[hooktonboy]

Picture herewith (hopefully)

 

[ThomVis]

Not sure if this is helpful (if this is the v bar you're having issues with), but check post #9 here
http://www.archeryinterchange.com/f11/v-bar-stabilisers-8316/

There may be a part from the manufacturer that will fix this for you.
Could you post a picture of the setup?

I found that thread as well, problem is, Arten went out of business. They made replacement parts for a lot of things, but 5/16 never shows up in combination with 1/4.

The black bolt should be further into the aluminum rod, but it'll probably needs re-heating for the yellow stuff in there to allow that to happen.

There's an older Cartel (top-type) damper that might do the job. It's 5/16" male, then 1/4" female where the rubber damper goes. Aluminium tube, 4" long I think. At the 1/4" end there is a very small raised lip around the circumference of the tube (imagine it as a small recess for the rubber damper bit). Think I have a couple in a box somewhere. Let me know if of use to you - no cost. I don't need 'em. Pic to follow...

Sounds perfect, the 1mm lip I see as a bonus. I'll PM you.

 

[dchan]

What diameter is that sleeve around the 1/4-20 bolt and how long is that sleeve?

DC

 

[DK Lieu]

There's an older Cartel (top-type) damper that might do the job. It's 5/16" male, then 1/4" female where the rubber damper goes. Aluminium tube, 4" long I think. At the 1/4" end there is a very small raised lip around the circumference of the tube (imagine it as a small recess for the rubber damper bit). Think I have a couple in a box somewhere. Let me know if of use to you - no cost. I don't need 'em. Pic to follow...

Not a good solution. This Cartel part is on my "do not buy" list. The 5/16" male thread is made of aluminum, which should be avoided in threaded parts whenever possible and especially if the parts need to be assembled and disassembled frequently. Aluminum threads tend to gall and jam easily, if not kept clean and lubricated. We had a Team member with one of these top stabilizers jammed halfway in her riser. I had to take it to a machine shop to cut it off and drill it out.

 

[ThomVis]

what diameter is that sleeve around the 1/4-20 bolt and how long is that sleeve?

d=5/16", l=1/2"

 

[dchan]

Not sure how "handy" you are and if you have access to some tools.

What I was thinking..

a 5/16-24 bolt with a section that is not threaded.

I think this is a stock image and may be a 5/16-18 bolt but the idea is the same.

Cut it off, (both ends) head at 1/2", thread end at a length that won't bottom out. Then drill and tap the end without the threads with a 1/4-20 hole. Insert a 1/4-20 bolt and cut it off at the length you need to put into your stabilizer.

Sounds like a lot of work but if you are dead set on using that stabilizer system, this may be the shortest path to your solution.

 

[Warbow]

Not a good solution. This Cartel part is on my "do not buy" list. The 5/16" male thread is made of aluminum, which should be avoided in threaded parts whenever possible and especially if the parts need to be assembled and disassembled frequently. Aluminum threads tend to gall and jam easily, if not kept clean and lubricated. We had a Team member with one of these top stabilizers jammed halfway in her riser. I had to take it to a machine shop to cut it off and drill it out.

What should one lubricate aluminum threads with if we have something that has them?

 

[Zbone]

Thanx for sharing.

 

[ThomVis]

Not sure how "handy" you are and if you have access to some tools.

What I was thinking..

a 5/16-24 bolt with a section that is not threaded. I think this is a stock image and may be a 5/16-18 bolt but the idea is the same.

Cut it off, (both ends) head at 1/2", thread end at a length that won't bottom out. Then drill and tap the end without the threads with a 1/4-20 hole. Insert a 1/4-20 bolt and cut it off at the length you need to put into your stabilizer.

Sounds like a lot of work but if you are dead set on using that stabilizer system, this may be the shortest path to your solution.

It's called a shoulder bolt. If it were metric sizes, I would be grinding and cutting already, I have the bolts, nuts and cutters for both on standby. Buying the thread cutters in inch sizes would probably cost more then the stabilizer itself, and won't see much use. I do appreciate the thought you've put into it.
What I'm looking for now is what's called a standoff nut with 1/4"-20 female threads, outside diameter about 3/4" and about an inch long. I can screw the stabilizer in one end and the Doinker Adapter Screw in the other. Now to only find a webshop that sells them internationally (McMaster probably has them, but they don't like foreign visitors).

What should one lubricate aluminum threads with if we have something that has them?

Silicone spray or even better, copper paste. Needs cleaning and re-applying regularly.

 

[Stash]

All you need to do is drill and tap half of the knurled piece (your last pic) into 5/16-24 and replace the 1/4-20 stud with a 5/16-24 stud of the right length. The 5/16-24 tap takes a letter "I" drill, which is about 6.9mm so a 7mm drill should work well enough.

