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Ultimate trad hunting setup?

16K views 67 replies 39 participants last post by  Hoyt  
#1 ·
Hey guys! I have been shooting a bear alaskan & love the traditonal shooting! I still like my compound, but next year i want to hunt trad. So, what would be the ultimate setup from bow to arrows, to rest etc? Budget is secondary to performance, quality etc. My only requirement is a takedown bow so i can switch out limbs. I plan on whitetail/mule deer/pronghorn & bear hunting. Thanks so much for the input, i always get steered in the right direction here!
 
#2 ·
Really, I think, the only important factors are that you can hit where you want, within hunting distance, whatever that is, you get your arrows/bow/you tuned, and that you've got enough punch to slice a sharp broadhead through whatever it is you're taking. Something you can handle easily, like to shoot, and shoot well is all that matters, in my opinion. I defer to people who've taken bear to define the oomph required.

A cheapo Sage or Journey would work just fine. The hard part is getting an opportunity at a good shop.

I have a fairly expensive, fairly high performance traditional bow, but the only real justification for it is that it's a luxury item, and I like it. Something way cheaper would work just as well.
 
#5 ·
I'd use a 68" ILF target bow with a single pin sight set at the distance you think game will be shot at from. Gap or stack from there. Make the bow very heavy and steady, maybe a 12" stab.

This is what I hunted deer with for a dozen years from ground blinds. I thought it was perfect in every way. Didn't even camouflage the bow. Looked like I just stepped off the target range. Killed eleven deer in 12 seasons like this in Maine. Didn't get a shot the one year I didn't connect. It almost seemed too easy to me. Deer are very big targets.
 
#8 ·
Its more about the hours you want to put into practice more than anything else. Like others have said tune your set up and shoot. If you find you can't tune your bow, lower the weight and work on your form, this is where the practice comes in.
 
#10 ·
It's a personal choice, I like the versatility of my Dalaa. I can change grip draw weight, center shot, tiller and overall length. I can also add a sight.or a stabilizer. Arrows I have used fmjs for years, I just picked up axis and going to give them a shot. I run a 175 grain head.
 
#11 ·
I'd get the longest bow that will work for my most cramped shot. For me that would be 66".
I'd get a bow which stores a lot of energy and releases it efficiently when used with 10-12gpp arrows.
I'd get a bow with good geometry and mass to be stable.

Add all that up and I'm looking at a 21" metal riser with ILF longbow limbs, probably a Warf with Dryads if I'm going to be specific.

-Grant
 
#12 ·
everybody likes something different. thats why theres so many options. :) I LOVE my Toelke Chinook. I shoot 500 trad axis from it with a DRT broadhead. Will do everything I can do plus a lot more.
 
#15 ·
Grip, feel, length, looks, etc. is a very personal decision. I can shoot most any bow very accurate, but there are some bows that seem to "shoot themselves!" ILF bows give you endless options to make a bow perfect for you. I do not like the look of metal bows so my wooden bows are more trial and error. To me it comes down to the grip and riser geometry. A buddy of mine shoots competively on the same level as me. He is a very good shot. He loves and will only shoot his black widow bows. For me, after owning and trying literally hundreds of bows, I prefer a fox high sierra recurve. Is one better than the other, no! If you prefer the feel and looks of a custom wood bow, I would recommend you attend one of the bigger trad shoots/ trade shows to actually feel and shoot many different bowyers bows. ILF is much easier and less expensive to buy/ sell risers, limbs, and grips until you find that perfect "feel". good luck in your quest for the perfect bow
 
#16 ·
With lots of members on this forum, it would be most unexpected to find a few bowhunters lining up behind a single choice…or set of choices. But people use what works for/suits them…on an individual basis.

That said, I do have one that I have to call “Ultimate”…because it's a Bob Lee Ultimate Recurve. Although I’ve had it a couple of years, that bow has yet to go hunting. That’s partly because I’ve become good friends with another bow…and partly because it’s bit heavier than what’s needed for the local whitetails (…though I am planning on ordering other set of limbs).

But, more in the sense of “ultimate”, my plans for next season (which I’ll start working on soon) will be taking matters back to my roots…and using wooden arrows with Bear Razorheads for my big game hunting. To me, “the ultimate” involves having confidence in my ability/equipment…and a plan. Love it when a plan comes together.

On the other hand, "my" ultimate is to have many bows to choose from (back-up bow, then a back-up for the back-up, etc.)...and lots and lots of arrows. Enjoy, Rick.

pictured:
Bob Lee Ultimate
Brooks Hunter Recurve (my go-to bow)
Bear Super Kodiak (1968)
...and shooting off the shelf is a personal requirement...
 

