i switched from a SBXT to an 82nd. i was getting 285-290 from the SBXT now i get 320 from the 82nd (306fps @ 25yds). real world? broadheads are more complicated at 320, pin gap is noticeably smaller from 30 to 90yds(got rid of my 20 pin), and mostly i'm a KE freak & i like 95ft/lbs alot.

 

I'll have to hunt down the ballistics/trajectory chart I saw posted. Long story short, most people would be amazed at how little the difference is in POI between a barn burner and a moderate speed bow. Plain and simple from what the chart showed it was only like a 2" difference on a shot that was 45 yards but the person shot it for 42. Both shots were still kill shots, one just hit lower.


As elk country mentioned though, the biggest positive to a speed bow is the fact that you can shoot a log of an arrow at 280 fps + and produce an insane amount of KE

 

calculator

i love the guys who say they only drop about 1-2 inches from 20-40 yards

http://www.outdoorsden.com/archery/archbal.asp

 

Why bother!!!

Keep up the good shooting and forget about the hype! Speed kills but what most guys see first hand is that it kills there accuracy more then bulls eyes or deer, stick to the killer set up you have and don't fall for the hype that more speed makes for a better bow!!! Good luck and shoot straight.:thumbs_up

 

Don't worry about the speed. That speed comes at a price, and it's usually shootability. And the KE issue? Phooey. 35# will produce a pass through on a 200+ pound whitetail with a sharp head. Unless, of course, you hit a large bone....but then we come back to the bit about shootability. Shot placement is the key regardless of what you're shooting.

 

Don't worry about the speed. That speed comes at a price, and it's usually shootability. And the KE issue? Phooey. 35# will produce a pass through on a 200+ pound whitetail with a sharp head. Unless, of course, you hit a large bone....but then we come back to the bit about shootability. Shot placement is the key regardless of what you're shooting.

I agree for the most part. My point though was that someone could shoot a 600 grain arrow at a very managable 280 fps (for example) as opposed to having to shoot a 400 grain arrow to get that speed. Not saying you need 100# of KE to kill a deer but if you can get it then why not?


For the record, I'm shooting a 457 grain arrow @ roughly 280 fps so I am not a speed freak :thumbs_up

 

You'll find scant few hunting bows at any speed that shoot as well as the Switchback at any speed.

 

Hmmmmm...so the arrow balistics calculator shows that there is nothing in it...i mean i cant even see a couple of inches difference at 50 meters. And KE is not a problem either....so why do people kill themselves with super hard draws in the quest for an inch or 2 max at normal hunting ranges?
Beats me

 

Hmmmmm...so the arrow balistics calculator shows that there is nothing in it...i mean i cant even see a couple of inches difference at 50 meters.

With my Old Glory setup in my signature, if I turn the limb bolts out one turn.....my arrows impact 4" lower at 60 yards. I have never chrono'd the bow at this setup so I have no idea how much slower it is than with the limbs fully cranked down. The OG is IBO 316fps, so if I was shooting a 350 IBO bow with the same arrows, I would assume that there would be a significant difference at this distance.

 

with a speedbow rated 350fps Vs regular-speed bow , you can shoot 10# less
poundage to achieve same speed .
so the stiff-draw associated with speed-bows is not so stiff and draw become easier .
compare a 70# switchback and a 60# X-force regarding draw and you'll see that the speedbow is easier to draw .

about shootability i agree with you , but most of the time you don't need the
accuracy of a FITA Bow :dontknow:........

 

Not much if you increase draw weight by about 10-15# on the slower bow.

 

Real world difference between a 350 fps and 315fps bow?

35 fps.

shoot the same hunting weight arrow at 10#'s less draw weight...

 

Actually, its 11 percent difference. The same as increasing a bow from 250 to 277 fps.

40 yards is a LONG WAY in the woods, and I'm here to tell you the difference from 260 fps to 310 fps is huge at 40 yards. From 315 to 350 wouldn't be that much different at around 35 yards, but at 50 yards you'd notice the difference for sure.

