow on the riser, without moving center-shot from 21mm, I used the SET Technology, the arrow only lined up when I adjusted the SET Technology on both cam pockets 3/4 of the full range toward "Right Tear".

This achieved nocked arrow perfectly parallel with arrow on riser with a center-shot of 21mm, but I was a little concerned with how far I had pushed the SET towards full adjustment clockwise / "Right Tear", with the cams now leaning (both outer cams / cam tops leaning right) - So today I tried to take some of the lean out by adjusting the cable guard. I pushed the guard in (left) towards the riser / rest.

Does this sound correct for this cam lean?

I'm hoping that when I come to shoot the bow, over the next few days, I'll have induced a nock left and therefore be able to bring the SET back closer to middle / center.

 

Can someone give me a sanity check on the following:

Yesterday I set center-shot on my Elite Rezult to 21mm (essentially 13/16 inch).

To get a nocked arrow on the rest to run parallel with an arrow on the riser, without moving center-shot from 21mm, I used the SET Technology, the arrow only lined up when I adjusted the SET Technology on both cam pockets 3/4 of the full range toward "Right Tear".

This achieved nocked arrow perfectly parallel with arrow on riser with a center-shot of 21mm, but I was a little concerned with how far I had pushed the SET towards full adjustment clockwise / "Right Tear", with the cams now leaning (both outer cams / cam tops leaning right) - So today I tried to take some of the lean out by adjusting the cable guard. I pushed the guard in (left) towards the riser / rest.

Does this sound correct for this cam lean?

I'm hoping that when I come to shoot the bow, over the next few days, I'll have induced a nock left and therefore be able to bring the SET back closer to middle / center.

In the most simple terms, to reduce a nock right you want the top cam to lean more like this / and the bottom to lean more like this \. However that's done, that will reduce a nock right or cause a nock left. Rotating the cable rod away from the center of the bow, for a right handed bow, will increase that lean and will further reduce a nock right or make more of a nock left. You've moved your cable rod the wrong way if you're trying to cause a nock left.

That said, you have to be careful doing all that stuff and causing a bunch of lean in the cams. Too much lean at brace means way too much lean at full draw which can result in derailing the string. Most bows that I've worked on, being vertical at brace was all the more "lean" they needed to tune well. If your top cam is visibly leaning like this / at brace, you might want to draw back really slowly to watch that lean and make sure it's not going to go to far and derail.

 

Thank you @Huntinsker

That’s a great explanation, and helps me understand that I did reduce cam lean by moving the cable guard, but overall this will only increase the tail right (and not be beneficial in getting SET closer to centre).

I’m quite unsure when looking at cam lean.

The string is level in the photo’s below.

The top cam does appear to lean like /, more so if I measure from the left side of the cam plate than the right, which makes no sense to me as the cam plate looks flat on both sides.



Arrow on left side of top cam plate

Arrow on right side of top cam plate

Does this amount of cam lean at brace appear okay? Or should I be aiming to get it straighter?

Do you feel I should be okay with the SET wound more than 3/4 towards ‘Right Tear’ on both cams, or do I need to consider:

A) shimming the cams

or

B) putting centershot back at 5/8 inch to get SET back closer to center

What would you be considering if this were your setup?

 

I've honestly not worked on a bow with the SET system so I can't speak to it and what would be good or bad. As far as the amount of lean you're showing there, it's more than most bows will have but it doesn't seem "extreme". Each bow reacts differently through the draw cycle though and some cams will lean harder when the bow is drawn than others. If you haven't already, make sure you take that first couple draws slowly so you can watch the cams and stop and let down if it looks like they are leaning too much as you draw.

If you find that you're unable to tune the bow with the set anywhere near the middle of the adjustment without the rest way out of centershot, you might consider shimming the cams. A small shim change can make a big difference so it could allow you to get things back more in the middle.

Might also want to watch your cables closely after moving the cable rod in so close to the arrow and see if you don't pick up some contact with the cables.

 

So I had some time and tried pulling the cables guard as far away from the riser as it will adjust.

This hardly seemed to effect the cam lean, but it did pull the point of a nocked arrow farther left and away from the arrow on the riser.

So..I then moved the cable guard as close as I could to the riser:

Again I couldn’t perceive much effect on the cam lean, but it moved the point of the nocked arrow towards the arrow on the riser (and no longer parallel), which allowed me to wind the SET in the “Left Tear” direction to get the arrows parallel again. In doing so moving the SET much closer to center.

I’m still a little fuzzy on the theory, but overall this looks like a better set up, center shot closer to 13/16 inch (it's a hair under), cams leaning no more than before, and arrows running in parallel.

hopefully I’ve got it right this time.