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Tree stand bow rope

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#23 ·
wango tango said:
This. The only difference is when I pull the bow up I put it in the top cam and when I’m letting the bow down, I put it in the bottom cam That way, the quiver will go through brush or a tree limbs easier without getting caught on an arrow.

Don’t overthink it. Paracord and a loop is all you need. Cheap, quiet, fast and easy.
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Yeah. That's a good way too, if pulling through any potential obstacles.
 
#24 ·
Paracord. Seems to hold up to the weather and sun well. Also cheap, especially when bought in bulk.

Bowline loop at the bottom. Run it through the cam and around the stabilizer. That way it goes up straight up. Carabiners are unnecessary. They eventually weather to the point of being unusable they clang and there's just no reason for them. Tying a loop in the end of a rope is trivial and honestly works better. If you can't tie a bowline...you should rethink your life choices tbh.

While filming a few buddies that insist on using carabiners...they take so much time trying to be careful and not make any noise with the biner it takes longer than just using a loop... Just run the rope through hook it on the stab and off you go. Don't have to worry about it making any noise. Quick, quiet, easy, simple, and cheap.


EDIT: The bowline is the best option as it's quick and easy to tie (you can tie it with your eyes shut once you know it) and it comes undone easily even after being loaded. which means you can adjust where the loop is and move the rope from tree to tree if necessary so you don't have to keep either cutting the rope or putting in new ones.
 
#25 ·
Image
These come in various sizes. I use one that is about 3" long. It's very handy. I clip it onto my bottom cam so that my arrows are up when lowering. I also use a fairly heavy chord which minimizes tangling problems.
 
#26 ·
paracord with a loop on the end... go under the limb, behind the vertical running main line, then loop or girth hitch around a stabilizer.

no caribeaner/metal needed. bow hangs vertically off the ground if its a preset stand.
 
#28 ·
Doyle's retractable webbing rope and just use the included attachment piece on the end and loop it around the limbs and through the riser. Easy-peasy.
 
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#29 ·
ryderofred said:
Doyles gear hoist is one of the better purchases I have made in the last few years. It lives on the waist band of my pack. So simple. Worth every ounce of extra weight.
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Mine is in the bottom of my dump pouch with a slit cut in it for the webbing to stick out. Keeps it from knocking into things and out of the way.
 
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#31 ·
Being I Hunt with an Oneida Compound Bow, I have a Knot tied at the End of the Rope and It hangs off my Ladder Stand Arm Rest it hangs about 5.5 ft off the ground when I get to 1 of my Ladder Stand I Slide the Knot between the string and Outboard Limb and Done. Climb into the Stand connect my Harness and then Pull up my Bow and hang it from the Bow Hanger and let the Rope fall. When I am ending that Hunt I pull the Rope Up, Hook the rope to my Bow and Let the Bow Back Down. Been doing that since 1995 when I got my first Oneida Aero Force. Now I hunt with 1 of my Oneida Lite Force Magnum Bows. Never need to make any Special Hook up devices. Guess using a Lever Action Bow is Different than a Wheel Compound.
LFM
 
#33 ·
Paracord and small carabiner is so simple, cheap and tough I can't imagine anything else. I have some that have been hanging over ten years and they are probably not half way through their life.
 
#34 ·
I just use a regular braided rope and I have a hard nylon clip on it that has a cinch grove that lets you adjust the length. That way I just wrap the cord around my bow holder and it's always there and ready to go.

I added an eye screw to hold the bow holder on instead of the regular screw that came with it. So I just clip the clip on that and then since the rope wraps differently each time I just take out the slack with by pulling the cord tight.

Image
 
#35 ·
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I use some 1/4" or 5/16" braided rope and just tie a loop on the end, then run it through my lower limbs and over my stabilizer. I don't like carabiners or anything attached to my cams. This rope trick has been working for many years. If you might think the rope would slip off the stabilizer, it's easy to make a slip knot and slide it over the stabilizer and cinch it down.
 
#37 ·
wango tango said:
This. The only difference is when I pull the bow up I put it in the top cam and when I’m letting the bow down, I put it in the bottom cam That way, the quiver will go through brush or a tree limbs easier without getting caught on an arrow.

Don’t overthink it. Paracord and a loop is all you need. Cheap, quiet, fast and easy.
Click to expand...
yep!
Don't EVER slip the rope between the cam and the string though. I've put quite a few strings back on derailed bows over the years for friends during season.:rolleyes:
 
#38 ·
I use the 24' dog leash from Harbor Freight @ $5.99 unless I use my climber then I just put it in the 3rd Hand Bow holder. I took the clip thing off the dog leash and tied a loop so I could girth hitch a twisty tie. I always attach the twisty tie to the bottom of the riser, never the cam or string. I always pull up and lower my bow from the bottom of the riser so I don't pull up or lower my bow putting pressure on the nock end of the arrows in my quiver.

I also have a super cheap and crappy (either an Apex or Allen) bow sling that covers both cams so they don't wallow in dirt. I wouldn't trust carrying it 2' with the strap and I don't attach to it to pull up or let down but it does keep the cams out of the dirt.
 
#40 ·
doublesteps.com

Doyle’s Huntin’ Hoist

The Huntin’ Hoist is a self retracting hunter’s rope for treestand hunters. Model #230 has 30 feet of braided rope and the 5w30 has 30 feet of 1/2″ nylon strap in its tough inject…
doublesteps.com doublesteps.com
 
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