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iswandy

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok, I received my first Samick SKB bow ordered from Lancaster archery on Sept 9, 2014,

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Practice my thumb ring shooting and draw at 30" using Easton Poweflight 400 and Gamegetter xx75 400 with 100g point. I did my shooting practice 1-2 hours daily after work and most of my free time during Saturday and Sunday at 20 yards distance in my backyard. Unfortunately on Nov 10th, 2014 this bow lower limb broken during practice. That is after owning it only for 62 days.

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So, I contacted Lancaster archery and they offer me warranty either to get replacement bow or to refund back all my money. I'm deciding to accept replacement bow because I assuming it's broken maybe because of manufacturer defect and it's happened on 1 of every 100 bows the produced. So, on Nov 19th, 2014 I received another Samick SKB 60# from Lancaster as Warranty.

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So I practice as usual on daily basis every after work or whenever i'm free on Saturday or Sunday. Unfortunately, on Dec 6th, 2014 this replacement bow also broken during practice, right at grip area and that is just after 17 days owning it!

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and now, I have 2 useless Samick SKB 60# bow in my hands :(

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What I can conclude after experiencing 2 bow broken is:
- Buying 60lbs Samick SKB and draw it at 30" length mean asking for new bow.
- Its not kind of bow we can trust for hunting trip. It might broke during aiming at 10 point buck and that definitely make us cursing our-self for years.
- Not worth to spend our money buying one. Because it will definitely ending with same story as above.
- for 30lbs and below, maybe this bow will last longer, 1 year? 5 years? 10 years? I don't know

I also have question for you guys:

1. What bow did you shoot and how long have you shoot with it?
2. what poundage and draw length?

2 questions above is the key for my next traditional bow..
 
I'm trying to envision a $169, 60# horse bow, only 50"s long, being drawn to 30"s...and I can't....I think your 30" Draw Length would be far better served with a longbow and if you wish to shoot thumb rings?....Bearpaw makes the "Twin Bow" dual shelf longbow (that can be shot off either side) for a very reasonable price and LAS carries those as well.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Not sure mate, but SKB is Traditional Korean bow and if you see how they shooting, most is behind their ear and average of 32" draw length. I just try to learn their shooting style. Yes I do use thumb ring since beginning. My actual draw length with compound bow is 27", but since I bought this Samick SKB, I also want to learn their shooting technique and go for 30" DL. What I like about it: I don't need to cut my arrow shaft :)
 
Have always thought it was a lousy design prone to breakage and overly difficult to shoot. I have seen other horse bows break in the same place yours did. Too much stress on those short overly curved limbs. Others will disagree but you rarely see this type of bow used for a reason.
 
Most horse bows were originally in the 30# range. I've heard of these problems with the higher weight bows. The lighter weight was because of shooting sitting on a horse which doesn't lend its self to heavy bows. Seems like it's not a heavy bow design.
 
Where was it actually made? Samick is Korean and their domestically produced bows are generally pretty good. However, some of their line is produced in China and my experience with Chinese made bows has been 100% bad. The two I had broke inside a very short time. One, the riser snapped in half and the replacement started developing cracks in the riser and I stopped using it before I got the big surprise at full draw. I've got a 45lb samick devastator that's held up quite well and a samick Athlete and a few sets of the better samick limbs between 30 and 42 lbs that are quite good. I'd avoid anything with a made in china sticker, especially when the draw weight is kind of heavy.. You might want to consider Hoyt or tradtech. I've got a 45lb dorado, 40lb tiburon, and 50lb buffalo. The Titan III is also excellent. For hunting, the dorado or devastator are my first picks.
 
Maybe the new athlete line is but what I have didn't have the made in china stickers on it. The sage is now along with some others. I've shot SF limbs made there and they don't hold a candle to Hoyt. Beside, for the extra few bucks you might avoid this.
 

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rancher, that is exciting looking. I've never owned a wooden riser bow. I started on a 25" alloy Olympic years ago.

Looks like the break started along the Bubinga grain and it took off from there. I'm guessing at the wood type. Does not look like glue failure. Not that is helps you. I can understand a bad experience coloring your view. I hate getting screwed twice.
 
rancher, that is exciting looking. I've never owned a wooden riser bow. I started on a 25" alloy Olympic years ago.

Looks like the break started along the Bubinga grain and it took off from there. I'm guessing at the wood type. Does not look like glue failure. Not that is helps you. I can understand a bad experience coloring your view. I hate getting screwed twice.

The funny thing about it is by outward appearance the bow looked nice while it was still together. Once it broke it was discovered the outside is nothing more than a veneer of some kind. The actual wood of the bow was pretty low grade. Damn thing nearly took my eye with it. In the end as with most things you get what you pay for. I think it was supposed to be a knock of a bear for about half the price. Since then I've stuck with bows that make you cringe a little bit over the price. Have a few other non-china made one piece wood riser bows and so far so good.
 
I know this is a "bit" too late, but I think your arrows were too light. When you shoot thumb draw, total arrow weight is the most important factor. If arrow weight gets too low, you'll end up almost dry firing the bow. A #40 bow requires around 9-10 gpp, which the arrows you used would've been perfect for. A #60 bow should have around 12 gpp, or even more, not really sure. Definitely more than your 9 gpp. I'd say 62 days of slight dry fire is pretty good for a $170 bow.
 
I know this is a "bit" too late, but I think your arrows were too light. When you shoot thumb draw, total arrow weight is the most important factor. If arrow weight gets too low, you'll end up almost dry firing the bow. A #40 bow requires around 9-10 gpp, which the arrows you used would've been perfect for. A #60 bow should have around 12 gpp, or even more, not really sure. Definitely more than your 9 gpp. I'd say 62 days of slight dry fire is pretty good for a $170 bow.
Im thinking of trying thumb and was looking at this samick. Why would a 540 grain arrow be any lighter for thumb draw than three finger? Ive shot 1000's just under 500 grain arrows out of my 60# sage and no issues
 
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