[ranchoarcher]

Are there any adjustments that need made to the nock point if switching to a three finger under hold? Currently it's about 1/8 above center on the string. On the bow I intend to use for jack rabbits the sight window is too short to install a sight holding it one over and two under. That was determined at 25 yards. This bow started life at 25lbs but I just picked up some 35lb limbs and it seems suitable for taking out jacks at a distance. With a three under hold there is enough gap to get a sight installed and be usable. Are there any other adjustments that should be made to shooting it? I gave it a whirl last night just to see how it feels and didn't notice much beyond the balance feeling slightly different. Beside coming up with a way to keep the finger tab in the same position by having the top edge only touching the bottom edge of nock, it all seems the same.

 

[bradd7]

Wow, this is a difficult to answer since your nock point is determined by your release and how much pressure you have on each finger. Bareshaft with no proposing or fletch interference and you're close enough. Everything is relative.

Tuning is a personal experience and varies between the abilities of each archer. There is no magic, just work and time.

 

[ranchoarcher]

It take that to mean there is no set standard then. Fair enough. When I tried it out I didn't notice a real impact on accuracy. The arrows are spined at 600 and 29 inches. Finger pressure is about even on all three or so it seems. I'm not trying to apply any more pressure to any of them over another. They seemed to fly a little left of center at 25 yards. About 3 inches which can be easily compensated for and is what prompted the question.

 

[bradd7]

Okay then, fair enough. Nock height controls the amount of up and down wobble the arrow has and can affect the impact based on whether it's in the down or up wobble at the time. Therefore it can also influence where the group lands. Side to side impact is another thing,UNLESS you have a riser contact that may influence the side to side impact.

BUT, form plays a major role. If you are plucking then the groups will go right and probably high. If it is a tuning problem that you want to compensate for now...you'll get better form and have to readjust later...

So.....If you are hitting left, the spine is 'showing' weak. You have options. You can; increase your limb weight, or give your string a couple of twists out/down in brace (make the arrow behave weak) or move your feet to more open, or bring the draw shoulder more around to increase the anchor/back muscle tension and thus weaken the spine.

 

[ranchoarcher]

The last two options effectively increase the draw length? If I read this right the arrows are a tad stiff for this setup? The string unwinding would probably be the better option for me. I've just got the form down to where I'm square, upright, and level. I'm not experienced enough to start tweaking that. The next limbs up would be 40 which is just 10 pounds short of the 50 that I started with. I'll try the string adjustment and see how that goes. Worse case I can just live with it and make the adjustment at shot time. I've also got some 500 spined arrows at 29. Those were for the 50 but I guess I can try those to see what they do. More excuses to shoot arrows. Need as many as those as I can get to justify it to the misses.

 

[sharpbroadhead]

Generally speaking, when shooting 3 under your nock locator(s) need to be raised. The only way to know where to place the nock locator is to tune - there is no standard.

 

[bradd7]

I can get 500s tuned to 32lbs but they won't be consistent. There are a number of spines you can tune but there is only only optimal spine that will give you the best efficiency IF you have the best form, so at this point I wouldn't worry tool much over tuning as opposed to form.

In this situation, you could also increase you point weight. or tweak your bow,which is easier. Lower the brace to make the arrow 'act' weaker or raise it to make it 'act' stiffer. It's an easy way to control groupings left to right and a tad up and down. If you have a plunger, set it to slightly left of center, and set spring at medium. Turn spring towards string makes arrow act stiffer, and out make it act weaker. You can do the same with adding padding to riser. BUT the string is the most important right now to move your groups. As you get better and learn to tune better you'll see (experience) what how each adjustment affects others.

The bottom line is to get your groups, forget the bull and have fuuuunnnn!!!!

 

[ranchoarcher]

Point weight! Mine are at 100 but I do have some 125s That's yet another reason to justify a few hours in the yard. Thanks.

 

[centershot]

My nock point is usually about 7/8" above the rest shooting 3 under. In my experience it takes a higher nock point to shoot 3 under.

 

[Jim Casto Jr]

I'd suggest setting the bottom of the nocking point 1/2" above center and start shooting. It won't take long to see the arrow flight and how it's doing. You can always tweak things later. Have fun.

 

[Destroyer]

My nock point is usually about 7/8" above the rest shooting 3 under. In my experience it takes a higher nock point to shoot 3 under.

Yep, that's why tiller is normally lowered from your typical 1/4" to 1/8" or 0" for 3 under.

 

[Jim Casto Jr]

My nock point is usually about 7/8" above the rest shooting 3 under. In my experience it takes a higher nock point to shoot 3 under.

Interesting. Most folks I know, myself included, shoot at 3/8 to 1/2" above center with a tiller of plus 1/4 to minus 1/8.

centershot,

Curious.... if you don't mind. When I see folks with 5/8, 7/8, or more nock set high, I wonder.... why? I'd be interested to know what weight bow you shoot, what arrows (spine and length), point weight, and tiller on your bow.

 

[bradd7]

Must be the designs of the bows Jim. My Elite is recommended to be nock no greater than 3/8 and even tiller for 3 under and 1/4 positive for split.

 

[RedQuill53]

Wow, this is a difficult to answer since your nock point is determined by your release and how much pressure you have on each finger. Bareshaft with no proposing or fletch interference and you're close enough. Everything is relative.

Tuning is a personal experience and varies between the abilities of each archer. There is no magic, just work and time.

Good point bradd7, the only thing I can mention from experience is that when I shoot "three under" I generally hold the fingers on the string about 3/4" low rather than "dead on". This allows for arrow clearance at full draw.

 

[Thin Man]

Just for the equation:

I you are holding about 3/4" under the arrow's nock, you are, in effect, doing a bit of string walking which (if I have this correct) will lower your arrow's impact the lower you go on the string.

I believe most three-under shooters allow their top finger to gently touch the arrow's nock on the string. Often they add a second nock below the primary nock to ensure that the nock won't slip downwards - particularly if not directly touching the nock, as would occur in string walking.

Maybe ...

 

[bradd7]

Just for the equation:

I you are holding about 3/4" under the arrow's nock, you are, in effect, doing a bit of string walking which (if I have this correct) will lower your arrow's impact the lower you go on the string.

I believe most three-under shooters allow their top finger to gently touch the arrow's nock on the string. Often they add a second nock below the primary nock to ensure that the nock won't slip downwards - particularly if not directly touching the nock, as would occur in string walking.

Maybe ...

Thin Man you are correct. It's stringwalking...but there is a little trick for closer ranges (20 yards etc). In some tourneys you have to have your finger on the nock. I shoot 2 under. So it's beneficial to make the bottom nock long and try to get the crawl as close to the nock as possible in case you have to reach up with the index finger. For example, for indoors I am using really heavy arrows and have them tuned to two under with about a 3/4" crawl, point on at 20. My bottom nock is exactly the right length (3/4") crawl so no need to count stitches. I in all honesty the index finger doesn't do much at anchor so it can be moved up if I have to touch the nock, -more likely I will adjust my fingers to move the tab up. This way I can enter any tourney with the same setup.