If you can't find a 5/16-24 tap or the long stud, let me know and I can arrange to send you what you need.

But better would be to remove the 1/4-20 stud from the stabilizer and drill and re-tap with 5/16-24 or replace it with the 1/4-5/16 screw you linked in your first post, then buy a regular 5/16-24 V-bar bolt.

 

[dchan]

It's called a shoulder bolt.

Over here generally a shoulder bolt would have a shoulder larger than the actual diameter. (so it doesn't go in all the way) The bolts I'm thinking of are just 5/16 - 24.

A tap is pretty cheap.

Have you tried ebay?

Found this in UK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ex-RAF-Stor...-Hex-Head-MS90726-47-n3-/130650125259?pt=UK_CPV_Aviation_SM&hash=item1e6b5ab3cb

and you can check China locations for taps.

Are you real hot to get it soon?

DC

 

[DK Lieu]

What should one lubricate aluminum threads with if we have something that has them?

Use a dry lube, such as Teflon in a solvent spray carrier, or a surfactant such as soapy water or Armor-All (flick off excess). Air-dry the parts (leaving the lubricant behind) before mating. Not a good idea to use a wet lube such as oil or grease, unless it is wiped off nearly completely, because a thick layer of oil or grease will attract and retain grit. Petroleum based oils also attack many plastics. I use a silicone based oil on some parts, but wipe of nearly all of it to leave a very thin, nearly dry layer. Worst combination is completely dry, un-lubricated threads in which a bit of grit is caught. Once the aluminum starts to gall, you'll have a difficult time getting the parts separated.

 

[ThomVis]

Over here generally a shoulder bolt would have a shoulder larger than the actual diameter. (so it doesn't go in all the way)

We call them chest-bolt (Dutch: borstbout) over here, but couldn't find an English translation for it. Did a quick google search with pictures and found a shoulder bolt like the one you showed, and thought bingo. Now I've read the wikipedia page and the correct name would be partially threaded?

I use a silicone based oil on some parts, but wipe of nearly all of it to leave a very thin, nearly dry layer.

We use copper-paste on dissimilar metals or when the nut/bolt combination isn't separated a lot, but should remain operable in the future (not seized together). I've done like you did with the silicone based oil, I've just used copper-paste. Or is that a bad idea?

Back on topic, no real progress, but I'm in PM conversation with dchan and hooktonboy and mailed a webshop after a tip. Progress will be reported.

 

[dchan]

Watch your mail! Package is on its way.

DC

 

[ThomVis]

Watch your mail! Package is on its way.

DC

Package came in with the 3 bolts on the right.

Didn't get the new bolt in all the way, so I need a bench vice. For that I need to fix the lights in the "workshop" and for that I need .... Doh!
I hope I'll get round to all that and be able to mount the stabilizer before I go shooting today.

David, thank you so very much. This is definitely going to work.

 

[dchan]

Package came in with the 3 bolts on the right.

Didn't get the new bolt in all the way, so I need a bench vice. For that I need to fix the lights in the "workshop" and for that I need .... Doh!
I hope I'll get round to all that and be able to mount the stabilizer before I go shooting today.

David, thank you so very much. This is definitely going to work.

So for those of you trying to figure out that picture.

The knurled piece and the double threaded piece are the original 1/4"-20 devices.

All from grade 5 5/16"-24 bolts I had lying around left to right are
a 1/4" 20 to 5/16"-24 Male to male adapter
a second 1/4 5/16 adapter (male to male) with a longer studfor the 1/4" end. Did this in case Thom found that the first one was too short. Thom mentioned he has grinders and cutting tools.
The third is a 1/4-20 female to 5/16"-24 male with a 1/4"-20 bolt in it. Again just in case he needed another configuration depending on how he configured the other items. I figure he can cut off the head of the bolt if he needs a short threaded rod.

Since the shipping price was the same regardless of how many of these I packed (up to 4 lbs) I figured it would be cheaper to send a few items rather than try to build one and see if it worked.

Took about 15-20 minutes in the machine shop to fabricate the 3 bolts.. It probably took us longer to find the right dies and taps (Some were buried and a few broken taps were found, since we don't use them much) Now I know where all those tools are again.

Hope they work out.

 

[ThomVis]

Here some pictures is the setup from Saturday:

"Stole" the dampers from my old setup and went shooting. Started with the back-rods in the same configuration as I had on my old setup. I couldn't feel much difference between my old setup and this one, but that could be just me. Later adjusted the rods a bit more "out", so I can now set my arm without my leg bumping the rod, and unscrewing it in the process. I'm a happy shooter.
Now I need to find my heatgun and remove those dodgy stickers.

Thanks for al the input, and dchan for machining me the parts.