It doesn't really work that way. Draw length is about the geometry of your body. Your proper draw length will not be affected by the type of release you use. Draw length is all about the distance from your bow hand to the center of your body/face. A your release hand/arm is all about your anchor point. The angle that your release hand elbow has at full draw will have a huge impact in your stability when anchoring and aiming.

I think that it is easier to get a consistent anchor point with a hand held release.

My advice is to work with an archery coach if you have one nearby. They can help you get a draw length that is perfect for you. They can also help you with form, technique, follow through etc.

My second advice is don't get too worried about KE, speed, etc. Focus on becoming the best archer you can be. Then worry about all the other stuff later. KE and momentum mean nothing if you cannot reliably put the arrow where it needs to be. Right now is an exceptional time to be a new archer. We have the best equipment and the best community to learn from than at any point in human history.

 

The speed comes from the power stroke of the string so any adjusting DL without increasing/decreasing the actual draw length of the bow string, ie longer d loop or release length, won't change arrow speed/energy.

 

People are confusing “your draw length” with the “bow’s draw length”.

“Your draw length” is actually very vague when it comes to compound-release shooting. With fingers and a recurve/longbow, it’s pretty straightforward. Just measure according to AMO standards, and it shouldn’t change from bow to bow.

However, when it comes to compound/release, while “your draw length” should stay the same, the draw length the bow is set at, and therefore its stored energy, kinetic energy and arrow speed can vary depending on your release design and D loop length.

Yes, going to a shorter D-loop and a release with a shorter head will require you to set the bow’s draw length a bit longer, thus increasing its power. Again, that’s assuming you don’t make a change in your form.

I don’t think people shooting compound/release should say “my draw is XX inches”. It would save a lot of confusion if instead they say “my bow’s draw length is XX inches”.

 

People are confusing “your draw length” with the “bow’s draw length”.

“Your draw length” is actually very vague when it comes to compound-release shooting. With fingers and a recurve/longbow, it’s pretty straightforward. Just measure according to AMO standards, and it shouldn’t change from bow to bow.

However, when it comes to compound/release, while “your draw length” should stay the same, the draw length the bow is set at, and therefore its stored energy, kinetic energy and arrow speed can vary depending on your release design and D loop length.

Yes, going to a shorter D-loop and a release with a shorter head will require you to set the bow’s draw length a bit longer, thus increasing its power. Again, that’s assuming you don’t make a change in your form.

I don’t think people shooting compound/release should say “my draw is XX inches”. It would save a lot of confusion if instead they say “my bow’s draw length in XX inches”.

I love this reply and this is exactly what I was looking for. That was my thought process I just communicated it poorly. Your form and "your draw length" stay the same but because of a shorter release and d-loop you can extend the "bow draw length" and generate more power/speed.

 

Take a look at a Carter Rx1 or a Scott S2

 

you can fudge your DL some, but at the possible expense of consistency, repeatability, comfort, ergonomics, fitment, potential range, clearence, torquing.. Why miss Fast?....

 

You are mistaking draw length with anchor point. Draw length with be in the same spot, the corner of your mouth. You then manipulate d-loop length to achieve where you anchor your hand on your face. No difference in draw length, therefore no effect on the things you mentioned.

 

Your DL doesn't change with the release you shoot... Your anchor might change and you might think you need to add/remove length to get a consistent anchor... but the correct way to adjust for it is to lengthen/shorten your loop...

 

Agreed.

 

Yes, using a release with a shorter head (and shortening your loop) will allow you to draw the bow back further and maintain your current anchor. Keep in mind however that where the string lays on your face is going to be necessarily further back, and if you have a fat face (or a beard, or a long nose) this could create some contact issues with your string, arrow or fletching.

Truball makes a few releases where the hook is virtually in line with the trigger. I'd suggest trying one first though to make sure you're happy with where the string lines up and that it's not affecting anything with your shot.

 

I do not let a release or speed craving determine my anchor point. It is set. If your form is set, then you have less freedom here.

I draw the bow and anchor as I normally would. I then find the combination of draw length, d-loop length, and release length (all my index releases are adjustable) that will allow me to attain good form (bow arm straight but slightly unlocked, proper shoulder position, proper head position, nose on string, hand at my anchor).

Anything else, in my opinion, is the tail waging the dog.

 

In my opinion the neck lengths are so close we are talking 1/8-1/4in gain? Maybe?

I think if you were trying to chase speed it would be easier and more efficient to get a bow with fast aggressive cams and/or increase the draw weight you are holding.

Thats is what I did when I had my Carbon Spyder Turbo.... Nowadays I chase accuracy and shootability more than raw speed and KE.

 

Why in the world would you want to change your anchor point around though? I mean if it's a poor anchor and non-repeatable then sure.......but if you have a GOOD anchor point the last thing you wanna' do is move that around to get speed. Or change your d-loop, release aid etc to shoot a longer DL on the bow and try to adjust where you anchor to compensate.

I KEEP my anchor point, grip and everything the same and then adjust the bow's DL slightly to fit that distance. I don't use a peep so it took me a while to get a rock-solid anchor point so I'm not messing with that ever to try and grab a few extra FPS. I guess if you have your knuckle in your earlobe and then move it to the back of your neck then in theory you could shoot a longer DL but why?

 

PS for example.....I shoot off the string because it works fine and it's just so simple. I have my knuckle in my earlobe, string to my nose and kisser in the corner of my mouth. "If" I added a d-loop to my bow then there is no way I could have the same anchor points and the same DL setting on the bow because you are adding in the distance of the loop. You cannot add length in (be it DL settings on the bow or a d-loop etc) and keep the same end parameters.