But, alas, as everyone has already said, it doesn't come free. Actually, you're better off buying a 70 pound "smooth" bow than a 60 pound speed bow, if it peaks near halfway through the draw cycle. If it peaks at the last 3/4ths of the dray cycle, its just as hard to pull and slower too.

 

If you are talking real world differences then what does it matter if the flight path is flatter.A 315 bow and a 350 bow sighted in at 35 yards both hit the same spot at 35 yards what does it matter if one is a little flatter.If you pull the trigger when your pin is one inch higher then when you intended each bow will still hit one inch high just where your pin was when you let go.The only real world difference is if you ranged the animal at 35 but by the time you shot he had moved to 37 and you still shot for 35.So in the real world you would only be seeing the difference between the two on a matter of only a couple yards.So the difference in drop from a 315 versus a 350 over a couple of yards is what the real world difference is and I sure can`t imagine that being anything significant!!!

 

I chose an 82nd airborne for the kinetic energy, due to the variety of game that I will hunt with it. I have plans to hunt plains game in Namibia, so when your tackling an eland/zebra/wildebeest I want all the KE that I can get. Max draw weight, max arrow weight. It was more about flexibility with one bow. Then I can crank her down to 61 or 62 and have an easy to manage,quiet shooter that would blow through any whitetail. Or I can drop to a lightweight shaft and have a 3d rig with max margin of error.
Regardless of what a guy/gal chooses to shoot, there are sacrifices that have to be made, be it speed, noise, shootability. As much as we would all like to claim our bow does it all, with out giving something up, I don't think that there is such a bow.
Lets just be glad that we have a bunch of bows out there that are close to perfect. How much fun would it be if nobody could bash their buddies bow?

 

The difference comes when you don't know the distance. The flatter shooting bow will be more forgiving for those of us that can't always tell what pin we should be using. So if your great at judging distance the flatter shooting bow wiil not help much.

 

exactly, but for me the majority of my shots are 25 to 35 yards, so my one set up @276 vs, my other @324 doesn't make too much of a difference.but the slower bow is a sweet shooter,and i"ll take it hands down over my speedster anyday:teeth:

 

I have a Switchback LD and an Elite hybrid. The Elite shoots a 375gr arrow 335fps and a 465gr arrow 305. I'm not sure how fast the SBLD is shooting, but I figure it to be about 50 fps slower. Both are 31"/70#. With the lighter arrows in the SBLD, the pin gap is just a tad wider, but the heavier arrows are much more noticeable. I'll try to take some pics today.

For the record, I picked up the SBLD for my short range treestand bow. It looks like its gonna be a great choice so far.

 

A few thing that i have noticed though the years are: A hunting bow with a forgiving cam is a little more friendly at full draw, i.e. deep valley that allow you to creep a little as you try to get sighted on a moving target. Try that with a speed bow and your likely to be shot out of your stand. Up here in the late fall and early winter hunting with heavy clothing on, you need a shooter friendly brace height and normally have to back your draw length off by an 1 to 1 1/2 so you can clear you jacket sleaves. Sub 7 inch brace heights aren't jacket freindly

 

Here's a little apples to apples comparison. My Hoyt Katera and Vecrtrix XL are both set up the same - both use 7 pin Truglo Extreme sights. Shooting an IBO weight arrow at 321 fps, the Katera has a gap between the 20 and 80 yard pins of .995". The 20, 30, and 40 yards pins are reallly stacked close together. Could almost get rid of the 20 yard pin.

The Vectrix, at 261 fps with a heavier arrow, has a gap of 1.361" between the 20 and 80 yard pins. In fact, the gap between the 20 and 60 yard pins, on the Vectrix, is .982" - about the same as the Katera at 80 yards.

Granted, there is a 60 fps difference between these bows - or almost twice as much as characterized in the original post. But I'll bet a difference of 35 fps would be the difference between the 70 and 80 yard pin.

 

Used the SB @ 275 as a base line w/410gr ACC360.

20-60 Pin Gap = .741
sight in distance 29
hit window of 6" (+3" to -3" )
max distance 33yds

 

not to argue



i don't mean to argue with you but your graph with this setup shows only about a 3inch drop from 20-30 yards. the calculator shows 7.1inches of drop. where did you get the graph?