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#59 ·
A modern black powder rifle and a bag of corn.

Sorry...couldn't help myself. :laugh:
MODERN ??? Can't stand to even LOOK at an in-line rifle (Shutter) !

Now maybe get a 50 cal FLINTLOCK, and you got something !!

(He DID say "TRAD HUNTING", right ???)

For archery, I'll use my Excel off the shelf with my BM 45 lb limbs and Eskimos.
 
#18 ·
I'll weigh in with my personal preferences.

I like hybrid longbows. Always been drawn to longbows, and after a year hunting with a recurve and having it get caught on every brush, twig, and rail on the stand I knew they just weren't quite my thing. I have nothing against them, just prefer hybrids. They're just as fast, easier to quiet, and I have yet to ruin a limb due to twist.

I'm also a big fan of economical bows. Same with vehicles. I like to see how much I can get from something that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (leaves more money for arrows or gas). Above $600 and you can get a really nice compound that would be more powerful and more accurate. For just over half that you can get a brand new ILF rig that will probably out shoot 90% of the other traditional bows out there. That's hard to beat.
 
#20 ·
Some risers are easier to build the shelf up on than others. Honestly, something like the NAP Centerest won't fail unless you try to break the thing, and only costs $20.

My comparison of prices was more so to point out that more money won't necessarily get you more bow. The big benefit to traditional is not having to spend an arm and a leg.
 
#22 ·
I'm with JP on this one.

I've been shooting and hunting (deer, bear, hogs, turkeys, and every damn porcupine I come across :wink:) with a TradTech Titan for 8 years now. I just can't imagine what more I could want in an all around hunting/3D/target bow.

There are those that will say a short riser does not make a good target bow, and I would agree. However, I'm not a serious target shooter and if I have to lean one way or the other, it would be to what I think makes a good hunting bow, not what makes a good target rig. All the target shooting that I do is done with the intention of preparing and practice for hunting, and at hunting distances.

You simply won't find a better quality metal ILF hunting riser, nor will you find better customer service that what Lancaster Archery (parent company of TradTech) will provide. The are simply the best in the business.

As to your question of shooting off the shelf or using a rest/plunger setup, that is really up to your personal preference. I shoot off the shelf with felt pads and have never once in 8 years of hunting have I had an issue. Hot, cold, rain, sleet, snow, and I've never had a pad come off unless I wanted to switch it.



They are quiet, can be tuned for great arrow flight, come in various shapes and sizes, and you can get a couple dozen of them for a few dollars.



The nice thing about the ILF system is that you can get very capable hunting limbs for less than a hundred bucks to well over a thousand.

The Titan is also available in three grip styles, low, medium and high wrist.



Or, if you're used to and like a more compound style grip, it's really easy to get (or make, the ones shown) a set of grip scales that will fit well. I ended up not liking them so I gave them away.



No, there is no "ultimate" setup for everyone, but I've shot a bunch of them in the last 8 years or so and I have yet to shoot one that I would trade my Titan for.

Good luck.

KPC
 
#23 ·
Here's mine - 40# Dorado, ugly and accurate! I crawl through the brush scooting it along on the quiver stalking mule deer and antelope. Bumping over rocks and sticks - would make me cringe to have a fancy wood bow and use it that hard. I do appreciate a nice wood bow, but I am a hunter first and a rugged bow that has a few bumps and bruises just seems right to me. Ultimate........eh maybe not, but I shot a nice string of 270+ NFAA rounds with it last summer, made for a very confident feeling in the field. The compound goes when I'm serious about elk.
 
#31 ·
No problem benzy. The felt ones with the rubbery layer are also much more dense than the others type.

Here is a little trick for you. Once I cut my pad in half and trim the edges the way I want them, I quickly pass them over a bic lighter. That kind of seals the fibers together to prevent them from "fuzzing" up with use.

KPC
 
#30 ·
If i was buying a new hunting bow right now, tradtech titan 17" w/ BF extremes or border hex7 if i really wanted to spend some cash.

Titan is a nice riser, I miss mine alot.
 
#32 ·
Another vote for the Trad Techs. the first two pics are a Titan III with medium recurve limbs.
the last one is an older Sky DX15 with Samick longbow limbs, It is an awesome shooter.
I don't think anyone can go wrong owning one of these.
It ultimately comes down to what makes you grin when you shoot it.
 

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