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removing stripped allen head screw

25K views 28 replies 27 participants last post by  icefishur96  
#1 ·
i am trying to take the quick release for my quiver off my sight to mount a different one and one of the heads is stripped out. i would use a female easy out but the head is counter sunk and i dont have a male easy out that is the right size
 
#2 ·
file the nest size up key to a taper so it can be tapped into the grub. if possible chill the whole assembly (canned air is good) the quickly heat the mount so it expands a little. tap the key in and twist. once you crack the thread it should come out easily enough.
 
#8 ·
:thumbs_up
 
#6 ·
take an old allen key that fits and super glue it in let it setup and then try to brake it loose..May work or may not.
 
#9 ·
I've taken a ballpene hammer and put the ball part on damaged allen head and using another hammer start tapping while turning ball (trying to mushroom material back down and in) then make sure your allen wrench is not rounded at end (if so reface it) tap allen wrench in and give it a sharp twist. This a one shot deal, sometimes it works somtimes not. If you have torx bits that should work also. Good Luck
 
#10 ·
I took and got a small drimmel tool with a cutting disc on it then took and cut I it in the middle so it would accept a flat head then break it loose go to hardware store and get you a new screw
 
#12 ·
this may be the way to go. just make sure the bit is slightly smaller, it should come out after a little drilling.
 
#13 ·
You can also put an nominal sized allen wrench and stake the screw to the wrench with a awl or center punch. Be sure to stake all sides. If the screw is soft enough to strip, its soft enough to stake and the impact on the screw could also break it loose.
 
#15 ·
You can use a small punch with a sharp point and a hammer on a countersink screw. Place the point of the punch on the top of the screw in the direction to loosing. Use the hammer and gently tap the punch. The point of the punch should bite into the top of the screw and the screw should loosing. That is if there is no lock tight on threads of screw.
 
#16 ·
Drill the head off!! Use a bit slightly larger than the bolt diameter and drill away using the hex hole to center it, The head will come off and then you can remove the item that it is holding on and it will release the tension on the bolt. You might even be able to screw out what is left by hand
 
#17 ·
You can use an ease out but first try using a star shaped bit (like a hex but more facets) after drilling a shallow hole with a drill. If you push in tightly, it usually will catch enough to get it out. If that fails, take it to a machine shop. I ruined a sight trying to use an ease out. A shop will do it right for about $10.
 
#18 ·
When using the star shaped bit, be aware that cheap bits WILL BREAK OFF, so once you pound and pound and finally get your star bit in there and start to turn it, it will break! so do your self a favor and buy a decent set of bits first!
 
#19 ·
if you are not in a hurry ,and don't want to chance damage, or the item you are working on is to delicate or expensive, just use JB weld on the closest allen wrench you have. let it set up and it will come loose.
 
#21 ·
X2 on this one. I have done it several times. Just have to let the JB weld set up good. I usually wait at least 24 hours before I try to break it loose. I also clean the surfaces of the allen wrench and the screw with a dremel tool with a small wire brush.
 
#24 ·
you can also use a small hammer and center-punch. tap the punch in on the outside edge of the bolt head first. tilt the punch so its
pointed in counter clockwise direction and try to tap it loose. i work in a machine shop and do this all the time on tooling with
number 8 & 10 screws.
 
#25 ·
Use a 1/8 drill and drill the head off. Even if its a #8 screw the drill is smaller so you shouldn't mess up the threads if you go to far. Plus the screwed up allen hole will work as a guide for the drill.

Next time just a dab of anti-seize will be a life saver on parts like this. Especially tapped aluminum and stainless hardware.
 
#26 ·
The problem is that you are dealing with a flat head cap screw a soft material (like aluminum vs steel). When you tighten them down, the screw compresses the aluminum, and once it does, it's really in there. On top of that, if you're dealing with Aluminum, the dissimilar metals will cause some corrosion which is just about as good as loc-tite at keeping that bolt from ever coming loose.

If the threads have loc-tite on them, then you need to use some heat. Heat will break the loc-tite down.

If there's no loc-tite involved, I would start off with a good torx bit and some JB weld. Let the JB weld set up and cure for for over 24 hrs, then give it a try. If that doesn't work, you can try a hammer and center punch as mentioned above. If that fails, take a cobalt drill bit and drill the head off the bolt. Once the head has been removed, the tension will be released from the threads, and you should be able to carefully remove the remainder of the bolt. You may be able to spin the remainder of the bolt out with a hammer and center punch. If not, then I would try using a cut off wheel in a dremel tool to put a slot in the bolt, and then a small screwdriver to spin it out.

Just my 2 bits,
Mark
 
#28 ·
i ended up going the route of JB welding in a torx bit and it worked great, couldnt have cut/ground it off without ruining anything or that would have been my first method of attack
 
#29 ·
Go to Ace Hardware and buy a set of Grabits.....this will solve your issue now and forever more! Cost about 20 bucks and worth every penny. I use them all the time at work for stripped screws. In my opinion, these are the best investment a person can make for these type of situations. I have removed hundreds of stripped screws with mine and has never failed me.