On the Hoyt GMX3 bow, with the grip lowered from previous models, would one want an even, positive or negative tiller? More positive or more negative when comparing with previous models of bow? Inquiring minds (at least mine) want to hear your thoughts.
russch
On the Hoyt GMX3 bow, with the grip lowered from previous models, would one want an even, positive or negative tiller? More positive or more negative when comparing with previous models of bow? Inquiring minds (at least mine) want to hear your thoughts.
OK Barebow Tiller Setting Experts!
On the Hoyt GMX3 bow, with the grip lowered from previous models, would one want an even, positive or negative tiller? More positive or more negative when comparing with previous models of bow? Inquiring minds (at least mine) want to hear your thoughts.
You are looking for an even draw that is balanced. When I'm in alignment I first adjust the height of my drawing arm elbow to get even pressure across my fingers with more weight on my middle finger. Then I can feel if the bow is drawing evenly by the pressure on my bow hand. I'm looking for it to feel like I have even pressure against my bow hand. If the pressure is high on the grip I need to reduce the tiller.
I currently have -.25" tiller on my bow, and it pulls evenly at my average crawl. Of course, when you use different crawls your bow will not be in perfect tune for each one.
I currently have -.25" tiller on my bow, and it pulls evenly at my average crawl. Of course, when you use different crawls your bow will not be in perfect tune for each one.
When you are into alignment, you are what you are. Don’t move your elbow up or down to get a desired finger pressure or grip pressure. That’ll never be consistent. Just draw into a comfortable alignment. Comfort=consistency. Anyways, that’s just my opinion on that.
The problem with heavy bottom weighted bb’s is that it’s sometimes hard to get rid of the limb flutter from the lack of even mass on the top and bottom of the riser. You might be able to hide it with dampeners or tiller adjustments. You have to be careful with the tiller though, an example is that maybe you settle the limbs down but now you find that the bareshaft hits with the fletched but nock high or low. Tiller adjustment is the only thing that’ll fix that but now you’re back to the limb flutter.
Personally, I like a smooth thump which means the limbs are working together and as good of a tune as I can get. The resulting feeling while I draw the bow is what it is.
The problem with heavy bottom weighted bb’s is that it’s sometimes hard to get rid of the limb flutter from the lack of even mass on the top and bottom of the riser. You might be able to hide it with dampeners or tiller adjustments. You have to be careful with the tiller though, an example is that maybe you settle the limbs down but now you find that the bareshaft hits with the fletched but nock high or low. Tiller adjustment is the only thing that’ll fix that but now you’re back to the limb flutter.
Personally, I like a smooth thump which means the limbs are working together and as good of a tune as I can get. The resulting feeling while I draw the bow is what it is.
I find paying attention to limb flutter and finger pain helps when tuning for single distances (ie. 18m and 50m).
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