[nuts&bolts]

I like the confidence on here, no nock set needed ever. Just cause problems....okay

WRONG. Completely inaccurate. Tied nock points are adjustable. Just spin the tied nock set
to micro tune the d-loop up or down. If you tie the TIED nock set too tight, then, the tied nock set will NOT adjust up or down. Tied nock sets allow you to repeat the EXACT same d-loop location, if your old d-loop is worn out.






That d-loop is STUPID short. No, not really.





MELT the fibers, don't burn the fibers. If you BURN thermoplastics (d-loop material), you make the fibers brittle.
So, why BURN thermoplastic fibers, when it's sooo easy to MELT the fibers?

BUT that d-loop is still STUPID short? That will just NEVER work.

Wait for it. There is another step.



THIS is how you TIGHTEN d-loop knots. Use needlenose pliers.



Insert the nose of the needlenose pliers inside the STUPID short d-loop.
Now, pull apart the handles.



BEFORE stretching the NEWLY tied d-loop.



AFTER stretching the NEWLY tied d-loop, with TIED nock points...which are adjustable.



Short tied nock point is at top of d-loop.
Wider tied nock point is at the bottom of d-loop.

 

[nuts&bolts]

"The problem with the nock sets is they don't buy you anything. " Yes they do. They serve as permanent nocking point. D-loops fail, mostly due to burrs on the jaws or hooks of releases. There is no saving a d-loop once the covering is nicked. Nocking point established one can tie a new d-loop and be dead on.

"Nock pinch is caused by the string maker using a poor quality center serving - this causes the d-loop knots to separate the serving underneath which causes the works to come loose." Years ago, 20 years or so, factories and string makers had some poor strings. Today, rare is it to have a bad center serving.

"You see it all the time on the line, where guys try to fix it by tying more and more serving on between and outside the d-loop knots. That puts it off for a little bit, but it's not a fix." Nowhere have I heard or seen of this.

With the additional knocking points, you have to screw those up and down too, which causes them to come loose, and.... well.... Again, I haven't seen this.

Sonny. No point arguing with folks who don't get it.
So, if the fella who complains about nock sets...sez a nock set is of ZERO value. Cannot make a horse drink water.
U get it.

D-loops break. DUH. How much MORE simple can this get?
The tied nock sets do not MOVE...if you tie them correctly, and your new d-loop will be in EXACTLY the same place as the recently BUSTED d-loop. If you tie the NEW d-loop higher or lower, than the prior busted d-loop, gotta tune all over again. So, DUH...tied nock sets help you locate a replacement d-loop in EXACTLY the same position.

 

[nuts&bolts]

"Nock pinch is caused by the string maker using a poor quality center serving - this causes the d-loop knots to separate the serving underneath which causes the works to come loose." Years ago, 20 years or so, factories and string makers had some poor strings. Today, rare is it to have a bad center serving.

D-loop don't need no tied nock sets"..."D-loop with no nock sets, don't cause no NOCK PINCH"...paraphrasing here.
Loose d-loop knots ABSOLUTELY cause nock pinch. SUPER DUH.
So, if a newbie tuner is afraid to really STRETCH a d-loop, and has loose d-loop knots,
by having TIED nock sets (PROPERLY installed tied nock sets) then, we have ZERO possibility of NOCK PINCH.
AGain. one more time. SUPER DUH.

"Well, nock pinch is cuz of bad center serving, and a poor construction custom bowstring". paraphrasing here.
Simple fix. Purchase a QUALITY custom bowstring. Bam. Taken care of.
Install tied nock sets, PROPERLY. Bam. Loose d-loop knots can no longer slip closer together, and No Nock Pinch.
Bam. Taken care of.

 

[nuts&bolts]

"You see it all the time on the line, where guys try to fix it by tying more and more serving on between and outside the d-loop knots. That puts it off for a little bit, but it's not a fix." Nowhere have I heard or seen of this.

With the additional knocking points, you have to screw those up and down too, which causes them to come loose, and.... well.... Again, I haven't seen this.

"sky is falling...see it ALL the time"....paraphrasing here.
"all kinds of people are tying serving above and below and inside and outside the d-loop"....paraphrasing here.
"it will NEVER Work"...paraphrasing here.

If a fella cannot shoot a recurve, when this fella has spent decades shooting a recurve, not to his satisfaction,
do you goto this guy for RECURVE advice?

If a fella says that tied nock sets don't do nuthin, and that folks are tying tied nock sets outside the d-loop and inside the d-loop for a total of four tied nock sets...and this is why TIED nock sets don't work....but, 99% of us have not seen four tied nock sets on a d-loop...do ya goto this guy for advice on TIED nock sets and d-loop?

U know
and I know that if you tie a tied nock set and yank REALLY HARD on the tag ends,
you can make a tied nock set that will NOT move, and will NOT rotate, if you want a completely NON-adjustable tied nock set.



If you use a LONG enough length of serving thread, and grab on BOTH ends of the really LONG tag ends
and pull EACH wrap of the tied nock point (nock set) with all you've got, that wrap for that tied nock set will create a tied nock set that is NON-adjustable, will NOT turn without pliers, and will NEVER EVER budge.





The tied nock sets locate your arrow nock PRECISELY and RE-PEATABLY. THIS is what you want for shooting a compound bow. Precision.



Just TWO tied nock sets. Narrow tied nock set at the top of the d-loop, on the INSIDE.
Wider tied nock set at the bottom of the d-loop, on the INSIDE.

Done.

 

[nuts&bolts]

For folks who shoot a BLADE rest.
GRIV Torqueless loop works GREAT. Yes, gotta use tied nock sets, when shooting a Torqueless Loop.

BUT, what's with the HUGE, the MASSIVE gap above the nock, when you put the TORQUELESS Loop below the arrow nock?

That will NEVER EVER work.
Wrong.

The TORQUELESS loop is designed to be installed BELOW the arrow nock.
I have a 40-inch ATA bow, the OK Archery DST 40.
When you use a Torqueless Loop, specially since the loop is installed BELOW the arrow nock,
at full draw, with a 40-inch ATA bow, the string angles FORWARDS. That's why I have the Beiter Asymmetric nocks, cuz the string is Angled FORWARDS thru the nock.

Had Easton X10 pin nocks, with the super short ears.
FIRST time you use a TORQUELESS loop, and pin nocks with SHORT ears,
the NOCK PINCH will push the ears off the string, and the nock LOOKS attached to the string.

BAM. Dry fire.

So, the bow survived, and switched to Beiter Asymmetric nocks. The angled forwards nock groove hangs onto the string, even with a TORQUELESS Loop.

BUT, why the MASSIVE gap for the upper tied nock.
Did I mention that the string angles FORWARDS severely, with a torqueless loop?
AT full draw, while checking on a draw board,
the gap between top of nock and the Underside of the UPPER tied nock
drops down to less than 1mm, less than 1/64th inch, on a 40-inch ATA bow.

Looks like this, on a blade rest bow.



When you tune the GRIV Torqueless Loop to the correct length for YOU
(too long torqueless loop, you miss right of the x-ring, RH shooter)
(too short torqueless loop, you miss LEFT of the x-ring, RH shooter).

dial in the torqueless loop to the PERFECT length for YOU, you nail the x-ring like this
at 20 yards.



Unfortunately with the Torqueless Loop,
gotta cut off the torqueless loop, and make a complete new torqueless loop.
Only took me 4 attempts to dial in the length of the torqueless loop.