 

Used the Monster @ 310 as comparrison (+35fps) w/410gr ACC360.

20-60 Pin Gap = .564
sight in distance 33
hit window of 6" (+3" to -3" )
max distance 38yds

 

With a 60yd sight in distance..

Monster @ 310 would be +15" high at 32yds.
SB @ 275 would be +20" high at 31yds.

 

the difference is WARP SPEED or no warp speed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Speed Hype

Just thought this was preety cool! A lady that I know at my school has killed 4 elk with a 38# DW shooting a 400 grn arrow. I think speed is cool, but shot placement, KE, and shootability are more important in my opinion. Shoot'em straight!!!

 

Maybe it is all about what make you confident and what you can pull smoothly, and quiet so the deer does not jump the string. The speed of sound is many times faster than the newest monster speed bow.

Question does the animal know how fast the arrow passes thru ? 10 fps or 500fps who cares if the animals does not. If it feel good and you can hit what you aim at then shoot it and often.. Have fun.

 

face it

face the facts.speed is great all else being equal, the faster the better by far. looking at those graphs, although i don't put 100% faith in them, the diference in drop from 20 to yards is far less than what my arrow drops with my "slow" Switchback XT. i believe my arrow drops between 6-8 inches between 20 and 30. that really makes yardage estimation much easier and "forgivable". that is the greadest advantage of speed. followed bythe gain in kinetic energy and then less flight time for the animal to react. Speed is great. the question is at what expense. but i want the fastest bow i can shoot accurately. if i achieve the same in accuracy with two bows i will take the fastest one no matter what. i believe go as fast as you can until accuracy suffers.

 

face the facts.speed is great all else being equal, the faster the better by far. looking at those graphs, although i don't put 100% faith in them, the diference in drop from 20 to yards is far less than what my arrow drops with my "slow" Switchback XT. i believe my arrow drops between 6-8 inches between 20 and 30. that really makes yardage estimation much easier and "forgivable". that is the greadest advantage of speed. followed bythe gain in kinetic energy and then less flight time for the animal to react. Speed is great. the question is at what expense. but i want the fastest bow i can shoot accurately. if i achieve the same in accuracy with two bows i will take the fastest one no matter what. i believe go as fast as you can until accuracy suffers.

good way to put it,take the faster of the two as long as you can shoot them both accurately.i would, makes sense:thumbs_up

 

Calculate THIS!!! Sighted in at 30 yards, 1-1/2 high at 20yards, 1-1/2 low at 40! 2nd pin 50yds dead on, 2 inches at 60 3rd pin is 70-80, pins are 13/32nds apart from top to bottom pin. I bought a fast bow and saved myself 300 bucks by not needing a rangefinder. Never had ANY trouble judging distance before, just removed all doubt by getting this bow, and I am only shooting 330fps. I had a guy on another forum flat out call me on my setup because the (MATH) didn't work. Sometimes it does, sometimes even the geniuses get stumped. I shot 270 before and top to 4th pin was about an inch, that was a five pin, 20-30-40-50-60, never even thought about actually shooting at 60, now I shoot 3 inch groups at 70, maybe not all day long, but I have done it, I just get scared shooting at my little 20x24 block that far out, kinda like shooting an ant at 10 yards

 

Two things.

First off keep in mind that while the trajectory calculators are going to show a flatter shot, they do not show what you are sighted in for. Keep in mind you have to conside that you are sighted in for whatever speed you are shooting. In the end if you misjudge your target by a yard or two, and you have a faster bow, it helps by .5-1 inch depending on speed difference and range. It is not that much of a help, once you account for the fact you are sighted in different.

The real advantage is this:

Have the new speed bow setup to shoot your arrow at the same speed as your current bow. So have the 350 IBO turned down until the speed matches. Then ask yourself, which is easier to shoot, and which one am I more accurate with. Which one can I pull back the easiest when I am cold and have been sitting awhile?

This is the real world comparison that you need to do. You will find that the DW needs to be decreased about 15 pounds before the speeds match up. Most will find that 15 pounds makes the speed bow not seem so stiff afterall.

E